Tekin Rx8 soldering pictures and suggestions
#1
Tekin Rx8 soldering pictures and suggestions
Hi,
I never used the solder but I just ordered a Tekin RX8 + ESC. I need please few suggestions on the best soldering procedures and please few close shots of the RX8 motor soldered, then it will be up to me.
Thanks a lot in advance
I never used the solder but I just ordered a Tekin RX8 + ESC. I need please few suggestions on the best soldering procedures and please few close shots of the RX8 motor soldered, then it will be up to me.
Thanks a lot in advance
#2
Tekin has a video on their website to help people that aren't experienced with soldering.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5QktbPHdvQA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5QktbPHdvQA
#3
Thanks, but I already saw it but it shows the ESC soldering only, that's the reason I asked please for the motor soldering pictures/video.
Thanks
Thanks
#4
I have had problems with using a low quality soldering iron. NEVER take the cheap way out, its not worth it.
#5
#6
The solder tabs are solid and if the soldering is done right there should be litttle to NO chance of contact.
#7
Could you please post a close picture of a Tekin motor soldering ?
Thanks
Thanks
#8
I dont have a video or picture to show you, but your not building a rocket to the moon.
Its the same procedure just on three motor tabs instead of the 5 on the esc.
Solder them to the top A to A, B to B, C to C.
If you cant picture it, or figure it out, ask someone, one of your neighbors, or a friendly sales associate at lowes or homedepot in the tool department to either show you or do it for you.
It takes about a minute.
Its the same procedure just on three motor tabs instead of the 5 on the esc.
Solder them to the top A to A, B to B, C to C.
If you cant picture it, or figure it out, ask someone, one of your neighbors, or a friendly sales associate at lowes or homedepot in the tool department to either show you or do it for you.
It takes about a minute.
#10
Tech Lord
iTrader: (21)
If you'r enew to soldering, maybe this will help -
http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-el...ef-lesson.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-el...ef-lesson.html
#11
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
First buy a Weller 40W iron. It's inexpensive and transfers heat quickly.
Second buy good electronic/electrical solder not the one for plumbing.
Third it's not too hard to figure out. As said before wire the A from ESC to A on motor and so forth.
Fourth go to the LHS or track and see how others have done it and ask them to show it to you.
Second buy good electronic/electrical solder not the one for plumbing.
Third it's not too hard to figure out. As said before wire the A from ESC to A on motor and so forth.
Fourth go to the LHS or track and see how others have done it and ask them to show it to you.
Last edited by AreCee; 01-13-2010 at 10:55 AM.
#12
No point in useing a cheapo iron on $300-400 esc motor systems. The Weller 40 watt is too weak. I bring a Weller 80watt to the track with me, but it has no balls compared to my Hakko 936.
Get a Hakko 936 station and some Hudy Ultimate solder. Also get some battery bars (for those old fashioned nicad/nihm packs people used to use)
And practice tinning and soldering wires to the battery bars.
Solder a few bars together to make it harder to solder wire onto them byheat soaking them with a cold iron. Notice that a super hot iron can solder wires onto the bars quickly without putting too much heat into the bar.
You should be able to solder a wire to one of the bars and then pick up the cold side of the bar without burning yourself. The point of this practice is to get good at soldering quickly so you don't melt the components on your esc board or motor endbell.
Another test, get a deans plug. Solder 12 or even 10 gauge wire to it. Did you discolor the plastic or melt it. Deans plugs have a habit of letting go of the plugs bar if you overheat them. After soldering to a deans plug, you should be able to pick it up by the plastic (care don't bump the hot bars) without it being hot. If the plastic is too hot to hang onto, your iron is too weak and your useing too much time trying to heat up the bar.
If you can solder bars and deans your ready to move on to esc's. With the Tekins, I servotape them to a smooth ceramic cutting board so its stuck in place. I solder up the esc, then mount it and the motor in the car. Then I solder to the motor. The motor is easier to solder to.
Get a Hakko 936 station and some Hudy Ultimate solder. Also get some battery bars (for those old fashioned nicad/nihm packs people used to use)
And practice tinning and soldering wires to the battery bars.
Solder a few bars together to make it harder to solder wire onto them byheat soaking them with a cold iron. Notice that a super hot iron can solder wires onto the bars quickly without putting too much heat into the bar.
You should be able to solder a wire to one of the bars and then pick up the cold side of the bar without burning yourself. The point of this practice is to get good at soldering quickly so you don't melt the components on your esc board or motor endbell.
Another test, get a deans plug. Solder 12 or even 10 gauge wire to it. Did you discolor the plastic or melt it. Deans plugs have a habit of letting go of the plugs bar if you overheat them. After soldering to a deans plug, you should be able to pick it up by the plastic (care don't bump the hot bars) without it being hot. If the plastic is too hot to hang onto, your iron is too weak and your useing too much time trying to heat up the bar.
If you can solder bars and deans your ready to move on to esc's. With the Tekins, I servotape them to a smooth ceramic cutting board so its stuck in place. I solder up the esc, then mount it and the motor in the car. Then I solder to the motor. The motor is easier to solder to.
Last edited by Zerodefect; 01-13-2010 at 10:47 AM.
#13
Actually I slide large heat shrink tubing down my wires until they bend a little over the post. Then shrink them with a heat gun.
Just incase a wire pops off its a lot less likely to wiggle over and make contact. or if someone drops a washer on my car, or my trck sucks up a gum wrapper etc, etc.
#14
I use liquid electricians tape to cover all the exposed metal contacts as I am bit paranoid.
#15
Thanks a lot, much appreciated.
Now it is up to me, I feel slightly nervous, but some practice is on my to do list.
I have also been suggested to use flux cream before soldering the tin over cables terminals, I think this has to be done too.
Thanks mates
Now it is up to me, I feel slightly nervous, but some practice is on my to do list.
I have also been suggested to use flux cream before soldering the tin over cables terminals, I think this has to be done too.
Thanks mates