Heat Issues with my Losi 8ight 2.0E

[Neu_Racer]

Originally Posted by LosiRox

Wish I could but I dont have a temp gun. I am getting one this week. Let me ask this, are temp issues common in all Brushless 1/8 scale buggies ?? It sounds like most of you are getting close to having heat issues as well. What are your experiences ?? And thank you for the help guys....even though there is some arguing going on , the info is pretty helpful.

Ya, I apologize for the arguing. Not my intention on what is a pretty cool forum so far.
I have since let it go and realized nothing will come of a conversation with him.

Anyway, I ran an RC8 with the MMM 2200kv system on 4,5,and 6S and never had an issue. I only used 4S on the track with stock gearing and after 15 minutes I was warm, but I could rest a hand on the motor/ESC w/o a problem.

Fans work great, gearing down is the most effective, and if using a 2.4Ghz radio turn your throttle EPA down by 10-15% or so. Should give you some extra laps before reaching the same temp.

[ultragraffics]

How large of a track are you running on?

I too run the Losi system with no problems thus far. I drove mine initially with the 2100kv and it was too much for the tracks around here. I switched to the Losi 1700kv and it has been flawless. I run the 15t pinion still and may try the 16 to see the difference.

I also turned my drag brake to 4%. If you are using allot of brake it could be part of the problem.

How many runs on this car/kit? The torque of these motors can chew through the diff cups quickly and can notch them. Not sure if that binding would spike the heat but its something to take a look at.

Temp is an issue with anything electric. We all try and gear these things to the moon and drive them to the limit for 10 or 15 minutes not counting warmup.

I too turn my throttle EPA down and also do the same for my brake EPA.

[glassdoctor]

Jeeze guys, it's not that simple so you can stop bichin like the other guy is a moron. Every track and driver is different. The gearing isn't that far off so it probably is not the real issue anyway.

4s, 2100kv in a Losi (43/13 diffs) and I assume about a 46t spur? (didn't list the spur did he?) Typical gearing should be in the 13-15 range. Small track, so I would GUESS 13 or 14 would be good.

Gearing can create problems if you get too far out of the sweet spot... either direction. GENERALLY, if the motor is ok and the esc is thermalling, try gearing DOWN. If the motor is hot, then try gearing up (assuming it's not already a rather tall gear) and if both are hot, probably gear down or back off the aggressive driving a little... look for other things that may be stressing the system.

Sometimes it's just the track and the driver. A lot of braking, or a hooked up track or a real loose track... can make everything run hot. Doesn't matter what size the track is either. There has been talk on here in the past that makes it sound like only a big track can be hard on the cars... not true.

Without actual temps on the motor and esc, it's hard to even guess what's going on

[glassdoctor]

sorry guys, I missed the last 2 posts before mine. I agree that the 2100 is a lot of motor. 1700-1900 is better, period... for any size track. And I agree that brakes may be part of the issue. Electric cars don't like being driven like nitros.... grab full wood, then lock up all fours, and repeat.

[Jube]

Originally Posted by glassdoctor

Gearing can create problems if you get too far out of the sweet spot... either direction. GENERALLY, if the motor is ok and the esc is thermalling, try gearing DOWN. If the motor is hot, then try gearing up (assuming it's not already a rather tall gear) and if both are hot, probably gear down or back off the aggressive driving a little... look for other things that may be stressing the system.

Sometimes it's just the track and the driver. A lot of braking, or a hooked up track or a real loose track... can make everything run hot.

Without actual temps on the motor and esc, it's hard to even guess what's going on

This is where I was heading if he gave us temps. As you said, without individual temps its pretty hard to speculate. Truth is there may not be a problem with the setup, it may just be him being too aggressive.

[LosiRox]

I appreciate all of the help.....This is what is so great about forums. I wouldnt think its me being too aggressive. Ive been driving 1/10 scale offroad for 13 years and although this is my first rodeo with 1/8 scale....its actually alot smoother and easier to drive so Im not on and off of the throttle. I have a small novak fan mounted on the esc...could I and do the make a larger fan for the ESC ???

Originally Posted by LosiRox

I appreciate all of the help.....This is what is so great about forums. I wouldnt think its me being too aggressive. Ive been driving 1/10 scale offroad for 13 years and although this is my first rodeo with 1/8 scale....its actually alot smoother and easier to drive so Im not on and off of the throttle. I have a small novak fan mounted on the esc...could I and do the make a larger fan for the ESC ???

Hi,
In fact, there are right and wrong things :
This Xcelorin ESC can be good and run with a right temp if it's right set-up !
I think you have the combo with the 2100 kv ?
Many people said that you must try an undergearing, and other people said you to try overgearing.
In fact you have the 2 solutions, if you have the 2100kv in 4S, you will have to gear it with the standard 15T for the beginning in this car. Of course if you have a 12T and if it's undergeared, it will have some heat issues because you will be always on full throttle to run fast ! But you can't put a 19T because it will not have enough power to handle it, and then will overthermal ! Then in those cases, try to beging with 15T and go in the Losi software to change some set ups : the timing may be set up at "high", ( a lower timing is not a solution with a sensorless motor like this one ) don't ask me why but, I tried it and it's better like that.
It's the same thing for the initial acceleration. The limitation of EPA will not change anything about thermal issues, but you can set up the "exponential" for throttle near -20% or -30%, then you will not have the wheel spinning...
In fact I try to explain you, that you may try to gear it with the "most used" pinion, 15T,with a higher timing but broke the throttle curve with you radio exponential set up ! It allows you to not push the throttle to much, because you have more timing but with more gearing and a broken curve !
In this way you don't ask to much to your combo...
I think 8% of Drag brake is really high, you may try 4 % max, but it's my opinion, I know you maybe need it but, try 4% to check thermal differences.
Maybee there's a problem with the internal thermal compound between the heat sink and components ?
What's about warranty ?
If you try all the solutions the people gave you, then try an other ESC, I agree I have sell it for a Tekin one !
I hope it will help,
Bye !

[LosiRox]

Thank you very much.....that was very helpful. I am going to try several things this weekend at the track and see what helps and what hurts. I am going to get the Tekin RX8 eventually but right now I have to use the Losi.