Any secret to getting the Pinion to stay on?
#2
put a small dab of blue loctite on the set screw.
Matt
Matt
#3
If you crank down the set screw than just pop it back loose a hair, Then crank it back down it will stay on. And lock tite of course.
#5
This may be unrelated to your issue but your post made me think of it so I am posting!
I saw a friend one day filing his setscrews nice and flat on the bottom, saying he thought more contact area would be better. He has since thrown all of them away and started over. Now we both file a sharp edge(if its not already there) on the bottom where it hits the motor shaft, not a single loose pinion since.
I saw a friend one day filing his setscrews nice and flat on the bottom, saying he thought more contact area would be better. He has since thrown all of them away and started over. Now we both file a sharp edge(if its not already there) on the bottom where it hits the motor shaft, not a single loose pinion since.
#6
put some thread lock on the set screw/motor shaft
get some NEW set screws
use good wrench and be liberal with the thread-lock
get some NEW set screws
use good wrench and be liberal with the thread-lock
#8
+100 !
You might think a set of good precision ground hex wrenches are expensive till you have to do maintainence on your R/C with them . Its well worth the 40-60 dolllars for a set IMO .
Like the others said , blue locktite is a must for pinion screws , make sure to let it cure before you use it also .
#10
Tech Regular
Never skimp on quality tools that you'll use often. Bad idea and you WILL regret it at some point.
Because the pinion screw is tightened more tightly than other screws, I would suggest replacing it either at regular intervals or as soon as it starts to slip.
The screws are dirt cheap in comparison to the headache of having one strip while ON. You can run it until it loosens on it's own (sucks if you're racing often), or get a higher quality hex driver to get it out.
I like MIP/Thorpe with Hudy a distant second.
MIP 2.5 Ball head + Hudy 2.0 ball head are my two favorite drivers
Was told to use a straight hex driver for the pinion screw, this by a guy that has proven to be right in regards to wrenching on RC time and time again.
Loctite or some other kind of threadlock would be great. I've done it with and without threadlock, and with=pinion screw stays tight FAR more often than without
Because the pinion screw is tightened more tightly than other screws, I would suggest replacing it either at regular intervals or as soon as it starts to slip.
The screws are dirt cheap in comparison to the headache of having one strip while ON. You can run it until it loosens on it's own (sucks if you're racing often), or get a higher quality hex driver to get it out.
I like MIP/Thorpe with Hudy a distant second.
MIP 2.5 Ball head + Hudy 2.0 ball head are my two favorite drivers
Was told to use a straight hex driver for the pinion screw, this by a guy that has proven to be right in regards to wrenching on RC time and time again.
Loctite or some other kind of threadlock would be great. I've done it with and without threadlock, and with=pinion screw stays tight FAR more often than without
#12
You can normally pop them loose pretty easy. I loctite my pinion to the shaft in all my 1/8 rigs and loctite the set screw to the pinion. Haven't had one fall off and they aren't bad if you need to change them out.
#13
No real need for lock tight , you do need a good 1/16th wrench....