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Old 01-25-2015, 06:18 PM   #15841
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Originally Posted by Tdub77 View Post
has anyone tried the b5 front axle setup on the dex210?

Tim
Yep, just get the axle, 12mm pin, desc210 front spindles, and b5 front hex and it works like a dream!
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Old 01-25-2015, 08:22 PM   #15842
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I'm thinking about grabbing a set of B5 castor blocks and spindles tomorrow. The castor blocks come with a 0 degree insert for the 25* kickup, and you should be able to get more adjustment out of the spindle that way too. Ill compare the two and let you guys know how it goes, if anyone has done it already please chime in before i spend the money.
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Old 01-25-2015, 10:32 PM   #15843
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I went to the open house for our brand new indoor 1/10 track today. It's hard packed clay but still be moist for races. After watching a few cars going around, including a 22 2.0 running in mid motor with the weight on the rear, I can already tell that my 210 is going to have rear grip issues in mid motor. It really needs side by side saddles. I'm setting up an RC10 for this track. It's obviously rear motor but I've reduced the front kick to 20 and am running a new 3D printed front end with longer arms designed to keep the roll center the same as the rear arms with suspension travel. Even though it's rear motor, I'm going to run a saddle pack. I honestly feel that car is going to be better than the 210 unless I run RM. I've reworked the geometry on that car so it isn't stock. We'll see. The track opens in 3 weeks to the public but I won't be free for at least 3 weeks after that. Once I get out there I'll start working on 210 design changes. I'll offer them like I already do my RC10 parts.
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:36 PM   #15844
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Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
I went to the open house for our brand new indoor 1/10 track today. It's hard packed clay but still be moist for races. After watching a few cars going around, including a 22 2.0 running in mid motor with the weight on the rear, I can already tell that my 210 is going to have rear grip issues in mid motor. It really needs side by side saddles. I'm setting up an RC10 for this track. It's obviously rear motor but I've reduced the front kick to 20 and am running a new 3D printed front end with longer arms designed to keep the roll center the same as the rear arms with suspension travel. Even though it's rear motor, I'm going to run a saddle pack. I honestly feel that car is going to be better than the 210 unless I run RM. I've reworked the geometry on that car so it isn't stock. We'll see. The track opens in 3 weeks to the public but I won't be free for at least 3 weeks after that. Once I get out there I'll start working on 210 design changes. I'll offer them like I already do my RC10 parts.



Hum really i know when i ran this buggy with the 4 gear mid motor on higher grip clay when it was moist it handle pretty good for me grip wise and handling . This is with the Shorty pack and the foam pads in the center front and rear .

Now if the clay is kind of dry or just barely moist the pack needs to be placed toward the Rear for sure in MM on this buggy. But i agree the saddle pack could help a lot when the grip is lower with Mid motor .
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Old 01-26-2015, 08:55 AM   #15845
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The track is brand new so no one even knows what tires will ultimately work best. That's why they are pushing back the first race for 3 weeks. They are trying to let the track wear in to get consistent. Only then will we know for sure. Right now the MM cars are lacking rear end grip on corner entry where a RM car doesn't. That may change. The more and more I develop my tuning, the more I think RM may not be the design of the past that many think it is.
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Old 01-26-2015, 09:00 AM   #15846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
I went to the open house for our brand new indoor 1/10 track today. It's hard packed clay but still be moist for races. After watching a few cars going around, including a 22 2.0 running in mid motor with the weight on the rear, I can already tell that my 210 is going to have rear grip issues in mid motor. It really needs side by side saddles. I'm setting up an RC10 for this track. It's obviously rear motor but I've reduced the front kick to 20 and am running a new 3D printed front end with longer arms designed to keep the roll center the same as the rear arms with suspension travel. Even though it's rear motor, I'm going to run a saddle pack. I honestly feel that car is going to be better than the 210 unless I run RM. I've reworked the geometry on that car so it isn't stock. We'll see. The track opens in 3 weeks to the public but I won't be free for at least 3 weeks after that. Once I get out there I'll start working on 210 design changes. I'll offer them like I already do my RC10 parts.
This is interesting... I have my DEX setup as mid motor and I actually slide the shorty pack TO THE FRONT sometimes. I still believe the DEX is the best tunable car out there where I am confident that I can tune it for any condition. I thought my DEX used to have traction issues until I learned to start playing around with the rear toe/kick up and rear camber combinations. I really like this car and no way in hell that I would trade it for the TLR.

Ironically, I have an RC10 also and am running a full size pack going down the middle. I haven't completely set it up yet. But it will be interesting to see how it runs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
Hum really i know when i ran this buggy with the 4 gear mid motor on higher grip clay when it was moist it handle pretty good for me grip wise and handling . This is with the Shorty pack and the foam pads in the center front and rear .

Now if the clay is kind of dry or just barely moist the pack needs to be placed toward the Rear for sure in MM on this buggy. But i agree the saddle pack could help a lot when the grip is lower with Mid motor .
If grip is really an issue, then I'd change it to RM3. But I haven't had to do that so long as there is a "blue groove" on the track.
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Old 01-27-2015, 07:21 AM   #15847
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Quick question. Took the gear diff apart and put 10k fluid in it as recommended and put it back together. The spur gear seems to have quite a bit of resistance now. Is that normal? I wish I had tried to turn the spur before I took it apart and changed fluids so I would have a frame of reference.
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:54 AM   #15848
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Try loosening the the screws that threes into the motor plate, sometimes if they're too tight they'll bind
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Old 01-27-2015, 11:39 AM   #15849
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1 View Post
Try loosening the the screws that threes into the motor plate, sometimes if they're too tight they'll bind
I did that and it definitely helped. It just seems to have a ton of rolling resistance. Set it on the ground and push it and it just has a ton of resistance. I dont even know where it could be coming from.
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Old 01-27-2015, 11:45 AM   #15850
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Have you tried taking off the spur assembly and then free rolling it?
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Old 01-27-2015, 12:01 PM   #15851
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Yes, it doesnt appear to have anything to do with that, seems more internal.
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Old 01-27-2015, 12:03 PM   #15852
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you may want to pull out the transmission then at that point.

I would confirm your build of the transmission, make sure the components spin freely from step to step.

I know one that tripped me up in that department was orientation of the gear diff inside the case. I don't know if it matters, but when I had the diff screws facing one side versus the other, it spun more freely one way versus the other.
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Old 01-27-2015, 12:11 PM   #15853
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I had the same problem with no solution available in 4 gear. Even with a new gearbox it would not turn smoothly. Switched to 3 gear layout and it was fine... so it is something with the gears I believe.

Turns out I will be going 3 gear so it is a non issue to me at the moment but the best information I could dig up for the problem was to just run it and it will break in.
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Old 01-27-2015, 12:11 PM   #15854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
you may want to pull out the transmission then at that point.

I would confirm your build of the transmission, make sure the components spin freely from step to step.

I know one that tripped me up in that department was orientation of the gear diff inside the case. I don't know if it matters, but when I had the diff screws facing one side versus the other, it spun more freely one way versus the other.
I think it was a combination of a few things. Much smoother now. I think I had the slipper a little too tight and the gear mesh was a little tight, plus those case screws were a little tight. Adjusted all of that and its much freer now. Now when pushed it rolls a few feet.
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Old 01-27-2015, 12:15 PM   #15855
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good stuff glad it cleared up.

Last thing I thought of was maybe a burr in one of the gears.
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