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Old 11-24-2014, 09:13 AM   #15466
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Yeah. Like I posted previous, I mistakingly had it running 3 gear, but reversing the motor direction (in the ESC) - gearbox was same orientation.

I dropped the missing 4th gear in this past saturday (and reset ESC) and put a mod-motor in it.

I thought it was a little twitchy to be honest...more testing and setup work to do. feel like it has plenty of steering tho.



Oh. Yea on clay when i ran the 4 gear mid motor it was twitchy but gobs of steering though . The 3 gear mid motor is easyier to drive though on clay especially on dry/wet clay but with less steering doesn't squat as much though on the rear end.
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:15 AM   #15467
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Oh. Yea on clay when i ran the 4 gear mid motor it was twitchy but gobs of steering though . The 3 gear mid motor is easyier to drive though on clay especially on dry/wet clay but with less steering .
Good info. I may switch the orientation and go back to 3 gear and test again this week, for comparison purposes.
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Old 11-24-2014, 12:19 PM   #15468
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I need some advice. Bought an almost brand new V2 kit recently. Decided after reading the comments here to try it in MM3. Currently using a slightly modified associated spur as dingo spurs are back ordered into eternity. My issue is the car is slipping too much. Usually I've seen this when a slipper is too loose or the diff isn't tight enough. I've put both down to the max and on full power its taking about a second and a half to balloon the tires on power. I'm wondering what might be wrong. I will say that when trying to tighten the slipper down turning the spur does nothing. Meaning that the slipper shaft just turns with the pin inside the spur. I'm wondering if maybe the slipper isn't on right.

Any ideas would be helpful.
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Old 11-24-2014, 12:34 PM   #15469
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I need some advice. Bought an almost brand new V2 kit recently. Decided after reading the comments here to try it in MM3. Currently using a slightly modified associated spur as dingo spurs are back ordered into eternity. My issue is the car is slipping too much. Usually I've seen this when a slipper is too loose or the diff isn't tight enough. I've put both down to the max and on full power its taking about a second and a half to balloon the tires on power. I'm wondering what might be wrong. I will say that when trying to tighten the slipper down turning the spur does nothing. Meaning that the slipper shaft just turns with the pin inside the spur. I'm wondering if maybe the slipper isn't on right.

Any ideas would be helpful.



Yea the stock clutch you need to tighten down a good amount especially with mod motors. The pads might need to be cleaned off or get some B4 slipper pads that's what i did haven't ran with them yet though .

Do the hold the two Rear tires and and blip the throttle for a sec /wheelie popup method .
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Old 11-24-2014, 01:26 PM   #15470
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Looks like using the associated pads did it. They tend to be a bit thicker than the dingo ones. Thank god for extra b44 parts laying around.
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Old 11-24-2014, 01:35 PM   #15471
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Looks like using the associated pads did it. They tend to be a bit thicker than the dingo ones. Thank god for extra b44 parts laying around.


They worked better or no ?
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Old 11-24-2014, 01:46 PM   #15472
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They worked better or no ?
Much much better. White pad with one cream was the best configuration.
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Old 11-24-2014, 01:56 PM   #15473
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Much much better. White pad with one cream was the best configuration.


Oh i got the B4 tan color pads . The White ones i had on my GT2 ST a long time ago and they were good .
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Old 11-24-2014, 01:57 PM   #15474
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I looked at some setup sheets and noticed guys running on Clay where running 22mm F/R from 19mm/20mm stock setup ?
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Old 11-26-2014, 03:10 PM   #15475
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I looked at some setup sheets and noticed guys running on Clay where running 22mm F/R from 19mm/20mm stock setup ?
What is your question? What's the difference ride height makes?

Ride height most importantly affects the amount of weight transferred, also bump handling. Keep in mind changing ride height also alters your droop. If you change your height, you may need to readjust your droop.

On certain tracks that are high speed you want less roll. This can be achieved in 3 ways. If the track is smooth, then lowering can be done to a point. If it is rutted and bumpy, it might be necessary to compensate with oil instead, but then again, that could also alter bump handling. You can also reduce droop to prevent the weight transfer to the other end.

On technical tracks, mainly indoors (clay) where it is tight. Sometimes you want more roll to get your car to turn and have more weight transfer for grip due to lower temps. Again you can lower the oil wt, or raise the ride height slightly, or increase droop. If you increase ride height and your car starts to push, then reduce only the front droop.
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Old 11-26-2014, 05:27 PM   #15476
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What is your question? What's the difference ride height makes?

Ride height most importantly affects the amount of weight transferred, also bump handling. Keep in mind changing ride height also alters your droop. If you change your height, you may need to readjust your droop.

On certain tracks that are high speed you want less roll. This can be achieved in 3 ways. If the track is smooth, then lowering can be done to a point. If it is rutted and bumpy, it might be necessary to compensate with oil instead, but then again, that could also alter bump handling. You can also reduce droop to prevent the weight transfer to the other end.

On technical tracks, mainly indoors (clay) where it is tight. Sometimes you want more roll to get your car to turn and have more weight transfer for grip due to lower temps. Again you can lower the oil wt, or raise the ride height slightly, or increase droop. If you increase ride height and your car starts to push, then reduce only the front droop.




If this helps i race at this track.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGYsTR63XAY



Actually i was going to do 30w/27.5 w shock oil with the stock springs and pistons anyways and some more ride height maybe on that.
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Last edited by tc5 man; 11-26-2014 at 05:53 PM.
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Old 11-26-2014, 09:29 PM   #15477
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If this helps i race at this track.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGYsTR63XAY



Actually i was going to do 30w/27.5 w shock oil with the stock springs and pistons anyways and some more ride height maybe on that.
At that track you can get away with running between 20-22mm height. Not sure the temps at your track. But if you are running 1.6x3 then I would suggest slightly higher oils. 27 might be too light with the amount of grip your track seems to have. What tires you using? Ions, Dirt Webs, Bar Codes?
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Old 11-26-2014, 09:41 PM   #15478
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At that track you can get away with running between 20-22mm height. Not sure the temps at your track. But if you are running 1.6x3 then I would suggest slightly higher oils. 27 might be too light with the amount of grip your track seems to have. What tires you using? Ions, Dirt Webs, Bar Codes?



Ok thanks. Right now im running 32w F/30w Rear is 32w up Front to heavy ? Actually the grip level isn't high traction its medium to low inless its wet for a while its higher traction . In the video it was dryier all day.

Last weekend i was running maintly warn Rear Ions (clay) and Ions up front with sauce on them . Tried slicks but it was to dry that day that's what everybody runs when its wetter and dryier treaded tires .

The temps inside its not cold its confortable as long as people keep the doors shut its a big building ! Most guys run B5M with the 4 gear mid motor i may go back to that from 3 gear mid motor now which i like its not as twichy.
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Old 11-26-2014, 09:45 PM   #15479
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Thumbs up 1 shaft/2 gears or 2 shafts/4 gears DIff??

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Looking at the picture on the box it looks like it only comes with 1 - if so I think you can just buy the shaft and gears as a set if you want 4. The extra gears just help take the load if you run higher torque motors than supplied
Hi,

I have a DEX210 rtr and was wondering if it would be good to get another Gear shaft+2 gears to my differential. I don't use the 13.5 t motor anymore as I want to fit in the 17.5 t category.

I found a post in this thread saying that the 2 shafts/4 gears setup is only good when you switch from the stock to a higher torque motor. Is that right? Can anybody give an opinion about 2 shafts/4 gears setup compared to the 1 shaft/2gears one?

Thanks
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Old 11-26-2014, 10:25 PM   #15480
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Hi,

I have a DEX210 rtr and was wondering if it would be good to get another Gear shaft+2 gears to my differential. I don't use the 13.5 t motor anymore as I want to fit in the 17.5 t category.

I found a post in this thread saying that the 2 shafts/4 gears setup is only good when you switch from the stock to a higher torque motor. Is that right? Can anybody give an opinion about 2 shafts/4 gears setup compared to the 1 shaft/2gears one?

Thanks
When you use 1 shaft / 2 gears in your diff it is lighter than the 2 shafts with 4 spider gears. But since there is less resistance, you need to use thicker diff oil to compensate for the less resistance in the gears. But really have you weight the 2 gears vs the extra oil required to fill it. It isn't that much different. Maybe a few grams. Also it is smoother with the 4 gears instead of 2. Just saying. The best thing to do would be to use the molded composite gears from the DEX410 v4. Its much lighter than the steel spider gears and shaft. Plus its cheap! Price wise.
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