Deans Connector
08-17-2009, 06:17 PM
#16
Tech Rookie
There are some videos on youtube you should check out. Just search "soldering deans connectors" and you will find them.
08-17-2009, 06:24 PM
#17
No...you got to strip the wires, tin the wires, slide the shrink down the esc wires, tin the deans plug, solder the wire and plug together, and slide the heat shrink down and shrink it to the exposed parts. Some people use flux so you want to take that into account too. Youtube it...
08-17-2009, 07:15 PM
#18
No...you got to strip the wires, tin the wires, slide the shrink down the esc wires, tin the deans plug, solder the wire and plug together, and slide the heat shrink down and shrink it to the exposed parts. Some people use flux so you want to take that into account too. Youtube it...
.But i am going to youtube it.
08-18-2009, 07:08 AM
#21
You need a hot iron to do the deans. Like 700 degrees
08-18-2009, 08:28 AM
#23
Let me re-phrase that.
The less time you have heat on the deans the better.
The less time you have heat on the deans the better.
08-18-2009, 08:30 AM
#24
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
I assume we're talking Dean's 2-pin Ultra plugs? Just buy a pack with both male and female plugs in it, you'll end up using them later I promise. You can do it with a cheap 60W iron just fine. Be sure to tin the iron tip. Then tin the ESC wires. Scuff the Dean's connectors on the side you're going to solder to with a Dremel, rough sandpaper, etc. Then tin the Dean's. I hold mine with Visegrips. Also, what ESC are you using? You may have to solder a y-harness (where you have to have a wire come off the ESC + that goes to the motor, and THAT wire is what you connect to the Dean's). I believe you can buy y-harness already assembled and just solder that to ESC and Dean's.
08-18-2009, 08:53 AM
#25
soldering deans connectors takes some practice. I am no expert by any means, but I have learned a few things that might help. The first thing I learned is, find something to hold the stupid thing still! Here is the best solution I have found and it is very very cheap. Go to harbor freight if you have a store in your area or order online ITEM 319-5VGA which is called "helping hands" What this is is a heavy cast iron base, with little arms and clips on either end. It is adjustable all sorts of directions and can be tightened when you get it where you want it.
Another thing is to make sure that you have the matching plug plugged into the one you are soldering while you are doing it. In otherwords if you are soldering a male deans, go on and plug the female side on also, this keeps the plugs from shifting due to heat etc. Once you get good enough and can do it super fast you may not need this, but it is cheap insurance on not wasting a connector.
Flux is a must if you want a good joint. I have some trinity liquid rosin flux at the moment but it's a mess to deal with really. It would be much nicer to have some flux paste, or a flux pen even. Just make sure it is rosin and not corrosive like plumbers use.
60/40 lead solder will stick and work the best, so use that if you can find it.
Main thing is to make sure you have at least a 60 watt iron, let it get good and hot, and let it rest between joints to "recover" it's heat. Do one side at a time and shrink it, to make sure you don't blob the solder together and short out the battery etc. This would be less critical on a esc probably, but still a good practice to make sure the one joint is insulated and won't touch.
The deans shrinkwrap supplied is very small diameter, so if you are not making super good small joints you will have trouble getting it to slide over the wire and solder. Your first couple you could use a bit bigger shrink wrap it's pretty cheap.
Another thing is to make sure that you have the matching plug plugged into the one you are soldering while you are doing it. In otherwords if you are soldering a male deans, go on and plug the female side on also, this keeps the plugs from shifting due to heat etc. Once you get good enough and can do it super fast you may not need this, but it is cheap insurance on not wasting a connector.
Flux is a must if you want a good joint. I have some trinity liquid rosin flux at the moment but it's a mess to deal with really. It would be much nicer to have some flux paste, or a flux pen even. Just make sure it is rosin and not corrosive like plumbers use.
60/40 lead solder will stick and work the best, so use that if you can find it.
Main thing is to make sure you have at least a 60 watt iron, let it get good and hot, and let it rest between joints to "recover" it's heat. Do one side at a time and shrink it, to make sure you don't blob the solder together and short out the battery etc. This would be less critical on a esc probably, but still a good practice to make sure the one joint is insulated and won't touch.
The deans shrinkwrap supplied is very small diameter, so if you are not making super good small joints you will have trouble getting it to slide over the wire and solder. Your first couple you could use a bit bigger shrink wrap it's pretty cheap.
08-18-2009, 09:36 AM
#26
I assume we're talking Dean's 2-pin Ultra plugs? Just buy a pack with both male and female plugs in it, you'll end up using them later I promise. You can do it with a cheap 60W iron just fine. Be sure to tin the iron tip. Then tin the ESC wires. Scuff the Dean's connectors on the side you're going to solder to with a Dremel, rough sandpaper, etc. Then tin the Dean's. I hold mine with Visegrips. Also, what ESC are you using? You may have to solder a y-harness (where you have to have a wire come off the ESC + that goes to the motor, and THAT wire is what you connect to the Dean's). I believe you can buy y-harness already assembled and just solder that to ESC and Dean's.
08-18-2009, 11:30 AM
#27
hey guys can you solder wires directly together, i mean like wire to wire.
08-18-2009, 01:11 PM
#28
yes you can
08-18-2009, 01:16 PM
#30