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Old 01-12-2015, 02:14 PM   #15751
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I have been struggling to get my buggy to steer. Any set up change I made had no effect on the car. I added some weight to the nose of the car and now it acts like a well tuned car. Is this an indication to a bed set up, Bad build, incorrectly billed shocks?
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Old 01-12-2015, 03:14 PM   #15752
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Alright i raced this buggy with the 4 gear MM on this track and i changed more than a few things to get more rear grip on the exit of the turns . I wasn't that hard on the throttle and it would get out of shape, i had to really baby it on throttle to square up to some jumps. It just was to inconstant sometimes it would hook up good the other times it would get out of shape.

Pretty much wanted to throw the buggy against the wall . The 4 gear MM works great on the pure clay tracks though on this buggy.


I do know that Revolution rc sells a weight that is 30 G that bolts on to the Rear transmission to help on lower to Med traction maybe i should try it ?

Go with lighter shock oil on the Rear or especially go with 3000w diff oil in the gear diff ?


So i tried out a Kyosho buggy with the Rear motor setup with a guy i was racing with and it felt much more constant and more stable . Grated he was running a ball diff the only thing it need was a lead weight on the Front end to get more steering in the tighter turns.

So i may try the rear motor with the 3 gears or 4 gears at this track.


Here is the track its a clay and mixed soil .
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Durango DEX210 Thread-10931314_10203494834436780_3409705610205985646_n.jpg  
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Old 01-12-2015, 03:15 PM   #15753
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Originally Posted by ohiostatechamp View Post
I have been struggling to get my buggy to steer. Any set up change I made had no effect on the car. I added some weight to the nose of the car and now it acts like a well tuned car. Is this an indication to a bed set up, Bad build, incorrectly billed shocks?


How much weight on the lead weight do you have ?
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Old 01-12-2015, 03:58 PM   #15754
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Originally Posted by ohiostatechamp View Post
I have been struggling to get my buggy to steer. Any set up change I made had no effect on the car. I added some weight to the nose of the car and now it acts like a well tuned car. Is this an indication to a bed set up, Bad build, incorrectly billed shocks?
I haven't messed with my 210 much, but from other cars I have driven you could try a few different things. You could move your shock position in on the arms, you could change the kick up at the castor block, you could also take the trailing out of the steering spindle and go with a 2mm trailing or 0. The biggest things I have done to try to change things is my springs. Maybe go with a lighter front spring and a heavier rear. it might make the rear end a little more loose but the car will rotate quicker. Just a few things to try.
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Old 01-12-2015, 04:15 PM   #15755
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If the springs/piston/oil combination don't result in balance front to rear, changing anything else is like chasing your tail. If you find an improvement, it'll probably be trading off something else. Adding weight is usually a bandaid for poor tuning ability but it does have it's place in extreme situations. If you can't get your car to turn, the first thought should never revolve around weight. Randomly moving shocks in and out or trying different oils, etc is also poor tuning method. Tuning is actually quite easy. Time consuming, but easy. You've just got to know the technique.
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:14 PM   #15756
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I just received the 50 gram weight for mine.

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Old 01-12-2015, 07:51 PM   #15757
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Here is the set up that I have right now. Not sure how well it will work yet.


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Old 01-12-2015, 08:07 PM   #15758
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Here is the set up that I have right now. Not sure how well it will work yet.



I may try that setup you have maybe on low traction it could help with the kind if dirt I was talking about indoors . Except use 3000w or 2000w diff oil .

Still might get the rear weight but that would be a last kind of thing if nothing else works . Only thing is I have the plus 8 aluminum V2 chassis on my and Shorty packs.
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Old 01-13-2015, 02:34 AM   #15759
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How much weight on the lead weight do you have ?
I started with 24 grams. I removed weight until the push came back. 10 grams is what I ended with.
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Old 01-13-2015, 07:22 AM   #15760
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I just received the 50 gram weight for mine.

Instead of using the weight why not just use rear motor setup. The motor already has weight to it.
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Old 01-13-2015, 07:52 AM   #15761
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
Alright i raced this buggy with the 4 gear MM on this track and i changed more than a few things to get more rear grip on the exit of the turns . I wasn't that hard on the throttle and it would get out of shape, i had to really baby it on throttle to square up to some jumps. It just was to inconstant sometimes it would hook up good the other times it would get out of shape.

Pretty much wanted to throw the buggy against the wall . The 4 gear MM works great on the pure clay tracks though on this buggy.


I do know that Revolution rc sells a weight that is 30 G that bolts on to the Rear transmission to help on lower to Med traction maybe i should try it ?

Go with lighter shock oil on the Rear or especially go with 3000w diff oil in the gear diff ?


So i tried out a Kyosho buggy with the Rear motor setup with a guy i was racing with and it felt much more constant and more stable . Grated he was running a ball diff the only thing it need was a lead weight on the Front end to get more steering in the tighter turns.

So i may try the rear motor with the 3 gears or 4 gears at this track.


Here is the track its a clay and mixed soil .
If the MM works well on pure clay tracks and you are struggling with grip on your current track. Just go back to Rear motor mode.
Our tracks are mixed as well and we hardly ever run mid motors unless it's a major trophy race, and even still, its a toss up. Rear motor felt more consistent in the morning and evenings, while the mid was quicker in the middle of the afternoon. As you stated that the Kyosho felt more consistent and stable. Instead of trying to get frustrated with the car, and chasing setup, I just ran rear motor. Less fuss, and I didn't need to change setup as much.
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:04 AM   #15762
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If the MM works well on pure clay tracks and you are struggling with grip on your current track. Just go back to Rear motor mode.
Our tracks are mixed as well and we hardly ever run mid motors unless it's a major trophy race, and even still, its a toss up. Rear motor felt more consistent in the morning and evenings, while the mid was quicker in the middle of the afternoon. As you stated that the Kyosho felt more consistent and stable. Instead of trying to get frustrated with the car, and chasing setup, I just ran rear motor. Less fuss, and I didn't need to change setup as much.



yea that's what im likely to do just go to Rear motor when i go back to that track. I know most guys run the B5M with the 4 gear mid motor how they get it to hook up on that surface i have no clue.
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:34 AM   #15763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohiostatechamp View Post
I have been struggling to get my buggy to steer. Any set up change I made had no effect on the car. I added some weight to the nose of the car and now it acts like a well tuned car. Is this an indication to a bed set up, Bad build, incorrectly billed shocks?
Are you running a full sized servo or a low profile servo up front? Is your battery full forward or full rear? Are you running a full sized pack or a shorty lipo? Are you running Rear motor or Mid Motor?


The DEX210 has a weight thing under the servo as a add on. Most of the time the car is setup to push which makes it easier for a novice to drive, but the add-ons are available to balance out the car. Adding some weight in the front keeps the nose down under acceleration and adds more steering. Alternatively you can also adjust front droop to gain you more steering.

What setup do you have on it already? Box kit setup or someone else's setup? Personally I run 4x 7g of lead weight behind the servo. If I run the a shortly, then I add an addition 2x 7g more weights. It is cheaper than buying the brass weight. I had other team mates that run the exotek aluminum bulkhead which works similar but gives added strength up front.

Both my cars run shorty. Rear motor with shorty pushed to the front, and ESC behind the shorty and bulkhead. Mid Motor I run shorty as well and a low profile servo which allows me to add additional weight as necessary, and I run the ESC behind the servo, shorty battery to rear. If grip is low, running a mid motor, then full size lipo and esc mounted on the side. But in most cases, the rear motor car is more consistent on low grip tracks.
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Old 01-13-2015, 09:05 AM   #15764
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Dino, I have a low profile servo, 3250mah in the middle, the setup is the high traction dirt 4gear MM. The shock Pistons are drilled 3-hole 1.4-1.4-1.5 for rear 25wt. Front are 3-hole drilled 1.4-1.4-1.3 30wt. The shocks feel great. I tried the box Pistons and the car just bottoms out.
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Old 01-13-2015, 11:00 AM   #15765
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Originally Posted by ohiostatechamp View Post
Dino, I have a low profile servo, 3250mah in the middle, the setup is the high traction dirt 4gear MM. The shock Pistons are drilled 3-hole 1.4-1.4-1.5 for rear 25wt. Front are 3-hole drilled 1.4-1.4-1.3 30wt. The shocks feel great. I tried the box Pistons and the car just bottoms out.
Yeah there is nothing wrong with adding weight if you are running a low profile servo. I know it sorta defeats the purpose of weight savings, but the car was designed around a full sized servo. Even still, nothing wrong with adding weights for tuning on high bite, as there was option parts to have the weight in there in the first place when the car was in concept and design.

They just removed the under the front weight and put a plastic piece there to de-tune the car and make it cheaper from a kit stand point.
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