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Old 12-29-2014, 01:37 PM   #15661
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Originally Posted by ohiostatechamp View Post
Yeah got to agree with you on the shock thing. With the Durango there is not just one common set up. Too many pistons, oil, spring combinations. Where should you start? I know the base set up for the old car was horrible unless you were on carpet. Theset up I have on my original DEX isn't even close to what the manual says. That is why I am a little hesitant to use the manual set up.
I still have both my DEX210's and still might buy the V2 version. I really like the overall layout of the car and I do like the fact that they made it so much easier to work on compared to my V1.
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Old 12-29-2014, 04:21 PM   #15662
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I've had good luck with the base setup with my V2. Even had good success running outdoor in the dirt with mid motor setup. Minor tweaks of course, but not horrible. Only thing I will agree on would be shock pistons being daunting.... I ran associated before Durango and was familiar with the oils and dampening. Durango provides blank pistons... So i just drilled a few sets with the same holes and sizes as the associated pistons. Since then... It's been much better.
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Old 12-29-2014, 10:34 PM   #15663
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You guys tried the Durango Brass weight under the servo ? I bought a 15 gram one for cheap and boy it might of gave me to much steering lol with the 4 gear mid motor . It did seem to make the steering smoother though more constant .

Now i know different front tires can give it less steering though or a rate stiffer on the Front shocks.

This was on High grip gray color clay .
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Old 12-30-2014, 10:56 AM   #15664
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You guys tried the Durango Brass weight under the servo ? I bought a 15 gram e for cheap and boy it might of gave me to much steering lol with the 4 gear mid motor . It did seem to make the steering smoother though more constant .

Now i know different front tires can give it less steering though or a rate stiffer on the Front shocks.

This was on High grip gray color clay .
Mid motor will have more rotation to begin with, you can stiffen up your front springs a bit to help, but the biggest thing you can do to help with adding or subtracting steering is caster. Add more caster so it doesn't feel like it wants to turn in like crazy.
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Old 12-30-2014, 10:57 AM   #15665
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You can also play with your Ackerman setting to help with steering feel.
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Old 12-30-2014, 03:39 PM   #15666
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I think the electronics aren't bad for an RTR, being Speed Passion based. Motor is a 13.5 so you'd need to swap it out if you wanted to run Stock (17.5).

Servo if I recall is average and I think the Ackerman arm maybe plastic so thats worth replacing.

Obviously you'll need tires, which is 80% of your track setup at least.

The car is actually discontinued so you may get it for a decent price and then can upgrade to some of the new v2 parts like gearbox, ballcups, towers, arms etc.

I would probably just get a v2 kit (a few used ones on here or even better buy new) and then look for an economic electronics package, like the HW Justock combo and great if your just getting into it..
Thank you for that information.

I will be on the look out for a deal on a v2 here then i need to really stay in a budget so buying new right now wouldn't really work.
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Old 12-30-2014, 07:32 PM   #15667
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My order came in from Tower and Exotek so I was able to get a bunch done on my car today. I had to stop again because I cannot assemble my shocks until the metal parts for my shocks arrive from Amain. They should be here any day now. I also changed my mind on the power system and went with a Tekin RS With a 8.5t, both Gen 2. It is all built now with the exception of the shocks and power system.
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Old 12-31-2014, 08:13 AM   #15668
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I was looking through the manual for the DEX210v2 and noticed that there really isn't much set up change between high traction dirt and carpet. My local track is high traction dirt and a local hobby store is opening up a carpet track. According to the manual the only thing I would need to change are the tires. Somehow this just doesn't seem right. Any thoughts?
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Old 12-31-2014, 08:45 AM   #15669
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High traction is high traction. Why does it matter what it's made of?
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Old 12-31-2014, 09:21 AM   #15670
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I agree that high traction is by traction. I expected it to be different because what is considered high traction dirt has less traction then carpet. Carpet often has far more traction.
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Old 12-31-2014, 09:30 AM   #15671
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I ran on carpet indoors quite a fee times with other cars usually the lower ride height the better something like 19mm/20mm ride height , shocks layed down, stiffer springs , a little heavyer shock oil .
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Old 12-31-2014, 09:45 AM   #15672
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That is more along the lines of what I thought it would be. However I thought standing up the shocks would be better. What benefit do you gain from laying down the shocks?
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Old 12-31-2014, 10:02 AM   #15673
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That is more along the lines of what I thought it would be. However I thought standing up the shocks would be better. What benefit do you gain from laying down the shocks?


It's been a whole since i raced on carpet but it's less roll if you lay the shock down at least on the bottom arms . I remember using the middle holes on the arms on the Rear and the layed down on the arms on the Front end . I never messed with the top mounting on the shock angles if I remember .

If there is to much grip standing the shock up more on the rear end on carpet it loosens up the rear end and gave more cornering speed pretty much .
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Old 12-31-2014, 10:21 AM   #15674
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A shock that is layed down has less leverage than one that is stood up. That effectively lowers the spring rate. The orientation of a shock has nothing to do with whether it has more grip or less grip or corners better or soaks up bumps better, etc. The exact same is true for the lower shock mount location but in addition to changing the effective spring rate (wheel rate), it also effectively changes dampening. With the wide selection of springs, pistons, and oils that we have today, we could honestly have only 1 shock mounting option and could tune it for any situation.
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Old 12-31-2014, 11:31 AM   #15675
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A shock that is layed down has less leverage than one that is stood up. That effectively lowers the spring rate. The orientation of a shock has nothing to do with whether it has more grip or less grip or corners better or soaks up bumps better, etc. The exact same is true for the lower shock mount location but in addition to changing the effective spring rate (wheel rate), it also effectively changes dampening. With the wide selection of springs, pistons, and oils that we have today, we could honestly have only 1 shock mounting option and could tune it for any situation.


Oh ok. Well it does seem like though changing to the middle hole on the arms on the Rear end freed it up and more corner speed for sure it felt like.
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