Cain

iTrader: (294)

I am looking into running a capacitor on an LRP IPC style speed control like the V6, V7.1, or the SR . Is this possible and ok to do? I figure I can trim back alittle of the wire covering and then wire the capacitor to that.

Anyone done anything like this to other speed controls?

Giuseppe

Just wondering what exactly you're talking about.

Do you want to put them on the speed control toavoid having to mount them on every motor, or is there something special about putting them on the ESC?

Normally they are put on motors to help reduce interference with teh radio signals...helps stop glitching. May motors now adays come with premounted caps in the endbell ("solid mount"), and therefore avoids the tedious process of soldering them.

I personnally have never heard of sodlering capacitors to the speed control, only to the motor to help prevent radio interference. If someone else has a better idea about this, please go ahead and correct me.

As for whether it is safe to do on your IPC, if it is safe to do it on the others, than it shouldn't cause any problems with the IPC.

Hope that this helps.

Ybakoff

If you put a cap on the speed contoller it charges under braking and when you excellerate again it uses the charge in the cap to give faster excelleration. Like the Noval gt7 comes with a cap.

miniRMAC

i had one on my 12th scale with a lrp ipc v6 and i soldered servo wirs to it and pluged it in my batt spot on my receiver

KEITH

iTrader: (42)

YOU SOLDER THE CAP TO SERVO WIRES THEN PLUGED INTO BAT SPOT ON REC IS THIS CORRECT? WHAT DID IT DO?

miniRMAC

yea wires off of an old servo soit was just the wires and then i pluged it in the bat spot on my receiver

Ybakoff

I would be weary about doing this. I would talk to some one first. The whole idea of the cap is to charge up under brakes and gives a boost when you go again. If you put a cap on your Battery pos + neg it will charge up all the time. Have a look on some of the sites for the kit for the LRP Q2 I think there was a worlds kit that you could buy.

popsracer

Guys;

When installing a power capacitor on any ESC:

The + (pos) goes to the Batt wire and the - (neg) goes to the Motor wire. (Novaks come with a plug)

If you connect both wires to the battery, then there will be no benefit from the capacitor.

The best type to use is Electrolytic, 10v, 4700uf.

SpeedyTC3

This would more than likely help if you're having a glitching problem and/or steering loss under acceleration by providing a little extra power to the receiver, however, the power capacitor being discussed here (I would imagine the cap we call the 'Garbage Can') is to help with acceleration as like posted above, the power capacitor will charge under braking conditions and provide extra power for acceleration when back on the throttle.

DO NOT USE SERVO WIRES FOR THIS! I fried a 12th scale in 2003 in Cleveland running mod doing this. The wires heated up when yanking down the straight that the insulation just melted and the pos/neg leads for the cap just bonded together.

Stick with 14 or 16 guage wires.

Tee

Pops, please double check that info you provide regarding the power capacitor attachment points. It does not match up with instructions provided by Novak, LRP, or..... Hheheh, Tekin.

When you say that there is no benefit in wiring it as Novak specifies, what "benefit" did YOU expect? I am under the impression that it's to keep the battery and speed control cooler, which provides more punch than a hot battery pack. Actually, I looked at Novak's web page, and they state the power cap is to "prevent damage".

I went ahead and modelled (ie, simple drawing) the "alternative" power cap attachment, and to my uneducated mind, it would make your motor more sluggish, because from a standing start (for instance) the cap is discharged and needs to take on a charge (4700 mfd's worth). Then, when you reduce or release throttle, the capacitor will try to discharge, but the point is to try to reduce the motor output, not power the motor with some excess power stored up (again, 4700 mfd's worth)... And if you actually dip into using the brake portion of the controller, then you're also trying to make that same cap dump that same energy (4700 mfd's worth) through the brake fets. Bottom line is, I think you should try the wiring layout Novak says to use.

mafiaracers

iTrader: (22)

I run caps everywhere. I run Mtroniks Cirrus ESC's in my cars both with beer-keg sized capacitors attached. Then I've got two small caps plugged into my reciever to help power the servo. Running stock, its a must. The servo caps are optional, but for mod racing, you can really feel them working under heavy acceleration.