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Old 02-10-2015, 08:58 AM   #15946
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Anyone know were to get bearing kits for the v1?
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:09 AM   #15947
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Quite a few aftermarket kits available. Personally I love the ACER ceramic set, which works for the V1 and V2, but it is a little more expensive than just a standard replacement set. They also make a polyamide set for less. I picked up my ceramics on a discount sale or coupon for around 67 shipped. Polyamide set is 49.99 on Tower:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCVUA&P=7
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Old 02-10-2015, 10:17 AM   #15948
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I've noticed that when using the Exotek LRC setup and 0 anti squat this really limits the amount of droop available. For now I am using the 1.5 degree shim so regain some of this droop. I am using the V2 chassis and this is actually a full V2 car. I've noticed this with the alum chassis as well but I am currently testing the graphite chassis from exotek. Has anyone else noticed this? I don't want to shave the droop points off completely as it's nice to have the screws to adjust. Thanks in advance
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Old 02-10-2015, 10:48 AM   #15949
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
Quite a few aftermarket kits available. Personally I love the ACER ceramic set, which works for the V1 and V2, but it is a little more expensive than just a standard replacement set. They also make a polyamide set for less. I picked up my ceramics on a discount sale or coupon for around 67 shipped. Polyamide set is 49.99 on Tower:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCVUA&P=7
Thanks! I found some FastEddy bearings for 22$ which is a great deal, ill buy 2 sets just in case
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:11 AM   #15950
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I've heard great things in this thread about fast eddy bearings. On my original V1 I pulled the inside seals in the transmission so free them up and also make them easier to clean. They were actually pretty decent this way.
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Old 02-10-2015, 04:46 PM   #15951
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Default Mid mount wheelbase.

If a shorter wheelbase car puts more weight onto its rear tyres, then wouldn't the shorter V1 chassis be more suitable for med traction tracks?

I've got my RM3 working ok, but most guys have gone mid mount at one of the two tracks I race on.
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Old 02-10-2015, 05:17 PM   #15952
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Its moving the rear hubs forward... Has nothing to do with actual chassis length.
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Old 02-10-2015, 05:25 PM   #15953
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With the Mid motor moving the Rear hubs forward does help with traction for sure .
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Old 02-10-2015, 05:27 PM   #15954
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I always hear that mid motor is better on higher traction bah . Really it depends on what kind of driving you like RM3 work fine on them ive tried them on high and lower traction its how its setup .
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Old 02-10-2015, 05:34 PM   #15955
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No way a rear motor can match corner speed of a mid.... On high traction.
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Old 02-10-2015, 05:36 PM   #15956
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Quote:
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No way a rear motor can match corner speed of a mid.... On high traction.


Oh i know that . I just don't the way mid motor drives not my thing the tracks i go to none of them would i call actual high traction more like med/low to me.

Honestly though i drove a B4.1 of course with the Rear motor and i was keeping up with the guys driving mid motor .
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Old 02-10-2015, 05:39 PM   #15957
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thinking of picking up a low profile servo as I run mid motor right now and a full sized pack, so the servo wire kind of gets in the way of the battery.

was thinking a low profile one woudl be shorter, and hence I could run the wire under to the wall opening.

Any suggestions on some low profile servos. No xpert however.
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Old 02-10-2015, 06:00 PM   #15958
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
Oh i know that . I just don't the way mid motor drives not my thing the tracks i go to none of them would i call actual high traction more like med/low to me.

Honestly though i drove a B4.1 of course with the Rear motor and i was keeping up with the guys driving mid motor .
I've kept up with and beaten a handful of mid motor guys on the local dirt and clay tracks. Just have a shorty pack slid all the way against the servo.

But I did just get and race for the first time a mid motor schumacher SV this past weekend, but with the weight as far back as mid motor can go. It turns better but is unsettled and not as easy to drive when it gets loose for sure.
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Old 02-10-2015, 06:11 PM   #15959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
I've noticed that when using the Exotek LRC setup and 0 anti squat this really limits the amount of droop available. For now I am using the 1.5 degree shim so regain some of this droop. I am using the V2 chassis and this is actually a full V2 car. I've noticed this with the alum chassis as well but I am currently testing the graphite chassis from exotek. Has anyone else noticed this? I don't want to shave the droop points off completely as it's nice to have the screws to adjust. Thanks in advance
As the the exotek site, you need to dremel the arms. You want them to be limited by the shocks, not the chassis with the droop screws all the way out
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Old 02-10-2015, 06:22 PM   #15960
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Originally Posted by rc_dude View Post
I've kept up with and beaten a handful of mid motor guys on the local dirt and clay tracks. Just have a shorty pack slid all the way against the servo.

But I did just get and race for the first time a mid motor schumacher SV this past weekend, but with the weight as far back as mid motor can go. It turns better but is unsettled and not as easy to drive when it gets loose for sure.



The mid motor does turn better but when you loose traction especially on the exit of the turns there hard to drive. I had my Rear hubs forward and the Shorty pack all the toward the Rear. Using the brakes even with them turn down are pretty strong with Mid motor .

Im going to try out the Rear motor on this buggy though i have the Brass weight under the servo also should help with turning on the RM3 .
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