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Old 02-11-2015, 03:44 PM   #15976
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Diggty Designs makes a normal v1 REAR tower and a "team edition" which under description is 4mm lower then stock
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Old 02-11-2015, 03:48 PM   #15977
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I have a v1 hybrid with the front and rear v2 arms, and i have a Tresrey carbon rear tower with a Exotek carbon front shock tower. Seems like a solid setup, anyone know if the v2 gearbox will go straight into the v1 car itself without the v2 rear deck parts?
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Old 02-11-2015, 04:40 PM   #15978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
fredswain:

In your option what parts do you recommend to have then from both platforms? I got kind of a hybrid myself here but its mainly a V1 with stuff.
Chassis: whichever you want. I'd pretty much universally recommend against the a standard Dimec chassis. If you want to go that route, get the Dimec20. I'm running the V1 aluminum chassis at the moment for high grip on a track where a 13.5T motor is more than enough.

Gearbox: V2 with longer outdrives. Gear diff for carpet or blue groove, ball diff anywhere else.

Rear suspension: V1 shocks and tower. V1 or V2 arms. I personally only run shocks in front of the arms. I don't like them behind. If you do, use V2 arms.

Front suspension: V2. For now although run what you've got. If you run V1 arms, you've got to run V1 shocks. If you've got V2 arms, you've got to run V2 shocks. The only difference in towers is that the V2 mount the shocks further back so you need to turn the shock bottoms around since they are offset. V2 oriented may result in seeing link hitting the springs though so if you run V2 front tower, use the Durango or AE offset ball cups on the outside steering link to help. If my suspicion is correct then my recommendation will be V2 front arms with V1 front shocks and a new, as yet to be made, shock tower.

Everything else is up to you.
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Old 02-11-2015, 04:59 PM   #15979
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Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
Chassis: whichever you want. I'd pretty much universally recommend against the a standard Dimec chassis. If you want to go that route, get the Dimec20. I'm running the V1 aluminum chassis at the moment for high grip on a track where a 13.5T motor is more than enough.

Gearbox: V2 with longer outdrives. Gear diff for carpet or blue groove, ball diff anywhere else.

Rear suspension: V1 shocks and tower. V1 or V2 arms. I personally only run shocks in front of the arms. I don't like them behind. If you do, use V2 arms.

Front suspension: V2. For now although run what you've got. If you run V1 arms, you've got to run V1 shocks. If you've got V2 arms, you've got to run V2 shocks. The only difference in towers is that the V2 mount the shocks further back so you need to turn the shock bottoms around since they are offset. V2 oriented may result in seeing link hitting the springs though so if you run V2 front tower, use the Durango or AE offset ball cups on the outside steering link to help. If my suspicion is correct then my recommendation will be V2 front arms with V1 front shocks and a new, as yet to be made, shock tower.

Everything else is up to you.
Sounds really thought out, after going through to forum and reading the differences this setup seems to be just right
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Old 02-11-2015, 05:08 PM   #15980
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cool thanks. I run outdoors on really loose stuff that is very ruff so have the dime chassis, mainly as that is what came with it.

Can you elaborate on your reasoning on why you don't like it?
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Old 02-11-2015, 05:29 PM   #15981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 71schaeffer View Post
I have a v1 hybrid with the front and rear v2 arms, and i have a Tresrey carbon rear tower with a Exotek carbon front shock tower. Seems like a solid setup, anyone know if the v2 gearbox will go straight into the v1 car itself without the v2 rear deck parts?
IF running a MM configuration it will drop in, for RM you will need the type B brace TD320270 and top deck TD320269 or cut the swaybar mount off the v1 top deck.
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Old 02-11-2015, 06:38 PM   #15982
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IF running a MM configuration it will drop in, for RM you will need the type B brace TD320270 and top deck TD320269 or cut the swaybar mount off the v1 top deck.
Alright thank you!
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Old 02-11-2015, 07:03 PM   #15983
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
cool thanks. I run outdoors on really loose stuff that is very ruff so have the dime chassis, mainly as that is what came with it.

Can you elaborate on your reasoning on why you don't like it?
I've never bought into the philosophy of chassis flex for low grip. Chassis flex is a bandaid for poor tuning. Chassis flex in essence turns the chassis into another spring since everything had a natural resonant frequency. We have a suspension at each end of this spring. Even if we know how our suspension is tuned, we don't know what the chassis rate flexes at so it's really just a guessing game. I want a rigid chassis. I'll tune the suspension to do it's job. Chassis flex is something I never use as a tuning aid, regardless of how many companies or pros do otherwise. The standard Dimec chassis is just too soft.
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Old 02-11-2015, 07:06 PM   #15984
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It just occurred to me that the suspension travel limitation may be so the chassis sides don't drag in hard corners. The V2 chassis is a bit wider than the V1. It's wider than any other car. That too may be a design issue to address. Fortunately different bolt on sides might fix that. In really talking myself into that 22 2.0 more and more.
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Old 02-12-2015, 08:36 AM   #15985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
Chassis: whichever you want. I'd pretty much universally recommend against the a standard Dimec chassis. If you want to go that route, get the Dimec20. I'm running the V1 aluminum chassis at the moment for high grip on a track where a 13.5T motor is more than enough.

Gearbox: V2 with longer outdrives. Gear diff for carpet or blue groove, ball diff anywhere else.

Rear suspension: V1 shocks and tower. V1 or V2 arms. I personally only run shocks in front of the arms. I don't like them behind. If you do, use V2 arms.

Front suspension: V2. For now although run what you've got. If you run V1 arms, you've got to run V1 shocks. If you've got V2 arms, you've got to run V2 shocks. The only difference in towers is that the V2 mount the shocks further back so you need to turn the shock bottoms around since they are offset. V2 oriented may result in seeing link hitting the springs though so if you run V2 front tower, use the Durango or AE offset ball cups on the outside steering link to help. If my suspicion is correct then my recommendation will be V2 front arms with V1 front shocks and a new, as yet to be made, shock tower.

Everything else is up to you.

Low to med grip, the Dimec +8 is preferred. The extra length and a bit more flex makes the car more forgiving and easier to drive. For high grip, its a toss up. You can go with the standard or the +8 aluminum. Then again Jorn did with almost all the EOS racers with a Mid-Motor +8 Aluminum chassis on carpet and TQ the 2wd buggy at the worlds with a mid motor +8.

My rear motor is basically a RTR with the v2 arms and shock towers. And I ran a whole season with the v2 front arms and v1 shocks. You just need to remove the rubber grommet at the bottom of the shock. I put the upgraded to composite gear diff in my v2 (as my V2 is mainly a high bite indoor car) and put the ball diff from my v2 in to my hybird RTR which I mainly run outdoors.
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Old 02-12-2015, 11:55 AM   #15986
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@Dino: are you running V2 shocks and tower in the rear?
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Old 02-12-2015, 12:08 PM   #15987
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Some driver or drivers clearly liked the V2 geometry better or else they wouldn't have released it. I look at it this way. If you get the geometry right, everything else is just tuning. If you've got too much shock travel, in either direction, you can always take some away. If you don't have enough, you might be have problems.
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Old 02-12-2015, 03:35 PM   #15988
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Quote:
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@Dino: are you running V2 shocks and tower in the rear?
V1 shocks, v2 towers, with v2 lower shock collars and with the rubber grommet stopper removed. As I find that the rubber grommet limits suspension travel and won't allow you to fully compress the suspension, plus the extra travel helps with the bumps and ruts as it unsettles the car less. Imagine landing and it hits the grommet, it will really upset the car. Let the shocks do the work without the obstruction.

The good part of the v2 front arms are that the gull wing arms don't dig into the ground. Also the flat arms seems to make the steering smoother and more progressive.
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Old 02-12-2015, 04:34 PM   #15989
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The shape of the arms had nothing to do with cornering. I laugh at the B5 people that someone think it does. The only reason you'd see a difference on a 210 has everything to do with the shock angles. Don't think of a shock angle in reference to the chassis but rather in reference to the arm itself. Specifically it's mounting point on the arm in relation to the inner hinge pin. In relation to these points, a shock mounted on a gullwing arm effectively leans in more than one on a straight arm since the mounting point on the gullwing arm is lower than the plane through the inner and outer hinge pins. You will have a lower effective wheel rate with a gullwing. The B5 designer recognized this by offering a shock tower that is wider fire the gullwing arms and narrower fit the straight arms. This keeps the effective angle the same. It is then the slight change in front center of gravity from current shock locations in relation to the chassis that account for handling differences and had nothing to do with the actual arm shape.
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Old 02-12-2015, 04:42 PM   #15990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
The shape of the arms had nothing to do with cornering. I laugh at the B5 people that someone think it does. The only reason you'd see a difference on a 210 has everything to do with the shock angles. Don't think of a shock angle in reference to the chassis but rather in reference to the arm itself. Specifically it's mounting point on the arm in relation to the inner hinge pin. In relation to these points, a shock mounted on a gullwing arm effectively leans in more than one on a straight arm since the mounting point on the gullwing arm is lower than the plane through the inner and outer hinge pins. You will have a lower effective wheel rate with a gullwing. The B5 designer recognized this by offering a shock tower that is wider fire the gullwing arms and narrower fit the straight arms. This keeps the effective angle the same. It is then the slight change in front center of gravity from current shock locations in relation to the chassis that account for handling differences and had nothing to do with the actual arm shape.
That is correct. I just tried to sum it up without being all technical. But the gullwing does also scrape the ground a lot more as well.
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