StupidHead

iTrader: (2)

If you're looking for something to buy, I would suggest getting a +8 chassis, top deck and the dirt spec rear brass piece. I was previously running the SV2 but have gone back to the above SV1 combo as the older car just works so much better on dirt. If you add the weight of a 4000 shorty lipo to the brass weight, it's not that far off a 6000 saddle or stick pack, but using the two together allows you to shove all of that weight down the back where it belongs.

Using the above, my Cougar is currently at 68% rear weight bias and weighs in at 1546grams. I've weighed up every combo of stick/saddle/shorty with the SV,+8,SV2,Dirt chassis and the combo that gives the perfect weight balance of 65-68% rear bias is the +8 with dirt spec plate. The full dirt spec chassis achieves the same, but it's too long and lazy.

I also run the alloy 0 trail hubs and the front arms reversed which gives about 4mm extra wheel base and adds to the rear bias. I've started now, so I might as well post my default setup...

Chassis : +8 Carbon, with +8 top deck, dirt spec nest, dirt spec plate mounted on top.
Front arms reversed
0 trail front hubs, low position
Rear hubs forward position
Front Shocks : 3.0 spring, 5 hole piston, 30W Losi, middle top, inner bottom
Rear Shocks : 2.5 spring, 3 hole piston, 27.5 Losi, middle top, inner bottom, short cups
Front Camber : Narrowest plate, no ball stud washers, outer hole on hub
Rear Camber : Narrowest plate, no ball stud washers, outer hole on hub, no spacers under plate
AnitSquat : 0 degress (4mm spacers under toe strap)
4 Degree Rear toe
0 Front toe
22mm ride height


Good luck!

dvsstrike

iTrader: (9)

I do agree the original sv works better, due to better weight dist. the new sv2 with the s1 chassis makes the sv2 a better choice. better gear box, diff and axles. On the sv2 as well the proline bulldog works wonder for the car as well. The sv2 with the svr front arms will also make the car turn in better. But if you have an sv i would suggest s1 sv2 chassis, svr med flex front arms, zero tail knuckle and 7.5 casters, plus here is a solution to your bull dog body, if you run the sv2 s1 chassis you can use that body.
tim

dodgeguy

iTrader: (208)

Very good info from you guys. I could allways cut the SV chassis down here at work on one of our mills to fit the body.

StupidHead

iTrader: (2)

The SV2 S1 chassis I am yet to try, but I did have success in the past using the SV1-S1 chassis with the dirt spec plate mounted 12mm rearward to extend the length. Are you running extra rear weight with the SV2 S1 chassis?

The SVR cab forward body will probably fit on the Sv1 with some slight trimming : http://pipskiracing.blogspot.com.au/...l-fit-sv2.html

gumtape

iTrader: (52)

I ran my new to me cougar in the 2wd mod club race and won the first heat while finishing 3rd overall. This is with a 13.5 motor and the wrong tires. I love the car. I am the only one with a mid motor buggy. I can't wait to tune it more.

Mirko

Hello,

yesterday I wanted to rebuild the Big Bore Shocks of my Schumacher Cougar SV. While letting the oil flowing out I realized that it was shimmering metallic with lots of particles in it. From cleaning the shock bodys and looking at them I thought that the surface coating might be chipping of, but I'm not quite sure.

Is that a known problem with Schumacher's Big Bore Shocks?

Instead of buying new shock bodys I thought about buying a Tamiya TRF shock kit from the TRF201/TRF502X Buggys (42198). Does anyone know if their length will fit in the Cougar SV?
Or would you recommend to use different shocks like Asso, Yokomo, Durango...

I'm new to Offroad and this is my first Buggy. I'll be thankful for your advice.

Mirko

jwill05

iTrader: (6)

I just picked up an sv2 off the forum I will be running indoor 17.5 and outdoor mod both on dirt. And I have a couple quick questions what pinions should i get for a 17.5 motor and an 8.5 mod motor. And which type of lipo should I go with shorty, saddle?

Thanks Justin

konasubs

iTrader: (342)

I will give my advise on that....but I also have a question....searching for the brand of springs that says OR...so on the top of spring where rate is etched mine say OR1.6 or OR 2.5.....I have one set of 2.5 in rear and want to buy another...came with used car....any help plz......as far as battery....I am running indoor 17.5 in Chico and I am running a 70 31....I may gear down a lil...I am not topping out til end of straights....you will love this car....MANY guys at my track are using b5m and they drive my car and cant believe the streering and smoothness....I run the saddle hold but put a shorty forward....you have to file the inside edges so battery will move forward all the way. I then have pad behind to hold in place....works great and gives car better balance.....for me....There are LOTS of set ups.....find whats best for your style....tx in advance with help on spring question guys...

light

iTrader: (11)

Hi There

I'm having a problem with the part number U3665 coming undone and all the shock out drains out of the shock

is there a fix for this?

Gorden

spu83

iTrader: (2)

Blue loctite.

gokarter64

i just drove my buddys cougar SV2 today and it is amazing. convinced me to buy one. but what chassis would work better on sticky clay? the s1 or the dirt spec?

roadblock

I use Teflon tape around the threads. comes off easy enough and leaves no residue on the shock body. Two or three wraps and the thing will never come loose by itself.

maizer

iTrader: (3)

take it apart clean the shock and cap with spray cleaner and then use blue thread lock.

maizer

iTrader: (3)

new paint