well, when i saw this thread i got bit by the bug, and i broke down and did it again...i will post pictures when i get home. i am still refining it though.
well, when i saw this thread i got bit by the bug, and i broke down and did it again...i will post pictures when i get home. i am still refining it though.
I started mine as I had the truck CHEAP and was bored over last winter.....buggy was only natural once I got one.
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Mid-Motor Speed-T,Mid-Motor xxx-cr, 2 Slash's, XXX-S, Mini-T, JRX Pro (still runs!)
Hot Bodies Ve8
my last one didnt work out so well. i think i was because i made the chassis to long(made a new chassis out of G10) this time i just used the stock one and braced it with delrin. how do you guys mount your bodies, the back of mine wont go down all the way because the battery stops it.
my last one didnt work out so well. i think i was because i made the chassis to long(made a new chassis out of G10) this time i just used the stock one and braced it with delrin. how do you guys mount your bodies, the back of mine wont go down all the way because the battery stops it.
My truck fits fine as plenty of room. Raises up about 1/4" than the stock height.
The buggy is a soft fit, I'm going to use Velcro on the front nose and the sides to secure it. Currently has a Digity 5300Mah Hard case lipo in it.
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Mid-Motor Speed-T,Mid-Motor xxx-cr, 2 Slash's, XXX-S, Mini-T, JRX Pro (still runs!)
Hot Bodies Ve8
y2kgtp, got pics of the buggy with the battery out?
How do these handle on the track?Whats the benefits of the mid motor conversion?
I plan on picking up an older bk1 and doing this to it.
the mid motor conversion makes them turn a lot better then a regular 2wd buggy and they jump more level. mine handles awesome on the track and i beat a lot of people around the turns
When the buggy is setup up w/ the motor on the rear the motor increases the gyro affect and increases the chances that the buggy pulls the front wheels up while under power. When you switch it around the motor is actually pulling the front wheels down so the car is much more level under power. This lets you run those softer springs in the rear that will let your buggy roll back off the line & then when you hammer it the buggy will dig in but stay level instead of popping the front end up. It is very ideal for winter racing on blue groove tracks. If your running on something more forgiving then I would stick w/ the standard buggy lay out because you need all the rear traction you can get.
When the buggy is setup up w/ the motor on the rear the motor increases the gyro affect and increases the chances that the buggy pulls the front wheels up while under power. When you switch it around the motor is actually pulling the front wheels down so the car is much more level under power. This lets you run those softer springs in the rear that will let your buggy roll back off the line & then when you hammer it the buggy will dig in but stay level instead of popping the front end up. It is very ideal for winter racing on blue groove tracks. If your running on something more forgiving then I would stick w/ the standard buggy lay out because you need all the rear traction you can get.
Unless you're switching to a 4 gear gearbox there is NO CHANGE WHATSOEVER on the effect of the motor. In fact by going mid motor and not going to 4 gears, you're losing traction as the motor's pushing down the front wheels under power, but lifting the rears (whereas with the motor at the back both sets of wheels are pushed down).
I'm sure the reverse rotation of the motor has some negative impact, but prob not as much as it might seem. The rotor is only a piece of the rotational mass of the drivetrain. The Rims, tires, metal axles and differential are all rotating the correct direction.
I'm sure this was more of an issue with older brushed motors and the larger armature with more rotational mass. (I should weigh one of each brushed and brushless )
The car squats under acceleration, and the nose dives under braking.
Regardless of the above I am working on a new motor plate with an extra idler gear on the outside so the motor rotation is normal. One less variable to worry about.
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Mid-Motor Speed-T,Mid-Motor xxx-cr, 2 Slash's, XXX-S, Mini-T, JRX Pro (still runs!)
Hot Bodies Ve8
I'm sure the reverse rotation of the motor has some negative impact, but prob not as much as it might seem. The rotor is only a piece of the rotational mass of the drivetrain. The Rims, tires, metal axles and differential are all rotating the correct direction.
I'm sure this was more of an issue with older brushed motors and the larger armature with more rotational mass. (I should weigh one of each brushed and brushless )
The car squats under acceleration, and the nose dives under braking.
Regardless of the above I am working on a new motor plate with an extra idler gear on the outside so the motor rotation is normal. One less variable to worry about.
Your car with only 3 gears and the motor in front HAS TO HAVE the rotor still rotating in the same direction as before. Just because you've turned the can around and have it rotating IN THE CAN in the opposite direction doesn't mean that WITH REGARDS TO THE CAR the rotational direction has changed. It it had, then your car would go in reverse.
Your car with only 3 gears and the motor in front HAS TO HAVE the rotor still rotating in the same direction as before. Just because you've turned the can around and have it rotating IN THE CAN in the opposite direction doesn't mean that WITH REGARDS TO THE CAR the rotational direction has changed. It it had, then your car would go in reverse.
The motor is set to run reverse rotation.
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Mid-Motor Speed-T,Mid-Motor xxx-cr, 2 Slash's, XXX-S, Mini-T, JRX Pro (still runs!)
Hot Bodies Ve8
Unless you're switching to a 4 gear gearbox there is NO CHANGE WHATSOEVER on the effect of the motor. In fact by going mid motor and not going to 4 gears, you're losing traction as the motor's pushing down the front wheels under power, but lifting the rears (whereas with the motor at the back both sets of wheels are pushed down).
There is definitely some effect and a 4 gear is optimum but having just acquired a 3 gear X-Factory kit I can assure you it is not enough to overcome weight transfer under acceleration. To me and at least my driving style the faults of the 3 gear (edit: I meant do not) out weigh the faults of the rear motor configuration. I raced it for the first time this past weekend and I felt it was off some in the traction department, it was pretty easily cured by going from mini pins to more aggressive bow ties (at least on that night at that track, everywhere is different).
Besides if it was that bad there would be a whole lot of touring cars that didn't work, you know, like the TRF415.
There is definitely some effect and a 4 gear is optimum but having just acquired a 3 gear X-Factory kit I can assure you it is not enough to overcome weight transfer under acceleration. To me and at least my driving style the faults of the 3 gear out weigh the faults of the rear motor configuration. I raced it for the first time this past weekend and I felt it was off some in the traction department, it was pretty easily cured by going from mini pins to more aggressive bow ties (at least on that night at that track, everywhere is different).
Besides if it was that bad there would be a whole lot of touring cars that didn't work, you know, like the TRF415.
What kind of track surface are you on? Just curious.....
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Mid-Motor Speed-T,Mid-Motor xxx-cr, 2 Slash's, XXX-S, Mini-T, JRX Pro (still runs!)
Hot Bodies Ve8
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