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Old 12-25-2014, 11:19 AM   #15631
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Only thing that is a must have really is the Alum battery hold thumb screws. Must dos i say if your using the stock springs go up in weight like 32/30w a gear diff if you want that and over time do get the alum Front Rear suspension block .

The rest is extra springs , tires , Spur gear.
Are the specific suspension blocks your getting?
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Old 12-25-2014, 03:13 PM   #15632
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Refreshening a pair of shocks I bought used. The pistons that came with it are 1.6x3. The setup I would like to copy has 1.2x6 pistons. All I have are 3 hole Pistons. So what 3hole piston do I need to equal the same feel as the 1.2x6. pistons.
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Old 12-25-2014, 07:37 PM   #15633
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Are the specific suspension blocks your getting?


I dint get one yet but i plan to ethier the Exotek or the Durango one . Sucks that with the type B chassis you got to file down the side of the arms though with the Exotek one.


DEX210 RF HANGER WITH SHIMS +LRC .


One thing i forgot that is a cheap upgrade but well worth it is the B4.1 slipper pads the circle ones just like the stock Durango pads. They grab great and more constant running mod motor.
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Old 12-25-2014, 07:57 PM   #15634
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Aluminum Rear hex hubs to keep the pin in and stronger.
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Old 12-25-2014, 08:06 PM   #15635
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Aluminum Rear hex hubs to keep the pin in and stronger.
Thanks so much for the reply, I'm going to ad slipper pads to my order.

On another note, has anyone tried B5 spindles and axles on this car? It looks like it might be an option to out hexes on the front maybe?
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Old 12-25-2014, 08:12 PM   #15636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
I dint get one yet but i plan to ethier the Exotek or the Durango one . Sucks that with the type B chassis you got to file down the side of the arms though with the Exotek one.


DEX210 RF HANGER WITH SHIMS +LRC .


One thing i forgot that is a cheap upgrade but well worth it is the B4.1 slipper pads the circle ones just like the stock Durango pads. They grab great and more constant running mod motor.
With the latest V2 versions the area by the rear blocks tapers down to only 1mm thick where the arms are. I have a feeling the arms will not need to be filed down for a low roll center, but will know for sure when my Ecotec parts arrive. Here are a couple pics of the rear end of my center chassis frame.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Laker67 View Post
Thanks so much for the reply, I'm going to ad slipper pads to my order.

On another note, has anyone tried B5 spindles and axles on this car? It looks like it might be an option to out hexes on the front maybe?
I found some posts earlier in the thread where B5 hexes were used on the rear stock axles and the fronts used with DESC spindles and B5 axles. Now that Exotec has announced they are going to make 12mm hexes to fit I am just going to wait for that.

Last edited by Super08; 12-25-2014 at 09:51 PM.
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Old 12-25-2014, 08:19 PM   #15637
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laker67 View Post
Thanks so much for the reply, I'm going to ad slipper pads to my order.

On another note, has anyone tried B5 spindles and axles on this car? It looks like it might be an option to out hexes on the front maybe?



No problem. I saw the B5 Front axles on this buggy on Tombsier team page im interested in them not sure how much modding would be needed though or none at all. I know for a fact that the Kyosho RB6 Front ones to fit with only cutting a little of the shaft i believe.


By the way on the B5 12mm Rear hexes i did buy them but they do need about 2 more axle shims on the outside of the hub to take a lot of the play out . Your better off getting the Proline 12mm B4.1 hexs there more similar to the Durango ones or wait intill Exotek comes out with the 12mm Rear hexs.
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Old 12-25-2014, 09:50 PM   #15638
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With the plastic Spider diff gears on the gear diff do i need to go up to 5k from 4k with the Metal Spider diff gears i been using or i can stick with the 4k ?
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Old 12-26-2014, 05:02 PM   #15639
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With the plastic Spider diff gears on the gear diff do i need to go up to 5k from 4k with the Metal Spider diff gears i been using or i can stick with the 4k ?
I was running 2k with the metal gears and stayed at 2k with the plastic gears, it is sooooo smooth with the plastic gears!!
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Old 12-26-2014, 05:16 PM   #15640
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I was running 2k with the metal gears and stayed at 2k with the plastic gears, it is sooooo smooth with the plastic gears!!


Dang 2k you must running on lower bite dirt right ? Im running on high bite clay and one that is a mix of clay/soil. Yea they are much lighter !

So looks like i can stick with the 4k than with the plastic diff gears.
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Old 12-27-2014, 09:52 AM   #15641
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Hi guys,

I'm new to RC and bought the V2 for its versatality. The problem is, i don't know what the numbers mean. For example, for the RR LRC, what does the -2mm/3 degrees mean? I'm seeing option parts with 1.5mm/3 degrees and etc..so what does this number translates to?

And, then there's castor? As much as i want to trial and error with the provided options, i haven't got a single clue as to what it does.

I know I can just stick to the default setup but that would be half the fun. Oh, I'm running rear mount btw, if that helps.

Thanks in advance
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Old 12-27-2014, 10:09 AM   #15642
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RR is Rear Rear suspension mount.
LRC is Low Roll Center

-2mm is the mount is lowered by 2 millimeters

The degrees you are referring to is the rear kick up or anti-squat.

If Google suspension geometry or even just castor or camber there are some excellent articles on the web that explain them, even the anti-squat.
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Old 12-27-2014, 10:59 AM   #15643
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I only run the HRC block. Neither one will "lock in" the rear end or any other voodoo. Nothing in rc works like that so ignore advice like that. The LRC fad is marketing bs that Losi decided to push on people hungry for features but low on knowledge. The only reason an LRC block results in a lower roll center is if you don't change your camber link. The same thing would happen if you just left the HRC block in but just raised the inner camber link location. What these blocks really do is to change where the suspension mounts vertically in relation to the chassis or center of gravity. The irony is that you raise your center of gravity in relation to roll center with the LRC block. You also increase your driveshaft plunge and increase its angle through most of the suspension travel. That increases drivetrain drag. If you know what you are doing, they can't help you. It's an unnecessary feature. There are tons of features built in to cars today that are unnecessary.
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Last edited by fredswain; 12-27-2014 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 12-27-2014, 12:41 PM   #15644
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Hello I am thinking of getting the dex210 rtr to start in 2wd

Will I be competitive the the rtr?

If not what would I need to make sure I am?

Thank you
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Old 12-29-2014, 02:11 AM   #15645
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Can anyone please quoted the Traxxas shock shaft eyelet part number for the rear V2?

I need to replace the stock eyelets, dnf two races due to failures (stripping out) on rear shock eyelets.
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