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Old 09-26-2014, 01:43 PM   #15136
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Via Google images I don't have the type B gearbox.

Does anyone have experience with Durango customer service and being provided a new gearbox or will I have to pay $15 shipping for a $6 part?
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Old 09-26-2014, 01:55 PM   #15137
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Originally Posted by Devin View Post
Via Google images I don't have the type B gearbox.

Does anyone have experience with Durango customer service and being provided a new gearbox or will I have to pay $15 shipping for a $6 part?
Well with my experience on Durango customer service, I'd say just bite the bullet and buy the type B gearbox yourself. I had to have them replace a set of aluminum pre-load nuts that were not machined properly and finally 6-months later I get the pre-load nuts. Effing ridiculous. Another part they had to replace were the diff out-drives as they were also defective from the factory, and Durango sent me another set of defective out-drives.

So yeah, I'd stay away from warranty replacements unless you like waiting :-)
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Old 09-26-2014, 02:01 PM   #15138
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Having a bad couple of days and now just frustrated at this. I would have phrased it differently. Thankfully I bought it from Tower and they will ship the part out to me on their dime.
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Old 09-26-2014, 03:05 PM   #15139
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At some point soon I'm going to have to replace my cvd's. The right one is slightly warped. That certainly isn't helping wear in the outdrive either.
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Old 09-27-2014, 05:18 AM   #15140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devin View Post
This is building a brand new kit, there should be no wear. Even without the screws, just by completing the two halves there is binding. This is before a motor plate or anything comes into play.

My kit has a number of type b items, the chassis for sure. Could I be dealing with a type a gearbox?
Do you have a V1 or V2 kit? V1 comes with Type A gearbox. V2 comes with Type B. If you are having issues with the type B gearbox, perhaps you can double check the assembly.
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Old 09-28-2014, 12:44 PM   #15141
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Nevermind, I see why its needed now, if not the assembly just pushes on through.

Does anyone have a link to the actual C-clip pliers they use? I picked up the crafsman ones but they don't work very well at this scale.
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Old 09-28-2014, 07:12 PM   #15142
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Nevermind, I see why its needed now, if not the assembly just pushes on through.

Does anyone have a link to the actual C-clip pliers they use? I picked up the crafsman ones but they don't work very well at this scale.
Can't figure out how yo copy paste on the iPad. Google image circlip pliers. First blue handle that comes up, Channel lock brand. About 20$ on Amazon. Has several attachments, one of them first perfectly. I bought that set a home building centre for less sans shipping charges FYI.
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Old 09-28-2014, 07:49 PM   #15143
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this one?

http://www.amazon.com/Channellock-92...1958825&sr=1-2
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Old 09-28-2014, 08:48 PM   #15144
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Do you mean these channel locks?
http://www.amazon.com/Channellock-92...ir+clip+pliers
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Old 09-28-2014, 08:49 PM   #15145
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ahhaha, jinx! Weird I didn't see your post before I made mine...must not have refreshed.
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Old 09-29-2014, 07:23 AM   #15146
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Yeah I use the same Channel Lock pliers as well.
In Canada they are available at our local hardware store Canadian Tire.
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Old 09-29-2014, 06:08 PM   #15147
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Hi Everyone - I happened across a dex210v1 at my local hobby shop. I dont really know much about them but they seem like a good kit. I am wondering what esc/motor would work well in one just for bashing. I cannot tell by the pictures how much room is available. I have a T4 with castle creation side winder 3 5700. Would this size motor work?

Also, what would a fair price (us dollars) for a dex210v1 kit to make it worth purchasing? I have done a brief skimming of this thread and it appears there are pros and cons for both versions.

TIA

Last edited by dstidham; 09-30-2014 at 05:32 AM.
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Old 09-30-2014, 06:09 AM   #15148
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@Dstadham, the kit fits a 540 size can. Not sure on what a good price is.


My Car is consistently jumping nose high. What changes can be made to the car to help it fly more neutral?

I have a couple jumps where even if I let off the gas on the face of the jump, to get the required distance it is landing motor mount down and I am having to jab the brake to land it smoothly. For the most part it is manageable with the brake but there is one high-lipped double in particular where it kind of floats, making it really tricky to gauge that I can't do consistently.
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Old 09-30-2014, 06:33 AM   #15149
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any rear chassis slap you notice on take off of the jump?

having a Tekno SCT410 where we ran into that issue a lot, it is usually a combo fixing these things that may apply to you too:

- Weight orientation of battery (too forward, etc)
- stiffer rear springs
- different piston for more pack
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Old 09-30-2014, 07:06 AM   #15150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
any rear chassis slap you notice on take off of the jump?

having a Tekno SCT410 where we ran into that issue a lot, it is usually a combo fixing these things that may apply to you too:

- Weight orientation of battery (too forward, etc)
- stiffer rear springs
- different piston for more pack
Isn't stiffer rear springs the solution to nose diving? I've seen the rear hit and pitch the car forward. It would surprise me if the rear hitting cause it to fly nose high. Would stiffer front springs would make some sense in that train of thought?

I am not noticing much chassis slap however. One of the trickier jumps is right in front of the driver stand and is a six foot high, 10 foot long ramp (big table top) and the suspension looks like it is evened out as it launches off the face and even there with the long, smooth run-up it likes to fly nose high. With the brakes I can land that one smoothly because I have a giant downside to work with.
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