R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree26Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-19-2014, 10:33 AM   #15076
Tech Master
 
Dino_D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Markham
Posts: 1,115
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
to confirm you are using the metal cover with the regular durango spurs or with the avid in RM?
Metal cover on std durango spur with AE slipper pad in RM. The metal cover can't fit with the Avid slipper on.

Regardless which config, avid slipper needs avid cover.

Anyhow, you have more rear grip in RM. I think slipper performance of the avid is better in MM mode, when you want the slipper action to be smoother. Sure the avid is great in RM as well, but the covers just don't last, hence why I opted for the metal one and using a standard slipper.
__________________
* Team Great Hobbies * Team Powers * Exotek *
http://www.sidsraceway.com
Dino_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2014, 06:51 PM   #15077
Tech Legend
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 28,804
Trader Rating: 234 (100%+)
Default

thanks for info. I agree the covers go to hell around the screw holes. really sucks.
__________________
Member - Red River Radio/Control Car Club
< Tekno SCT410.3 x 2 |HB Racing D413 x 2 | Tekno EB48SL x 2 | Yokomo YZ-2 DTM x 2>
Cain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2014, 07:02 PM   #15078
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: The Cliniek
Posts: 326
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
thanks for info. I agree the covers go to hell around the screw holes. really sucks.
Use longer screws and put a old shock oring on each screw problem solved!
DR.Vanostrum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2014, 09:38 PM   #15079
Tech Regular
 
re-do73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: pleasant hill, mo.
Posts: 260
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Plan B chassis conversions are in production! Will have at least 3 available by monday. PM for details
re-do73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2014, 12:47 AM   #15080
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Austria
Posts: 591
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by re-do73 View Post
Plan B chassis conversions are in production! Will have at least 3 available by monday. PM for details
Looks very good!
Do i see it right, that it is an +10 chassis?
What program do you use for the construction of your files?
__________________
Greetings from Austria

Cat K2 / DEX410V3 / DEX410V5 / DEX210 / DEX210F / Cougar SVR /
YZ-10 '94/'95 WCS/
Spectrum DX3R
micholix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2014, 06:37 AM   #15081
Tech Master
 
RC10Nick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,299
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by re-do73 View Post
Plan B chassis conversions are in production! Will have at least 3 available by monday. PM for details

Looks nice! I just got my cnc router wired up yesterday and seeing what you've created is really motivating me to finish up mine!
__________________
JT RC Products
https://www.facebook.com/JTRCProducts/
RC10Nick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2014, 08:52 AM   #15082
Tech Regular
 
re-do73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: pleasant hill, mo.
Posts: 260
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by micholix View Post
Looks very good!
Do i see it right, that it is an +10 chassis?
What program do you use for the construction of your files?
Yes, plus 10 chassis. I use solidworks for all my designs.
@ Nick, good luck!!! it's a long journey of fustration and headaches, but when you cut your first part it is worth it!!!!!
re-do73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2014, 11:01 AM   #15083
psl
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 100
Default V2 build

When building the V2. I have a base set up sheet. It says to use maximum droop for the front and rear arms. Does it mean droop screws fully down or up. If I let the front arms fully droop my front ride height is in the mid to high 20's. Am I doing something wrong with the build? The set up sheet suggest a 19 ride height for the front.
__________________
Durango DESC 410v2 4wd SC
Durango DEX 210 Exotek MM
Durango DEX 410v5
Kyosho SC6
Radiopost
psl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2014, 11:40 AM   #15084
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 156
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Instructions are just for basic assembly. Set ride height with droop screws per setup you want to start with. I'm running 23 front 25 rear on mine at the moment.
Wanderer77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2014, 04:25 PM   #15085
ekt
Tech Master
 
ekt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Burnie, Australia
Posts: 1,228
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by psl View Post
When building the V2. I have a base set up sheet. It says to use maximum droop for the front and rear arms. Does it mean droop screws fully down or up. If I let the front arms fully droop my front ride height is in the mid to high 20's. Am I doing something wrong with the build? The set up sheet suggest a 19 ride height for the front.
For maximum droop, set the screws so that the arms are allowed full travel. Ride height is adjusted with the preload nuts on the shocks, refer to this video for setting your ride height https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKTfEGZom4Q
__________________
Leo Lorenzen
Xray Australia - Proline Australia - GForce Australia - Fantom Australia - Hearns Hobbies
ekt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2014, 08:19 PM   #15086
Tech Champion
 
tobamiester's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Tea drinking Limmey in NJ
Posts: 9,579
Trader Rating: 278 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to tobamiester Send a message via Yahoo to tobamiester
Default

Just built a v2. Have an issue, maybe an old one.

Driveshaft on left appears to be hitting the diff-nut (in the outdrive on the left) when holding the car off the ground.

I've put the TD330377 Alum hubs on it. I'd tried it with the stock v2 hubs and it didn't seem to be any better. Any ideas?
tobamiester is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2014, 05:09 AM   #15087
ekt
Tech Master
 
ekt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Burnie, Australia
Posts: 1,228
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tobamiester View Post
Just built a v2. Have an issue, maybe an old one.

Driveshaft on left appears to be hitting the diff-nut (in the outdrive on the left) when holding the car off the ground.

I've put the TD330377 Alum hubs on it. I'd tried it with the stock v2 hubs and it didn't seem to be any better. Any ideas?
Sounds like your diff may not be tight enough or you have too much camber.
__________________
Leo Lorenzen
Xray Australia - Proline Australia - GForce Australia - Fantom Australia - Hearns Hobbies
ekt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2014, 07:15 AM   #15088
Tech Champion
 
tobamiester's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Tea drinking Limmey in NJ
Posts: 9,579
Trader Rating: 278 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to tobamiester Send a message via Yahoo to tobamiester
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ekt View Post
Sounds like your diff may not be tight enough or you have too much camber.
Solved it. CVA Pin installed incorrectly lol..

Last edited by tobamiester; 09-21-2014 at 11:35 AM.
tobamiester is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2014, 07:50 AM   #15089
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 156
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Not to disagree with the Team Durango guys, I take a slightly different view on "ride height" that I should've fully explained.

When I think of droop screws I am thinking what I call "mechanical ride height". By allowing more or less mechanical ride height, you can influence how much weight shifts around. For example, if you allow "full droop" in the rear, then as you decellerate the rear is allowed to come up higher and more weight transfers to the front. If you limit the amount of droop in the rear, then you can keep the weight lower on decelleration and transfer less weight to the front. The same effect happens left/right across the car as you corner.

When adjusting the preload collars on the shocks, I am adjusting "suspension sag" and spring preload.

My "running ride height" winds up being a net effect of these two. Maximum and minimum "mechanical ride height" can also be adjusted via shock travel limiters, but I'm sure that's covered elsewhere.

On my track and for my driving style...I prefer to minimize weight transferring around.

I have my max ride height set at 23/25. Loaded up race ready, I run ~1mm sag in front and ~2mm sag in rear. My running ride height ~22fr/23rear.

I hope all of that makes sense.
Wanderer77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2014, 09:48 AM   #15090
Tech Apprentice
 
keepitsteel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 69
Default

Awesome thank u Wander 77 and 13machine. I'll try both. For now I used a exotek 20 gram weight in the back through the lower wing mount using a zip tie. Is it me or does the mm3 (even on loose clay/dirt) still feel like it hauls out of the corners more than mm4. I guess the polarity of the motor has a lot to do with it.
keepitsteel is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
St Ives RC Club B4Bandit Australian Racing 16570 09-23-2017 03:48 AM
EPMTs check in here. (a subsidiary of TNT) overtki11 Singapore R/C Racers 55470 05-07-2017 11:57 PM
Team Durango DEX410 ASH93A Australian Racing 925 04-08-2013 09:51 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:32 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net