Brian C

iTrader: (34)

I read a few pages back that in the stock 2wd class brushed motors were faster than the roar 13.5 brushless pkg. Is this accurate? I'm looking to build a B4 and need advice on electronics. I want to get a factory team and trying to see how bad it's going to get!

forwardonly

iTrader: (3)

I have heard the same thing. I currently run a money motor in my B4. With fresh brushes and a cut com with lipo on my GT7. That thing flies. I haven't tried putting my 13.5 in the buggy yet. It is on my list of to dos. I will say that the brushed is a pain in relation the brushless. Last time out I had to tear my motor down, clean it, fix a hung brush, replace a broken brush spring, and I should have cut the com, but I didn't bring the lathe. I really should have taken care of most of this at home before the race, but I wasn't planning on running the B4. Pretty sure I will replace it with a 13.5 soon. Nobody at the track uses brushed any more.

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

It's all in what you want to do, if a milli sec is worth all the time and maintenance then use the brushed, if I owned nothing and was going to buy a new set-up, I would go brushless. They really make it easy..

CRCDUDE

iTrader: (50)

There is NO WAY a 27T brushed motor is anywhere close to a 13.5. I ahve ran both and i can tell you the 13.5 ( now Super Stock by ROAR rules) will cold smoke any 27T motor out there. A 17.5 on the other hand is a much fairer fight for the 27T but if properly geared a 17.5 will still have faster laps and better runtime.

Bottom line is, yer wasting your time trying to run a brushed motor in any motor limited class.

burnineyes

iTrader: (17)

I agree with the above posts. The brushed motors may be a tick faster when they are new and fresh, but quickly decline in power every run. In order to stay competitive I had to bring 2 new motors and a few extra sets of brushes and springs and lathe and spend at least half of my down time between races prepping my motor to stay fast. With brushless I am still running the same motor that I ran last year and it still competes with the fastest guys on the track. I have not even looked at it lately, much less worried about burnt brushes!
Now that you have an idea about how much better brushless is in THAT aspect, there is even more to it! A brushless motor is generally 10-15% more efficient than its brushed counterpart. More runtime means I can gear my car to go a little faster if I can use it. Brushless motors can run hotter than brushed too. 180F sustained for 15 minutes will kill a set of brushes quite easily.

Brian C

iTrader: (34)

ok,so i'm sld on the brushless setup! I figured it would be the way to go. Now for the endless mine is better than yours. Which setup to use? Price is a consideration but don't want to have to buy twice. Sensored or not? What do the rules typically permit? I have to try and get info from my local tracks I guess. Seems like everyone has their own rules now.

brickshouse

iTrader: (7)

get a sensored for sure, alot smoother....Novak has the Havok combo with ecs and motor for $140 @ Stormerhobbies.com, only bad thing is you cant go any lower than a 8.5 bl motor. That is the cheapest and most reliable setup I have found. Not to mention their customer service is great. If you planned on running a motor faster than that, the gtb combo is 250. Or, Novak just came out with(only at teamnovak.com) the kinetic esc; speedo and ballistic motor combo is 285, it comes with a pc link to fine tune through your computer. good luck to ya

burnineyes

iTrader: (17)

You really need to know what class you will be racing in to get an idea of what you need. Like you already know most tracks will have different rules regarding what you can use for a motor. Most do not have rules on ESCs.
If you race a mod class where its run whatcha brung then any of the popular systems on the market will be more than enough. Keep in mind for a buggy you will not need a 3.5 turn motor, something like a 7.5 is usually fast enough for the most talented drivers, and too fast for most average drivers.
If you run a stock or spec class then the ESC can make a big difference. The slower motors can use all the extra power the ESC can allow. Most spec classes are 10.5, and most stock classes are 17.5
The Mamba Max Pro is likely the best on the market right now, but may challenge you in getting it mounted in the B4. The Tekin RS/RSpro is prob just about as good, and has a smaller footprint, but you will pay out the yinyang for it. If I was going to run stock buggy I would buy the Mamba Max Pro, a Tekin motor, and remove the fan from the ESC for an easy fit if needed. The fan never comes on in my T4 with mod motors, and only comes on for a minute at a time with huge Lipos and mod motors.

terminalpvd

iTrader: (1)

The Novak havok setup is wonderful, no maintenance, easy to setup, wonderful customer service(I broke the wire to the capicitor and fried it), no glitching with a good radio system. I have a 13.5 and a 10.5 and they will let my B4 go as fast as I can drive it, which is hit or miss every lap. Usually it is hitting the wall or the pipes.

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

If your on a budget, or just getting into racing, I would look at the Havoc, good deal for the money. If you are looking to be more competitive, then the havoc may disappoint, because when you starting gearing them more aggressively, they start to thermal, not burn up, they will shut down for a few seconds till they cool. In a race---those secs turn into laps..lol