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Old 02-10-2015, 06:48 PM   #15961
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What is your rear tower and arm shock locations
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Old 02-10-2015, 06:54 PM   #15962
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.... Personally I love the ACER ceramic set, which works for the V1 and V2, but it is a little more expensive than just a standard replacement set. They also make a polyamide set for less. ..
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Thanks! I found some FastEddy bearings for 22$ which is a great deal, ill buy 2 sets just in case
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I've heard great things in this thread about fast eddy bearings. On my original V1 I pulled the inside seals in the transmission so free them up and also make them easier to clean. They were actually pretty decent this way.
Acer vs. FastEddy vs. anything else.... do any of these bearings keep dirt out any better? That's really my biggest complaint about bearings. I would be willing to pay more for bearings that have a better seal.
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Old 02-10-2015, 06:58 PM   #15963
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Agreed, I am pretty excited about my car coming! I just gotta go through it since it is used and replace any worn parts
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Old 02-10-2015, 07:38 PM   #15964
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Its moving the rear hubs forward... Has nothing to do with actual chassis length.
mistake me if I'm wrong, its the 'chassis' which is longer on the V2? not arms, hubs or pivots which made the current car wheelbase longer
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Old 02-10-2015, 07:47 PM   #15965
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Correct. The V2 chassis is +8mm over the V1 chassis. On each you can adjust the wheelbase a bit by moving the rear hubs forward or backward. I personally run them all the way back. Even in mid motor. I only care about geometry so I look for my drive shafts to be inline rather than swept forward.
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Old 02-10-2015, 07:47 PM   #15966
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I am needing to update the type a chassis. I race on med grip clay and high grip carpet. Not sure which chassis to go with the dimec, dimec 20, or the aluminum all plus 8...maybe even the plus 11 aluminum. Any suggestions

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Old 02-10-2015, 09:18 PM   #15967
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I decided to take the 210 out on the street a bit tonight. I really shouldn't do that! I accidentally clipped a curb going around a street corner at nearly full speed on an 8.5T motor. It cartwheeled pretty impressively, strangely enough not even scratching the shock tower tops. The right rear arm wasn't so lucky. Part of the arm was attached to the car, part to the shock bottom, and part ended up in the street. I lost my shims too. The driveshaft was fine. I've got to give credit where it's due, the Lunsford Punisher turnbuckles and the 22 ball cups didn't budge. The arm is weaker. Fortunately I've got a set of V1 arms as spares so it's fixed right up. The only difference I see with the V1 vs V2 rear arms is the option to run the shocks on the rear with the V2. I don't so it doesn't really matter which set I stock.
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Old 02-11-2015, 08:31 AM   #15968
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How is the v2 fairing on clay tracks? looking to get back into it and my local track is full of kyosho, ae, and tlr cars
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Old 02-11-2015, 08:38 AM   #15969
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Works great on mine.... Currently running stock 17.5 with a shorty, no wt. I do not have any traction issues. I've owned the B5m and Rb6 and prefer the v2 over both..
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Old 02-11-2015, 08:57 AM   #15970
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I race mine on clay tracks here in SoCal and it's solid. Durango is a minority around here as well. Most everyone is driving AE, TLR, Kyosho....
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Old 02-11-2015, 09:18 AM   #15971
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The traction at our new indoor clay track has really picked up. Everyone runs clay compounds here and the tires sometimes squeal in corners. I still prefer the old days of loam but it's a beautiful facility so it is what it is. Grip certainly isn't an issue so MM3 should work just fine after all. The thin layer of dust that was killing grip is gone.

I've been playing around more and more with the suspension and I am now to the point where I firmly believe that Durango made a mistake with the V2 suspension geometry. Specifically the shocks. I do like the flat arms up front and the rear arms didn't change the geometry so either/or back there. The suspension just doesn't have enough travel in compression. It is "almost" enough for just flat level with the ground travel but in corner is where it really has a problem since the shocks bottom easily when leaning. If you run on high grip and run a fairly low ride height, you may find that in a corner the car just can't lean very much before the shocks bottom. When this happens, grip just goes away and you'll be chasing setups, never identifying the true problem.

I'm going back to the V1 rear shock tower and shock lengths to get back some of that travel. I'm also going back to the V1 front shocks but am going to be forced to make a new shock tower that raises the upper points a bit. This is really what Durango should have done instead of limiting the shock lengths. I still defend only running the HRC rear block.

Interestingly enough, with traction no longer a problem, I'm actually going to try running a stick pack again inline in MM3 mode. The nice thing is that I've balanced my shocks with a shorty inline and a full stick doesn't seem to mess up the balance at all.

The more I work on this car, the more I'm finding that I'd be happiest if there was a hybrid of the V1 and V2 cars. Basically a V1.5 that is a V1 with V2 arms, a slightly taller front tower, and a V2 gearbox.
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Old 02-11-2015, 02:26 PM   #15972
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I think you may be on to something fred as usual
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Old 02-11-2015, 02:35 PM   #15973
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The traction at our new indoor clay track has really picked up. Everyone runs clay compounds here and the tires sometimes squeal in corners. I still prefer the old days of loam but it's a beautiful facility so it is what it is. Grip certainly isn't an issue so MM3 should work just fine after all. The thin layer of dust that was killing grip is gone.

I've been playing around more and more with the suspension and I am now to the point where I firmly believe that Durango made a mistake with the V2 suspension geometry. Specifically the shocks. I do like the flat arms up front and the rear arms didn't change the geometry so either/or back there. The suspension just doesn't have enough travel in compression. It is "almost" enough for just flat level with the ground travel but in corner is where it really has a problem since the shocks bottom easily when leaning. If you run on high grip and run a fairly low ride height, you may find that in a corner the car just can't lean very much before the shocks bottom. When this happens, grip just goes away and you'll be chasing setups, never identifying the true problem.

I'm going back to the V1 rear shock tower and shock lengths to get back some of that travel. I'm also going back to the V1 front shocks but am going to be forced to make a new shock tower that raises the upper points a bit. This is really what Durango should have done instead of limiting the shock lengths. I still defend only running the HRC rear block.

Interestingly enough, with traction no longer a problem, I'm actually going to try running a stick pack again inline in MM3 mode. The nice thing is that I've balanced my shocks with a shorty inline and a full stick doesn't seem to mess up the balance at all.

The more I work on this car, the more I'm finding that I'd be happiest if there was a hybrid of the V1 and V2 cars. Basically a V1.5 that is a V1 with V2 arms, a slightly taller front tower, and a V2 gearbox.



I did notice that with the MM on this buggy i defietly needed to change more than a few things when the traction got lower . Dint know it had something to do with the suspension geometry though.
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Old 02-11-2015, 03:17 PM   #15974
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It's just a hunch. I've got a new V1 rear tower on order since I cannibalized mine for a test. I've got an Exotek front tower coming, mostly for the camber link mounts. I'll make the new front tower geometry and test it out. I'll report my findings when I get there.
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Old 02-11-2015, 03:33 PM   #15975
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fredswain:

In your option what parts do you recommend to have then from both platforms? I got kind of a hybrid myself here but its mainly a V1 with stuff.
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