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Old 10-20-2014, 09:51 AM   #15241
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110mm might be a a little short depending on what configuration you plan on running.

A run of the mill 4600mah shorty probably gets me well north of 15mins of run time with a 8.5t.
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:04 AM   #15242
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Yeah, it all depends on where you place the esc (front, back or side) and if you are running mid or rear motor.
I use a piece of string when wiring up a new kit and lay it out to get a length.
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Old 10-21-2014, 05:59 AM   #15243
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+1 for String Theory. Using a string is easiest way to measure. Make sure you leave some slack.
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:25 PM   #15244
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Guys running the 4 gear mid motor i noticed that the bottom of the gearbox the Front bottom is locked down into the chassis more than the Rear is that normal with mid gear ? I used the right screws and spacers and followed the manuel. Thinking using the little bumper and the spacers underneath the rear of the gearbox since it raises it its normal than.

I know from RM 2wd at least that ive own before the bottom of the gearbox locks into the chassis leveled.
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:11 PM   #15245
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Guys running the 4 gear mid motor i noticed that the bottom of the gearbox the Front bottom is locked down into the chassis more than the Rear is that normal with mid gear ? I used the right screws and spacers and followed the manuel. Thinking using the little bumper and the spacers underneath the rear of the gearbox since it raises it its normal than.

I know from RM 2wd at least that ive own before the bottom of the gearbox locks into the chassis leveled.
seems that you put the little rear bumper in the wrong space
the bumper should be put in further lower
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:49 PM   #15246
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Oh i see now thanks. Just did that and its locked into the chassis Front and Rear bottom of the Gearbox now . The Manuel is a vagued on showing that .

Il take pics of the right way later tomorrow.
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Old 10-22-2014, 07:25 AM   #15247
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Hey guys... I'm back... lol
Just got my dex210 in the mail today, and the electronics coming later this week. What parts are more prone to break? My LHS doesn't carry Durango and I will have to get parts from amain or tower.
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Old 10-22-2014, 12:24 PM   #15248
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What ball diff maintenance should I perform over the winter. I plan to change the bearings. Do the balls wear out as well?

Was going to just clean the dickens out of it and treat it to new bearings. Anything else these buggies need to get ready for a new season?


@the chuckles, my track is easy on cars, but I don't recall anyone breaking anything other than rear wings and a stripped spur gear on the Durango's. I have one of everything and haven't needed it. My SC is way harder on the equipment.
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Old 10-22-2014, 12:47 PM   #15249
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Front a-arm, wide open in exposed spike. Truggy knocked the pipe off.
Spur gear, random ball of solder found its way into the spur, chewed it up.
Spur gear cover, broke at the top screw hole, cracked at bottom
And pulled the rear shock shaft out of the shock eyelet.
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Old 10-22-2014, 01:01 PM   #15250
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What ball diff maintenance should I perform over the winter. I plan to change the bearings. Do the balls wear out as well?

Was going to just clean the dickens out of it and treat it to new bearings. Anything else these buggies need to get ready for a new season?


@the chuckles, my track is easy on cars, but I don't recall anyone breaking anything other than rear wings and a stripped spur gear on the Durango's. I have one of everything and haven't needed it. My SC is way harder on the equipment.



I would just get the gear diff i just bought one . Since you gotta rebuild the ball diff .
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Old 10-22-2014, 01:14 PM   #15251
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So how many of you are running the gear diffs? I have the v2 with the ball diff and looking at set-ups online I've only seen lutz running a gear diff. Wondering if it's worth the money to get the gear diff

For those that are running the gear diff, I'm running on an indoor clay track, small/medium, tight turn with alot of off camber, and medium traction. What fluid weight would you recommend?
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Old 10-22-2014, 01:21 PM   #15252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thechuckles8910 View Post
Hey guys... I'm back... lol
Just got my dex210 in the mail today, and the electronics coming later this week. What parts are more prone to break? My LHS doesn't carry Durango and I will have to get parts from amain or tower.
Beside gear cover, and the smaller idler gear bearing, Its a pretty strong car. If you are really worried, gear cover, front and rear arms, suspension holders, rear hub - but I haven't broke anything yet.
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Old 10-22-2014, 01:23 PM   #15253
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On higher traction a gear diff holds up better you just need to tune the diff oil to your likening so it doesn't diff out to much . I just know this from running a ball diff than a gear diff on my T4.1 I sold a while ago .
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Old 10-22-2014, 01:24 PM   #15254
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Originally Posted by BensPro2 View Post
So how many of you are running the gear diffs? I have the v2 with the ball diff and looking at set-ups online I've only seen lutz running a gear diff. Wondering if it's worth the money to get the gear diff

For those that are running the gear diff, I'm running on an indoor clay track, small/medium, tight turn with alot of off camber, and medium traction. What fluid weight would you recommend?
start with 1-2k. Start with 2k first. I find the ball diff better on med traction tracks. Gear diff if high traction or carpet.
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Old 10-22-2014, 01:27 PM   #15255
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I meant to ask about what weight diff oil for the gear diff ? I'm thinking 4000w, 5000w since il be running on carpet and clay .
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