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Old 02-15-2015, 09:41 AM   #16021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micholix View Post
Fred, thank you, for the detailed answer/description!
I very much appreciate that!

I have to read through multible times, as my english knowlege is not the best...
I just do ask, or answer a fiew parts at this moment, as i have to read your post again, to get sure, i do understand correctly!

1. i do agree in the point of an stiff carbon chassis, including multible battery positions and flexibility, if whanted/needed at all, should be never from rear to front, just side to side ( i do have some ideas about that, that i have to integrate to my custom made chassis, if i can finde the time to cad it!?)
2. what do you think about an hinge pin holder, with different inserts, to adjust anti squad, or toa in, like on the xb4?(I know, this would make alot option again, but you dont have to make every time a new hinge pin holder!)

Edit: i was talking with Hupo Honigl last year at the EOS here in austria, and he also sayed, that for todays different tracks, you should have at least tree different cars/layouts, to get the best car for every type of track!
Did you mean this adjustable suspension hinge pin holder?
Durango made one last summer. Click on the link below.


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...P?I=LXEDLT&P=8
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Old 02-15-2015, 11:17 AM   #16022
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Yes, thats like what i ment!
But it would be nice to have inserts, where you could change toa as well, not just squat.

http://www.amain.com/xray-eccentric-...-set-2/p247359
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Old 02-15-2015, 12:54 PM   #16023
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Pretty stoked how this car is looking, I finally get to run it today! It's simple but it's clean
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Durango DEX210 Thread-img_0078.jpg  
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Old 02-16-2015, 02:49 PM   #16024
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Originally Posted by micholix View Post
Yes, thats like what i ment!
But it would be nice to have inserts, where you could change toa as well, not just squat.

http://www.amain.com/xray-eccentric-...-set-2/p247359
Not hard to do a 3D print of new inserts with the existing adjustable durango blocks.
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Old 02-17-2015, 03:35 AM   #16025
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Hi All looking at getting a DEX210v2 but just wondering if a v3 is due out or v4 even
any ideas?
What is the largest size stick pack that you can fit in them

Thanks
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Old 02-17-2015, 04:48 AM   #16026
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Hi All looking at getting a DEX210v2 but just wondering if a v3 is due out or v4 even
any ideas?
What is the largest size stick pack that you can fit in them

Thanks
Just the v2 is out for now, no need to really change it just yet unless the company updates the old cars flaws. You can run a Stick in RM form perfect and in MM it gets pretty tight. to tight for my liking so i run shorty
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Old 02-17-2015, 05:56 AM   #16027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbv20j View Post
Hi All looking at getting a DEX210v2 but just wondering if a v3 is due out or v4 even
any ideas?
What is the largest size stick pack that you can fit in them

Thanks
The buggy is designed to fit ROAR approved packs, Length: 139mm Width: 47mm Height: 25.1mm, but there is a bit of room for longer packs, even in MM configuration
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Old 02-17-2015, 07:10 AM   #16028
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This may sound counter but with what I know now I'd pick up a V1 instead of a V2 and then get V2 front arms. Change the chassis later if you want and go to the V2 gearbox if you break off the camber link mount in a crash. My car is a V1 that has had all of the V2 upgrades and now it's slowly going back to a V1. Actually, as it currently sits, my car is a V1 with V2 arms and gearbox.
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Old 02-17-2015, 08:38 AM   #16029
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Yesterday i was running my car MM with the shorty pack all the way back and it wouldnt turn, i moved it forward and it helped a little. Any advice?
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Old 02-17-2015, 08:44 AM   #16030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
This may sound counter but with what I know now I'd pick up a V1 instead of a V2 and then get V2 front arms. Change the chassis later if you want and go to the V2 gearbox if you break off the camber link mount in a crash. My car is a V1 that has had all of the V2 upgrades and now it's slowly going back to a V1. Actually, as it currently sits, my car is a V1 with V2 arms and gearbox.
V2 front arms only, what about the shocks?
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Old 02-17-2015, 08:56 AM   #16031
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If you run V2 arms on a V1 then you have to run V2 shocks as well since they are shorter. However, I'm working on a new front tower that will allow the use of V1 shocks with V2 arms. Dino just removes the bumpstops and runs V1 shocks on his but I personally won't remove them on mine. I don't think there is enough upward shock travel built into the car so I'm going to fix that on mine. I'm hoping Exotek will be willing to help out on this. So far, they seem to support the idea as long as it's something they think they can sell. I guess it could be considered a Type C front tower since it's different from the others.

I'm completely back to the V1 rear suspension geometry.
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Old 02-17-2015, 09:03 AM   #16032
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Quote:
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Yesterday i was running my car MM with the shorty pack all the way back and it wouldnt turn, i moved it forward and it helped a little. Any advice?

Really my would turn fine still in MM with the Shorty towards the rear . One thing that seemed to give my pretty good turn in with the 3 gear MM at least was running Ions (Clay) tires on the Front end with Typos on the Rear end/Chainlinks and Red Front springs .

If your running 4 gear MM you shouldn't have a problem with it not turning enough.

Try different Front tires first than Rear tires if that doesn't work than try the Red Front springs.
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Old 02-17-2015, 09:17 AM   #16033
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Why would there be a problem turning with MM3 but not with MM4. MM4 transfers more weight off of the wheels that steer. I currently have a shorty all the way back in MM3 and steering isn't a problem at all. If the car isn't turning well, it's a setup problem.
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Old 02-17-2015, 09:36 AM   #16034
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did a titanium tunbuckle conversion on my vehicle using the 50mm lunsford and 2 inch length turnbuckles and super duty cups, looks to work quite well and buying it seperate was pretty cheap as I found a 4 pack of the 2 inch turnbuckles cheap.

running mid motor full sized battery packs, main thing for me was clearance of the servo wire (using full sized servo too)
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Old 02-17-2015, 11:10 AM   #16035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
If you run V2 arms on a V1 then you have to run V2 shocks as well since they are shorter. However, I'm working on a new front tower that will allow the use of V1 shocks with V2 arms. Dino just removes the bumpstops and runs V1 shocks on his but I personally won't remove them on mine. I don't think there is enough upward shock travel built into the car so I'm going to fix that on mine. I'm hoping Exotek will be willing to help out on this. So far, they seem to support the idea as long as it's something they think they can sell. I guess it could be considered a Type C front tower since it's different from the others.

I'm completely back to the V1 rear suspension geometry.
The v2 shock body is 21.5mm with a 2mm bump stop.
The original front v1 shock body is 23mm. With a 2mm bump stop.

In stock form, this will not allow enough upward travel. Thus removing the bump stop, will give the extra 2mm required to be more like the shorter 21.5mm shock body with bump stop. And no it doesn't hit the top of the cap without the bump stop. I have tested this.

You got a 23mm body and a 44mm shaft on the v1 vs the V2 using a 21.5mm body and 42.5mm shaft.

I have several 210. I mainly run my v1 with v2 arms and shock towers. But I do have 2 other v2 kits, one in MM, and another in RM mode.

All I am saying is that it works. On certain conditions, I prefer the v1 shocks, other conditions I prefer to run the v2 up front with the v2 arms. I can get into depth about the differences of shock volume and my reasons for doing so. However, in short, the v2 shocks I find are more responsive on med to high bite, and the v1 shocks better for loose (low bite) and rougher track conditions.
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