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Old 12-31-2014, 11:45 AM   #15676
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Due to a difference in leverage you changed the effective spring rate, also known as the wheel rate, and the dampening. That's the equivalent of leaving the shock in place but changing the spring and piston inside.
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Old 01-03-2015, 05:24 PM   #15677
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Ran the car last night at a different track with a big nine-pack, 3 triples. stripped rear shock eyelet out as others had experienced. Replaced with a v1 eyelet someone had at the track...
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Old 01-03-2015, 07:13 PM   #15678
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I think I may be coming to the end with my time with the 210. I've learned what I like about the car and what I dislike. My favorite aspect of the car is the gearbox but honestly it's not that big of a deal to change to an alternate one. I'm also not a fan of the chassis in mid motor. It really needs to have a side by side saddle ability and it just doesn't. I like the V1 body. It's awesome looking. I like the shocks. They are very smooth. The car is durable which is nice. It's easy to adjust which is welcome.

My change of heart about sticking with the car came because I had a chance to directly measure another car. Up until now I've always made assumptions about it and the things I was certain of I wasn't that fond of. Then again I'll have likes and dislikes about any car. There is something that I've always wanted in a 2wd and that is less front kick. I've also recently come to the conclusion that with a front kick the front arms need to be longer than the rear to maintain the same effective roll centers with suspension movement. All cars today have the same effective AE based equal arm lengths and don't stand out from each other. There is one car that meets my design geometry wants. That's the 22. Unfortunately I'm not terribly confident in that car when it comes to mid motor which is what I'd prefer to run. That's a dilemma. I'd love to have the 210 rear end and gearbox complete with shocks mounted in front of the rear arms but with the front end of the 22 and a carbon fiber chassis that allows saddles in mid motor mode. It might just be easier to custom build a car out of these parts. We'll see. I just don't want to lose the back half of the 210 but the front has got to go. I don't want to get the suspension geometry I want but be stuck with rear motor though.
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Old 01-03-2015, 07:18 PM   #15679
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I have my V2 with the ESC in the center toward the Rear inline with the shorty pack spaced in the center with the pads its 4 gear mid motor on tacky clay and mixed dirt indoors .

Its my first buggy but i like the way it drives better than the B5M which feels like a tank driving wise to me i tested one out during practice.

What are you trying to get more out of this buggy ?
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Old 01-03-2015, 08:59 PM   #15680
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
I think I may be coming to the end with my time with the 210. I've learned what I like about the car and what I dislike. My favorite aspect of the car is the gearbox but honestly it's not that big of a deal to change to an alternate one. I'm also not a fan of the chassis in mid motor. It really needs to have a side by side saddle ability and it just doesn't. I like the V1 body. It's awesome looking. I like the shocks. They are very smooth. The car is durable which is nice. It's easy to adjust which is welcome.

My change of heart about sticking with the car came because I had a chance to directly measure another car. Up until now I've always made assumptions about it and the things I was certain of I wasn't that fond of. Then again I'll have likes and dislikes about any car. There is something that I've always wanted in a 2wd and that is less front kick. I've also recently come to the conclusion that with a front kick the front arms need to be longer than the rear to maintain the same effective roll centers with suspension movement. All cars today have the same effective AE based equal arm lengths and don't stand out from each other. There is one car that meets my design geometry wants. That's the 22. Unfortunately I'm not terribly confident in that car when it comes to mid motor which is what I'd prefer to run. That's a dilemma. I'd love to have the 210 rear end and gearbox complete with shocks mounted in front of the rear arms but with the front end of the 22 and a carbon fiber chassis that allows saddles in mid motor mode. It might just be easier to custom build a car out of these parts. We'll see. I just don't want to lose the back half of the 210 but the front has got to go. I don't want to get the suspension geometry I want but be stuck with rear motor though.

Sounds easy enough. Why not get the 22 front with its chassis, the 210 rear with its chassis and do a makeshift "matt trimmings" mod like he did with the b4+8. Several of us can make the final chassis in aluminum and myself and a few others could do the carbon one. Some of us can also do bodies. Im in san antonio, not far from you.
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Old 01-03-2015, 10:02 PM   #15681
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I could get the chassis done myself. I'm not a fan of the aluminum trend. I've heard the logic and excuses in it's favor and I still believe that carbon is a better option. The other option is to just redesign the Durango front end. In some ways that almost seems more appealing since I enjoy customization. The high mounted servo has got to go though. Someone was stoned when they thought up that idea.
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Old 01-03-2015, 10:27 PM   #15682
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Ran the car last night at a different track with a big nine-pack, 3 triples. stripped rear shock eyelet out as others had experienced. Replaced with a v1 eyelet someone had at the track...

What I did was to rethread the threads at the end of the shaft, hope it works.
Does the v1 eyelet solve the prob?
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Old 01-04-2015, 04:52 AM   #15683
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What I did was to rethread the threads at the end of the shaft, hope it works.
Does the v1 eyelet solve the prob?
I think the DimecX plastics in the V2 TD330591 tree are softer/more flexible which works great for ballcups, but I think don't work for the eyelet. I've also heard of a couple of DEX410v4 owners stripping out steering ballcups (not me personally).

I'll replace all the eyelets on this car with the ones that come with TD330293 and see how i make out.
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Old 01-04-2015, 06:31 AM   #15684
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Originally Posted by tobamiester View Post
I think the DimecX plastics in the V2 TD330591 tree are softer/more flexible which works great for ballcups, but I think don't work for the eyelet. I've also heard of a couple of DEX410v4 owners stripping out steering ballcups (not me personally).

I'll replace all the eyelets on this car with the ones that come with TD330293 and see how i make out.
Wait for it.......traxxas (and adjust the droop screws). Agreed. Dimecx shock eyes are trash.
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Old 01-04-2015, 06:38 AM   #15685
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Fred. I went with the 210 for the RM4 gearbox, I run dusty clay outdoor. Is there a way to put the B5 mid 4gear box in the B5RM or the mm losi (assuming it is 4gear) in the 22 at rear motor position? I run 17.5 and am having a hard time getting the weight down enough to be competitive with the RB5's and B4's. I have a lighter than stock chassis already and a .020 body.
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Old 01-04-2015, 07:30 AM   #15686
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Hey guy, just recently started racing a DEX210 and am loving it. Right now I have it RM3 with a shorty LiPo slid up against the servo and ESC/RX sitting behind it. It does very well as is and is quite competitive with the mid motors on our track at the moment.
I have an idea for mid motor that I want to pass by you guys and see what you think. Since in racing on outdoor dirt, it's kinda slick for mid motor setups yet the mid motors still dominate.
My idea is to run mid motor bit with a 1s motor/ESC so I can run just one saddle pack Lipo against the motor to keep almost all the weight at the back. I should be able to last on battery life if I do this (just couldn't run endurance races anymore), but I wanted to get you guy's opinion on how it would work like that.
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Old 01-04-2015, 08:00 AM   #15687
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Fred. I went with the 210 for the RM4 gearbox, I run dusty clay outdoor. Is there a way to put the B5 mid 4gear box in the B5RM or the mm losi (assuming it is 4gear) in the 22 at rear motor position? I run 17.5 and am having a hard time getting the weight down enough to be competitive with the RB5's and B4's. I have a lighter than stock chassis already and a .020 body.
My initial answer is that there's a way to do anything. However if that involves essentially redesigning the entire car then it's probably not the best path to take. It would be easier to design a new gear case for one of those cars and then either 3D print it or mill it.
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Old 01-04-2015, 05:04 PM   #15688
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I think the DimecX plastics in the V2 TD330591 tree are softer/more flexible which works great for ballcups, but I think don't work for the eyelet. I've also heard of a couple of DEX410v4 owners stripping out steering ballcups (not me personally).

I'll replace all the eyelets on this car with the ones that come with TD330293 and see how i make out.
the gray ballcups suck in general, they are too soft. and yes the shock eyelets are the first to go with them.

if you have both right and left hand threaded taps the original ones work perfect, the holes in the black ones are just too small.

I know most think the new gray ones are great but if you take your time with the originals they are perfect, i have never had a problem with the black ones even on my desc410.
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Old 01-04-2015, 08:11 PM   #15689
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My LHS has a TD320163 chassis in stock. My local track is pretty tame so not worried about durability. Looking to lighten up the car for stock racing.
Anyone know the weight difference between this and the v2 Alum chassis + side pods ?
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Old 01-04-2015, 08:26 PM   #15690
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I haven't had the shock rod ends snap on the V2 ed on me even after hitting a big double jump not landing good at times . Im thinking to much droop puts to much stress on them i limit my because of the arms underneath gaugeing .

But il get some V1 ends just incase.
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