SC10 questions
10-25-2009, 08:20 PM
#1
SC10 questions
I was just wondering what electronics everyone uses in there sc10's? like what esc, motor, and battery (mah, and c ratings). Also what tires work best for high grip hard packed clay that is never dusty or looomy. and what diff does everyone run the ball diff or the stock gear diff. i've been hearing about alot of guys blowing up their gear diffs
10-25-2009, 08:34 PM
#2
Hey, I am rolling a sidewinder 4600kv system with 20c 3200mah batteries. For your track, the stocks would not be too bad but bowties would work good if they dont water and goosebumps if they do. I run the gear diff and it is working great...good luck.
10-26-2009, 12:05 AM
#3
Registered User
I run a Castle Mamba Max with a traxxas 3500 brushless motor, and a Reedy 5000 mah lipo 20c. i run proline switches in the front and bowties in the rear.
10-26-2009, 12:54 AM
#4
i like bowties front and rear unless its muddy in any way. the front clog up with mud really bad, but they dont help weigh it down so they still stick pretty well
for blue groove i would use bowties or goosebumps
im running an mx3fg and receiver in my otherwise stock sc10
for blue groove i would use bowties or goosebumps
im running an mx3fg and receiver in my otherwise stock sc10
10-26-2009, 10:50 AM
#6
Hey Gang,
I am getting back in to racing, just for the winter. I am going to racing an SC10 on a carpet off road course at my local track. We are limited to a 13.5 brushless set up. Can someone recommend a controller and motor set up? Am I better of buying the GTB (1710) controller, then picking up a different brand motor or should I just buy the Havoc Pro Brushless system (3134)? There are so many choices, but I am not sure what I need to buy.
Thanks
I am getting back in to racing, just for the winter. I am going to racing an SC10 on a carpet off road course at my local track. We are limited to a 13.5 brushless set up. Can someone recommend a controller and motor set up? Am I better of buying the GTB (1710) controller, then picking up a different brand motor or should I just buy the Havoc Pro Brushless system (3134)? There are so many choices, but I am not sure what I need to buy.
Thanks
10-26-2009, 01:55 PM
#7
mamba castle pro with the 4600 motor and using a fubata 4pk setup.
10-26-2009, 04:54 PM
#9
Motor: Reedy Stockstar
ESC: Novak Rooster 12T
Battery: TrakPower 4900mAh 2S1P LiPo
Radio/Receiver: Futaba 3PM FASST 2.4GHz/Futaba R603FF
Servo: Futaba S9452 w/Dynamite billet servo horn, outside hole
Tires (Outdoor): Pro-Line Slayer Switch, moderate grooving (got a set of HPI Maxxis Trepadors on the way)
Tires (Indoor/Parking Lot): Pro-Line Slayer Switch, no grooving
Rear Gear: "SP Spool" (stock gear diff packed with Silly Putty)
Options: MIP C-CVD driveshafts, Factory Team shocks, Factory Team titanium turnbuckles, inboard front camber link ballstuds mounted upside-down, RPM RC10GT2 front lower control arms, Racer's Edge billet rear axle carriers, dual rear cooling fans, Zero Tolerance Mfg LED lightbar, Zero Tolerance Mfg 2nd generation prototype Wide-5 wheels
ESC: Novak Rooster 12T
Battery: TrakPower 4900mAh 2S1P LiPo
Radio/Receiver: Futaba 3PM FASST 2.4GHz/Futaba R603FF
Servo: Futaba S9452 w/Dynamite billet servo horn, outside hole
Tires (Outdoor): Pro-Line Slayer Switch, moderate grooving (got a set of HPI Maxxis Trepadors on the way)
Tires (Indoor/Parking Lot): Pro-Line Slayer Switch, no grooving
Rear Gear: "SP Spool" (stock gear diff packed with Silly Putty)
Options: MIP C-CVD driveshafts, Factory Team shocks, Factory Team titanium turnbuckles, inboard front camber link ballstuds mounted upside-down, RPM RC10GT2 front lower control arms, Racer's Edge billet rear axle carriers, dual rear cooling fans, Zero Tolerance Mfg LED lightbar, Zero Tolerance Mfg 2nd generation prototype Wide-5 wheels
10-26-2009, 05:49 PM
#10
Motor: Castle 4600Kv
ESC: Mamba Max
Batt: 3300mAH NiMH Team Orion Rocket Pack OR 3600mAH Reedy Wolfpack
Tires/Wheels: Proline, Pre-Mount Split Six wrapped with Bowties front and rear
The ONLY mod: FN Cuda's front skid/brace.
That's it. And it's a blast!
ESC: Mamba Max
Batt: 3300mAH NiMH Team Orion Rocket Pack OR 3600mAH Reedy Wolfpack
Tires/Wheels: Proline, Pre-Mount Split Six wrapped with Bowties front and rear
The ONLY mod: FN Cuda's front skid/brace.
That's it. And it's a blast!
10-28-2009, 05:00 AM
#11
What about rear bearing carriers I've heard about 1 to 1.5 degrees really helps
10-28-2009, 07:04 AM
#12
I was just wondering what electronics everyone uses in there sc10's? like what esc, motor, and battery (mah, and c ratings). Also what tires work best for high grip hard packed clay that is never dusty or looomy. and what diff does everyone run the ball diff or the stock gear diff. i've been hearing about alot of guys blowing up their gear diffs
Dont worry about what the Jones's are usning, what do you want to do with your truck? and go from there.
The gear diffs are fine, all a little diff grease or diff oil and it will tighten them up similar to the ball diff. If you have an extra $50 to $60 change to the ball diff. The difference is noticable but it may not be worth $60 to each individual driver. For most the gear diff is fine.
Electronics - Most stick with there favorite brand or use what they pulled out of a different truck. I have ran BL motors 8.5, 10.5, and 13.5 all with the Tekin RS Pro esc, and from my experiance, each time I switched to a slower motor the faster my lap times increased, and that was on an 1/8 scale track.
Batteries its all about run time. For this truck anything 20c (on a lipo) or up will be perfectly fine. Mah is for runtime. Buy more mah if you want to have longer runs.
Generally a 5000mah with a 13.5 will get you around a half hour.
From what I can tell Goose bumps will give you the best all around traction.
10-28-2009, 09:43 PM
#13
Dont worry about what the Jones's are usning, what do you want to do with your truck? and go from there.
The gear diffs are fine, all a little diff grease or diff oil and it will tighten them up similar to the ball diff. If you have an extra $50 to $60 change to the ball diff. The difference is noticable but it may not be worth $60 to each individual driver. For most the gear diff is fine.
Electronics - Most stick with there favorite brand or use what they pulled out of a different truck. I have ran BL motors 8.5, 10.5, and 13.5 all with the Tekin RS Pro esc, and from my experiance, each time I switched to a slower motor the faster my lap times increased, and that was on an 1/8 scale track.
Batteries its all about run time. For this truck anything 20c (on a lipo) or up will be perfectly fine. Mah is for runtime. Buy more mah if you want to have longer runs.
Generally a 5000mah with a 13.5 will get you around a half hour.
From what I can tell Goose bumps will give you the best all around traction.
The gear diffs are fine, all a little diff grease or diff oil and it will tighten them up similar to the ball diff. If you have an extra $50 to $60 change to the ball diff. The difference is noticable but it may not be worth $60 to each individual driver. For most the gear diff is fine.
Electronics - Most stick with there favorite brand or use what they pulled out of a different truck. I have ran BL motors 8.5, 10.5, and 13.5 all with the Tekin RS Pro esc, and from my experiance, each time I switched to a slower motor the faster my lap times increased, and that was on an 1/8 scale track.
Batteries its all about run time. For this truck anything 20c (on a lipo) or up will be perfectly fine. Mah is for runtime. Buy more mah if you want to have longer runs.
Generally a 5000mah with a 13.5 will get you around a half hour.
From what I can tell Goose bumps will give you the best all around traction.
10-28-2009, 10:01 PM
#14
Tech Rookie
Iam running a GTB with a Novak 10.5 and I love it.
10-28-2009, 11:07 PM
#15
We will run mine in open when our track opens up.
On loamy hard pack clay with the T4 lipo setup modfied a bit.
- SP gt 1.1 w/10.5 motor
- 5200 40c SMC's
- airtronics 94360Z .07 speed 125 oz.
- Bowties in back and stocks tires in front
- All the FT T4 upgrades including ball diff and shocks.
- Blue anodized aluminum ball bearing steering assembly for Associated T4 made by GPM Racing
On loamy hard pack clay with the T4 lipo setup modfied a bit.