New lipo competiter "Cheapest & Fastest"
08-03-2009, 07:44 PM
#32
With out any REAL proof of a higher failure rate due to Zippy's Castle would be opening themselves up for a lawsuit.
08-03-2009, 11:32 PM
#33
Tech Initiate
I have been running the RFI batteries for the past few months now and I have been very pleased with the performance that I’m getting from these packs.
My setup is a GV2 Pro buggy with a Tekin Redline Sensored 13.5 and an RS speed control. I have been using the Tekin Power Cells all the time before getting the RFI Lipo batteries. The charger I use is a Bantam e-station BC8 DX, I can hook it into my computer and view charge and discharge graphs as needed, the software is not very robust but it can give you some very valuable information on pack performance and functionality.
I have been using lipos in my cars since they first came out and before they started putting balancer plugs on the batteries, in fact the first set of lipo batteries I had, I was charging them on my turbo GFX on a NIMH setting. “Had a few surprises and experiences with that but I did get a good process down, got to see a few nice flames once in awhile J
Anyways, my experience with the current selection of hard-cased packs is limited because there are so many differently packaged packs available, but I have used most of the mainstream packs available today and I truly believe that the RFI pack is a very good choice for someone looking for a hard-case solution that provides excellent runtime and power for the price. Since I’m a racer, having a ROAR approved pack is very convenient, although I’m not a big fan of ROAR but I have to deal with it anyways.
I’m currently in the middle of getting some test results from these packs, running them on the track and getting charge and discharge graphs, which seem to be taking longer than usual since work has me busy. Here is what I have so far, pretty basic stuff but it should be somewhat helpful.
Using the setup above, I also have my cutoff voltage set to 6.90v since that’s when the batteries tend to fall off in performance per all my tests. I was able to get about 45 minutes on the pack (RFI 25c 4000mah) before the cutoff engaged. The most important characteristic I did notice is the RFI battery did not drop off in power and punch for the whole duration of the run. With other batteries that I have used I was seeing a performance drop when the battery would reach voltage around 7.3v to 7.1v. Usually my charger reads at full capacity of a lipo at 8.4v.
I just got this charger so what better way to figure it out, put some batteries on it and see what data you get. So my setup was 2 RFI packs and 2 Brand B packs of the same capacity/voltage and discharge rate. The main goal I was trying to accomplish out of these tests was to simulate why I was getting no drop off in performance in the RFI battery like I was getting with Brand B battery.
Here is what I found interesting during the discharge test, I set my discharge rate to 10amps and let it go, the RFI battery would discharge at a more linear rate while keeping the milliamps constant, meaning that as the voltage dropped the capacity would follow suit in a more linear fashion. I felt that the RFI battery cells were managing a more constant discharge rate which allowed keeping the battery running longer and stronger. (The graphs for the RFI battery were straighter while the graphs for Brand B battery had small high and low peaks)
For example, comparing the two different batteries discharge characteristics over the full discharge until reaching 6.9v and comparing on time intervals.
Packs Fully Charged-------------5 minutes at Discharge--------10minutes-------------30 minutes
RFI = 4000mah 8.4v-------------8.2v @ 3900mah---------------8.1v @ 3750mah-----7.5v @ 2700mah
Brand B = 4000mah 8.4v--------8.2v @ 3900mah---------------8.1v @ 3650mah-----7.5v @ 2100mah
So what this means is that the capacity of the Brand B battery is dropping off way early compared to the RFI battery over a period of time and the voltage between the Brand B cells is not staying well matched.
So the capacity may have something to do with the power output of the cell. Another issue that may make the power drop off also is when the cells discharge they are not keeping a balance between the cells which makes the pack less efficient. Although this is still a work in progress but this is the data I have so far.
How was the performance, I truly have to say the RFI pack is a great choice for stock racers since it seems to generate a lot of power on the low end, I have ran other batteries that state 25c/30c and above, but this battery really produces a lot of punch and top end power.
Just so you know, I’m a skeptic at heart when reading marketing material and numbers printed on a product. I’ve been lucky enough to play with a lot of product in my RC experience and when I become a believer is when I’ve actually used the product or seen the product used.
On an ending note, it is never my intention to diminish another company’s product based on non factual/scientific information, but if I have experienced it first hand then I will always let the public hear my opinion, good or bad. So the conclusion so far is that the RFI battery is a good choice for racer or basher, ya they may not be the cheapest out there, but as for performance and function they are one of the best I’ve used so far. Although this is my opinion, $60 for a pack is still a great and affordable price for my needs.
Joel
EmpireRC.net
FThobbies.com
My setup is a GV2 Pro buggy with a Tekin Redline Sensored 13.5 and an RS speed control. I have been using the Tekin Power Cells all the time before getting the RFI Lipo batteries. The charger I use is a Bantam e-station BC8 DX, I can hook it into my computer and view charge and discharge graphs as needed, the software is not very robust but it can give you some very valuable information on pack performance and functionality.
I have been using lipos in my cars since they first came out and before they started putting balancer plugs on the batteries, in fact the first set of lipo batteries I had, I was charging them on my turbo GFX on a NIMH setting. “Had a few surprises and experiences with that but I did get a good process down, got to see a few nice flames once in awhile J
Anyways, my experience with the current selection of hard-cased packs is limited because there are so many differently packaged packs available, but I have used most of the mainstream packs available today and I truly believe that the RFI pack is a very good choice for someone looking for a hard-case solution that provides excellent runtime and power for the price. Since I’m a racer, having a ROAR approved pack is very convenient, although I’m not a big fan of ROAR but I have to deal with it anyways.
I’m currently in the middle of getting some test results from these packs, running them on the track and getting charge and discharge graphs, which seem to be taking longer than usual since work has me busy. Here is what I have so far, pretty basic stuff but it should be somewhat helpful.
Using the setup above, I also have my cutoff voltage set to 6.90v since that’s when the batteries tend to fall off in performance per all my tests. I was able to get about 45 minutes on the pack (RFI 25c 4000mah) before the cutoff engaged. The most important characteristic I did notice is the RFI battery did not drop off in power and punch for the whole duration of the run. With other batteries that I have used I was seeing a performance drop when the battery would reach voltage around 7.3v to 7.1v. Usually my charger reads at full capacity of a lipo at 8.4v.
I just got this charger so what better way to figure it out, put some batteries on it and see what data you get. So my setup was 2 RFI packs and 2 Brand B packs of the same capacity/voltage and discharge rate. The main goal I was trying to accomplish out of these tests was to simulate why I was getting no drop off in performance in the RFI battery like I was getting with Brand B battery.
Here is what I found interesting during the discharge test, I set my discharge rate to 10amps and let it go, the RFI battery would discharge at a more linear rate while keeping the milliamps constant, meaning that as the voltage dropped the capacity would follow suit in a more linear fashion. I felt that the RFI battery cells were managing a more constant discharge rate which allowed keeping the battery running longer and stronger. (The graphs for the RFI battery were straighter while the graphs for Brand B battery had small high and low peaks)
For example, comparing the two different batteries discharge characteristics over the full discharge until reaching 6.9v and comparing on time intervals.
Packs Fully Charged-------------5 minutes at Discharge--------10minutes-------------30 minutes
RFI = 4000mah 8.4v-------------8.2v @ 3900mah---------------8.1v @ 3750mah-----7.5v @ 2700mah
Brand B = 4000mah 8.4v--------8.2v @ 3900mah---------------8.1v @ 3650mah-----7.5v @ 2100mah
So what this means is that the capacity of the Brand B battery is dropping off way early compared to the RFI battery over a period of time and the voltage between the Brand B cells is not staying well matched.
So the capacity may have something to do with the power output of the cell. Another issue that may make the power drop off also is when the cells discharge they are not keeping a balance between the cells which makes the pack less efficient. Although this is still a work in progress but this is the data I have so far.
How was the performance, I truly have to say the RFI pack is a great choice for stock racers since it seems to generate a lot of power on the low end, I have ran other batteries that state 25c/30c and above, but this battery really produces a lot of punch and top end power.
Just so you know, I’m a skeptic at heart when reading marketing material and numbers printed on a product. I’ve been lucky enough to play with a lot of product in my RC experience and when I become a believer is when I’ve actually used the product or seen the product used.
On an ending note, it is never my intention to diminish another company’s product based on non factual/scientific information, but if I have experienced it first hand then I will always let the public hear my opinion, good or bad. So the conclusion so far is that the RFI battery is a good choice for racer or basher, ya they may not be the cheapest out there, but as for performance and function they are one of the best I’ve used so far. Although this is my opinion, $60 for a pack is still a great and affordable price for my needs.
Joel
EmpireRC.net
FThobbies.com
Last edited by empirerc; 08-04-2009 at 06:58 PM.
08-05-2009, 06:17 AM
#34
I have been running the RFI batteries for the past few months now and I have been very pleased with the performance that I’m getting from these packs.
My setup is a GV2 Pro buggy with a Tekin Redline Sensored 13.5 and an RS speed control. I have been using the Tekin Power Cells all the time before getting the RFI Lipo batteries. The charger I use is a Bantam e-station BC8 DX, I can hook it into my computer and view charge and discharge graphs as needed, the software is not very robust but it can give you some very valuable information on pack performance and functionality.
I have been using lipos in my cars since they first came out and before they started putting balancer plugs on the batteries, in fact the first set of lipo batteries I had, I was charging them on my turbo GFX on a NIMH setting. “Had a few surprises and experiences with that but I did get a good process down, got to see a few nice flames once in awhile J
Anyways, my experience with the current selection of hard-cased packs is limited because there are so many differently packaged packs available, but I have used most of the mainstream packs available today and I truly believe that the RFI pack is a very good choice for someone looking for a hard-case solution that provides excellent runtime and power for the price. Since I’m a racer, having a ROAR approved pack is very convenient, although I’m not a big fan of ROAR but I have to deal with it anyways.
I’m currently in the middle of getting some test results from these packs, running them on the track and getting charge and discharge graphs, which seem to be taking longer than usual since work has me busy. Here is what I have so far, pretty basic stuff but it should be somewhat helpful.
Using the setup above, I also have my cutoff voltage set to 6.90v since that’s when the batteries tend to fall off in performance per all my tests. I was able to get about 45 minutes on the pack (RFI 25c 4000mah) before the cutoff engaged. The most important characteristic I did notice is the RFI battery did not drop off in power and punch for the whole duration of the run. With other batteries that I have used I was seeing a performance drop when the battery would reach voltage around 7.3v to 7.1v. Usually my charger reads at full capacity of a lipo at 8.4v.
I just got this charger so what better way to figure it out, put some batteries on it and see what data you get. So my setup was 2 RFI packs and 2 Brand B packs of the same capacity/voltage and discharge rate. The main goal I was trying to accomplish out of these tests was to simulate why I was getting no drop off in performance in the RFI battery like I was getting with Brand B battery.
Here is what I found interesting during the discharge test, I set my discharge rate to 10amps and let it go, the RFI battery would discharge at a more linear rate while keeping the milliamps constant, meaning that as the voltage dropped the capacity would follow suit in a more linear fashion. I felt that the RFI battery cells were managing a more constant discharge rate which allowed keeping the battery running longer and stronger. (The graphs for the RFI battery were straighter while the graphs for Brand B battery had small high and low peaks)
For example, comparing the two different batteries discharge characteristics over the full discharge until reaching 6.9v and comparing on time intervals.
Packs Fully Charged-------------5 minutes at Discharge--------10minutes-------------30 minutes
RFI = 4000mah 8.4v-------------8.2v @ 3900mah---------------8.1v @ 3750mah-----7.5v @ 2700mah
Brand B = 4000mah 8.4v--------8.2v @ 3900mah---------------8.1v @ 3650mah-----7.5v @ 2100mah
So what this means is that the capacity of the Brand B battery is dropping off way early compared to the RFI battery over a period of time and the voltage between the Brand B cells is not staying well matched.
So the capacity may have something to do with the power output of the cell. Another issue that may make the power drop off also is when the cells discharge they are not keeping a balance between the cells which makes the pack less efficient. Although this is still a work in progress but this is the data I have so far.
How was the performance, I truly have to say the RFI pack is a great choice for stock racers since it seems to generate a lot of power on the low end, I have ran other batteries that state 25c/30c and above, but this battery really produces a lot of punch and top end power.
Just so you know, I’m a skeptic at heart when reading marketing material and numbers printed on a product. I’ve been lucky enough to play with a lot of product in my RC experience and when I become a believer is when I’ve actually used the product or seen the product used.
On an ending note, it is never my intention to diminish another company’s product based on non factual/scientific information, but if I have experienced it first hand then I will always let the public hear my opinion, good or bad. So the conclusion so far is that the RFI battery is a good choice for racer or basher, ya they may not be the cheapest out there, but as for performance and function they are one of the best I’ve used so far. Although this is my opinion, $60 for a pack is still a great and affordable price for my needs.
Joel
EmpireRC.net
FThobbies.com
My setup is a GV2 Pro buggy with a Tekin Redline Sensored 13.5 and an RS speed control. I have been using the Tekin Power Cells all the time before getting the RFI Lipo batteries. The charger I use is a Bantam e-station BC8 DX, I can hook it into my computer and view charge and discharge graphs as needed, the software is not very robust but it can give you some very valuable information on pack performance and functionality.
I have been using lipos in my cars since they first came out and before they started putting balancer plugs on the batteries, in fact the first set of lipo batteries I had, I was charging them on my turbo GFX on a NIMH setting. “Had a few surprises and experiences with that but I did get a good process down, got to see a few nice flames once in awhile J
Anyways, my experience with the current selection of hard-cased packs is limited because there are so many differently packaged packs available, but I have used most of the mainstream packs available today and I truly believe that the RFI pack is a very good choice for someone looking for a hard-case solution that provides excellent runtime and power for the price. Since I’m a racer, having a ROAR approved pack is very convenient, although I’m not a big fan of ROAR but I have to deal with it anyways.
I’m currently in the middle of getting some test results from these packs, running them on the track and getting charge and discharge graphs, which seem to be taking longer than usual since work has me busy. Here is what I have so far, pretty basic stuff but it should be somewhat helpful.
Using the setup above, I also have my cutoff voltage set to 6.90v since that’s when the batteries tend to fall off in performance per all my tests. I was able to get about 45 minutes on the pack (RFI 25c 4000mah) before the cutoff engaged. The most important characteristic I did notice is the RFI battery did not drop off in power and punch for the whole duration of the run. With other batteries that I have used I was seeing a performance drop when the battery would reach voltage around 7.3v to 7.1v. Usually my charger reads at full capacity of a lipo at 8.4v.
I just got this charger so what better way to figure it out, put some batteries on it and see what data you get. So my setup was 2 RFI packs and 2 Brand B packs of the same capacity/voltage and discharge rate. The main goal I was trying to accomplish out of these tests was to simulate why I was getting no drop off in performance in the RFI battery like I was getting with Brand B battery.
Here is what I found interesting during the discharge test, I set my discharge rate to 10amps and let it go, the RFI battery would discharge at a more linear rate while keeping the milliamps constant, meaning that as the voltage dropped the capacity would follow suit in a more linear fashion. I felt that the RFI battery cells were managing a more constant discharge rate which allowed keeping the battery running longer and stronger. (The graphs for the RFI battery were straighter while the graphs for Brand B battery had small high and low peaks)
For example, comparing the two different batteries discharge characteristics over the full discharge until reaching 6.9v and comparing on time intervals.
Packs Fully Charged-------------5 minutes at Discharge--------10minutes-------------30 minutes
RFI = 4000mah 8.4v-------------8.2v @ 3900mah---------------8.1v @ 3750mah-----7.5v @ 2700mah
Brand B = 4000mah 8.4v--------8.2v @ 3900mah---------------8.1v @ 3650mah-----7.5v @ 2100mah
So what this means is that the capacity of the Brand B battery is dropping off way early compared to the RFI battery over a period of time and the voltage between the Brand B cells is not staying well matched.
So the capacity may have something to do with the power output of the cell. Another issue that may make the power drop off also is when the cells discharge they are not keeping a balance between the cells which makes the pack less efficient. Although this is still a work in progress but this is the data I have so far.
How was the performance, I truly have to say the RFI pack is a great choice for stock racers since it seems to generate a lot of power on the low end, I have ran other batteries that state 25c/30c and above, but this battery really produces a lot of punch and top end power.
Just so you know, I’m a skeptic at heart when reading marketing material and numbers printed on a product. I’ve been lucky enough to play with a lot of product in my RC experience and when I become a believer is when I’ve actually used the product or seen the product used.
On an ending note, it is never my intention to diminish another company’s product based on non factual/scientific information, but if I have experienced it first hand then I will always let the public hear my opinion, good or bad. So the conclusion so far is that the RFI battery is a good choice for racer or basher, ya they may not be the cheapest out there, but as for performance and function they are one of the best I’ve used so far. Although this is my opinion, $60 for a pack is still a great and affordable price for my needs.
Joel
EmpireRC.net
FThobbies.com
08-05-2009, 03:34 PM
#35
[QUOTE=empirerc;6158319][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]I have been running the RFI batteries for the past few months now and I have been very pleased with the performance that I’m getting from these packs.
My setup is a GV2 Pro buggy with a Tekin Redline Sensored 13.5 and an RS speed control. I have been using the Tekin Power Cells all the time before getting the RFI Lipo batteries. The charger I use is a Bantam e-station BC8 DX, I can hook it into my computer and view charge and discharge graphs as needed, the software is not very robust but it can give you some very valuable information on pack performance and functionality.
I have been using lipos in my cars since they first came out and before they started putting balancer plugs on the batteries, in fact the first set of lipo batteries I had, I was charging them on my turbo GFX on a NIMH setting. “Had a few surprises and experiences with that but I did get a good process down, got to see a few nice flames once in awhile J
Anyways, my experience with the current selection of hard-cased packs is limited because there are so many differently packaged packs available, but I have used most of the mainstream packs available today and I truly believe that the RFI pack is a very good choice for someone looking for a hard-case solution that provides excellent runtime and power for the price. Since I’m a racer, having a ROAR approved pack is very convenient, although I’m not a big fan of ROAR but I have to deal with it anyways.
I’m currently in the middle of getting some test results from these packs, running them on the track and getting charge and discharge graphs, which seem to be taking longer than usual since work has me busy. Here is what I have so far, pretty basic stuff but it should be somewhat helpful.
Using the setup above, I also have my cutoff voltage set to 6.90v since that’s when the batteries tend to fall off in performance per all my tests. I was able to get about 45 minutes on the pack (RFI 25c 4000mah) before the cutoff engaged. The most important characteristic I did notice is the RFI battery did not drop off in power and punch for the whole duration of the run. With other batteries that I have used I was seeing a performance drop when the battery would reach voltage around 7.3v to 7.1v. Usually my charger reads at full capacity of a lipo at 8.4v.
I just got this charger so what better way to figure it out, put some batteries on it and see what data you get. So my setup was 2 RFI packs and 2 Brand B packs of the same capacity/voltage and discharge rate. The main goal I was trying to accomplish out of these tests was to simulate why I was getting no drop off in performance in the RFI battery like I was getting with Brand B battery.
Here is what I found interesting during the discharge test, I set my discharge rate to 10amps and let it go, the RFI battery would discharge at a more linear rate while keeping the milliamps constant, meaning that as the voltage dropped the capacity would follow suit in a more linear fashion. I felt that the RFI battery cells were managing a more constant discharge rate which allowed keeping the battery running longer and stronger. (The graphs for the RFI battery were straighter while the graphs for Brand B battery had small high and low peaks)
For example, comparing the two different batteries discharge characteristics over the full discharge until reaching 6.9v and comparing on time intervals.
Packs Fully Charged-------------5 minutes at Discharge--------10minutes-------------30 minutes
RFI = 4000mah 8.4v-------------8.2v @ 3900mah---------------8.1v @ 3750mah-----7.5v @ 2700mah
Brand B = 4000mah 8.4v--------8.2v @ 3900mah---------------8.1v @ 3650mah-----7.5v @ 2100mah
So what this means is that the capacity of the Brand B battery is dropping off way early compared to the RFI battery over a period of time and the voltage between the Brand B cells is not staying well matched.
So the capacity may have something to do with the power output of the cell. Another issue that may make the power drop off also is when the cells discharge they are not keeping a balance between the cells which makes the pack less efficient. Although this is still a work in progress but this is the data I have so far.
How was the performance, I truly have to say the RFI pack is a great choice for stock racers since it seems to generate a lot of power on the low end, I have ran other batteries that state 25c/30c and above, but this battery really produces a lot of punch and top end power.
Just so you know, I’m a skeptic at heart when reading marketing material and numbers printed on a product. I’ve been lucky enough to play with a lot of product in my RC experience and when I become a believer is when I’ve actually used the product or seen the product used.
On an ending note, it is never my intention to diminish another company’s product based on non factual/scientific information, but if I have experienced it first hand then I will always let the public hear my opinion, good or bad. So the conclusion so far is that the RFI battery is a good choice for racer or basher, ya they may not be the cheapest out there, but as for performance and function they are one of the best I’ve used so far. Although this is my opinion, $60 for a pack is still a great and affordable price for my needs.
I hope you continue your testing on more RFI batteries against Brand B batteries in order to get a true sample. It would be great if you did similar tests against "Premium Brands" ( MaxAmps, SMC, etc...) Maybe you can ask your track buddies to borrow their batteries for testing in order to accomplish this?
Also what type of load was placed on the motor as you tested the batteries?
What type/brand of motor did you use? Did you test the temperatures of the motors and batteries as you ran them? I was wondering if the RFI ran cooler.
Thanks for your efforts
My setup is a GV2 Pro buggy with a Tekin Redline Sensored 13.5 and an RS speed control. I have been using the Tekin Power Cells all the time before getting the RFI Lipo batteries. The charger I use is a Bantam e-station BC8 DX, I can hook it into my computer and view charge and discharge graphs as needed, the software is not very robust but it can give you some very valuable information on pack performance and functionality.
I have been using lipos in my cars since they first came out and before they started putting balancer plugs on the batteries, in fact the first set of lipo batteries I had, I was charging them on my turbo GFX on a NIMH setting. “Had a few surprises and experiences with that but I did get a good process down, got to see a few nice flames once in awhile J
Anyways, my experience with the current selection of hard-cased packs is limited because there are so many differently packaged packs available, but I have used most of the mainstream packs available today and I truly believe that the RFI pack is a very good choice for someone looking for a hard-case solution that provides excellent runtime and power for the price. Since I’m a racer, having a ROAR approved pack is very convenient, although I’m not a big fan of ROAR but I have to deal with it anyways.
I’m currently in the middle of getting some test results from these packs, running them on the track and getting charge and discharge graphs, which seem to be taking longer than usual since work has me busy. Here is what I have so far, pretty basic stuff but it should be somewhat helpful.
Using the setup above, I also have my cutoff voltage set to 6.90v since that’s when the batteries tend to fall off in performance per all my tests. I was able to get about 45 minutes on the pack (RFI 25c 4000mah) before the cutoff engaged. The most important characteristic I did notice is the RFI battery did not drop off in power and punch for the whole duration of the run. With other batteries that I have used I was seeing a performance drop when the battery would reach voltage around 7.3v to 7.1v. Usually my charger reads at full capacity of a lipo at 8.4v.
I just got this charger so what better way to figure it out, put some batteries on it and see what data you get. So my setup was 2 RFI packs and 2 Brand B packs of the same capacity/voltage and discharge rate. The main goal I was trying to accomplish out of these tests was to simulate why I was getting no drop off in performance in the RFI battery like I was getting with Brand B battery.
Here is what I found interesting during the discharge test, I set my discharge rate to 10amps and let it go, the RFI battery would discharge at a more linear rate while keeping the milliamps constant, meaning that as the voltage dropped the capacity would follow suit in a more linear fashion. I felt that the RFI battery cells were managing a more constant discharge rate which allowed keeping the battery running longer and stronger. (The graphs for the RFI battery were straighter while the graphs for Brand B battery had small high and low peaks)
For example, comparing the two different batteries discharge characteristics over the full discharge until reaching 6.9v and comparing on time intervals.
Packs Fully Charged-------------5 minutes at Discharge--------10minutes-------------30 minutes
RFI = 4000mah 8.4v-------------8.2v @ 3900mah---------------8.1v @ 3750mah-----7.5v @ 2700mah
Brand B = 4000mah 8.4v--------8.2v @ 3900mah---------------8.1v @ 3650mah-----7.5v @ 2100mah
So what this means is that the capacity of the Brand B battery is dropping off way early compared to the RFI battery over a period of time and the voltage between the Brand B cells is not staying well matched.
So the capacity may have something to do with the power output of the cell. Another issue that may make the power drop off also is when the cells discharge they are not keeping a balance between the cells which makes the pack less efficient. Although this is still a work in progress but this is the data I have so far.
How was the performance, I truly have to say the RFI pack is a great choice for stock racers since it seems to generate a lot of power on the low end, I have ran other batteries that state 25c/30c and above, but this battery really produces a lot of punch and top end power.
Just so you know, I’m a skeptic at heart when reading marketing material and numbers printed on a product. I’ve been lucky enough to play with a lot of product in my RC experience and when I become a believer is when I’ve actually used the product or seen the product used.
On an ending note, it is never my intention to diminish another company’s product based on non factual/scientific information, but if I have experienced it first hand then I will always let the public hear my opinion, good or bad. So the conclusion so far is that the RFI battery is a good choice for racer or basher, ya they may not be the cheapest out there, but as for performance and function they are one of the best I’ve used so far. Although this is my opinion, $60 for a pack is still a great and affordable price for my needs.
I hope you continue your testing on more RFI batteries against Brand B batteries in order to get a true sample. It would be great if you did similar tests against "Premium Brands" ( MaxAmps, SMC, etc...) Maybe you can ask your track buddies to borrow their batteries for testing in order to accomplish this?
Also what type of load was placed on the motor as you tested the batteries?
What type/brand of motor did you use? Did you test the temperatures of the motors and batteries as you ran them? I was wondering if the RFI ran cooler.
Thanks for your efforts
08-06-2009, 12:32 AM
#36
Tech Initiate
About 30 minutes or so, I have had the data stored for some time and a partial review already written up for the data in rough draft. But I have spent about 10 hours or so trying to get data. Most of the time has been letting the charger do it's thing.
08-06-2009, 01:01 AM
#37
Tech Initiate
I'll see if I can acquire some more batteries that are well known brands. The motor I was using to get this preliminary data was a Tekin Sensored 13.5 motor in my 2wd buggy.
The remaining tests are going to be in my 1/8 scale buggy using a Tekin RX8 system with a 1900kv motor. I have been using an Eagle Tree Data Recorder which should bring back some more serious data, but I probably won't have that finished until a week or so.
As for temps during my first tests in my 2wd buggy, the motor was about 110f, unfortunately I forgot to log the temps of the battery. The motor stayed around the same temps for both the RFI battery and the Brand B.
I should have some more intricate data in a couple weeks, have to get ready for JBRL so that is going to take most of my testing time. I'll report back when I finish my testing.
The remaining tests are going to be in my 1/8 scale buggy using a Tekin RX8 system with a 1900kv motor. I have been using an Eagle Tree Data Recorder which should bring back some more serious data, but I probably won't have that finished until a week or so.
As for temps during my first tests in my 2wd buggy, the motor was about 110f, unfortunately I forgot to log the temps of the battery. The motor stayed around the same temps for both the RFI battery and the Brand B.
I should have some more intricate data in a couple weeks, have to get ready for JBRL so that is going to take most of my testing time. I'll report back when I finish my testing.
08-06-2009, 02:06 AM
#38
hello, i have a question......im new to rc tech so bare with me please.
im currently deployed to iraq and have been looking for some cheap batteries that will last me the deployment durring my down time here, i saw those zippy's for around 25$ someone posted earlyer??? this is what i would need help with...
i have a Stock E-revo 1/10 scale..ive had it for a month now.
also i have traxxas connectors on my truck how would i go about converting the leads ?? or would I?? can some one please help explain this part to me??
Like i said im deployed to iraq so me seeing these cheaper batteries sound good to use while im here.
thanks SSG Stevens
im currently deployed to iraq and have been looking for some cheap batteries that will last me the deployment durring my down time here, i saw those zippy's for around 25$ someone posted earlyer??? this is what i would need help with...
i have a Stock E-revo 1/10 scale..ive had it for a month now.
also i have traxxas connectors on my truck how would i go about converting the leads ?? or would I?? can some one please help explain this part to me??
Like i said im deployed to iraq so me seeing these cheaper batteries sound good to use while im here.
thanks SSG Stevens
08-06-2009, 03:02 PM
#39
Bump...........anyone will to help explain and give advise on chager an how this set will go for my Stock 1/10 Erevo. please thanks
08-07-2009, 07:50 AM
#40
Tech Adept
hello, i have a question......im new to rc tech so bare with me please.
im currently deployed to iraq and have been looking for some cheap batteries that will last me the deployment durring my down time here, i saw those zippy's for around 25$ someone posted earlyer??? this is what i would need help with...
i have a Stock E-revo 1/10 scale..ive had it for a month now.
also i have traxxas connectors on my truck how would i go about converting the leads ?? or would I?? can some one please help explain this part to me??
Like i said im deployed to iraq so me seeing these cheaper batteries sound good to use while im here.
thanks SSG Stevens
im currently deployed to iraq and have been looking for some cheap batteries that will last me the deployment durring my down time here, i saw those zippy's for around 25$ someone posted earlyer??? this is what i would need help with...
i have a Stock E-revo 1/10 scale..ive had it for a month now.
also i have traxxas connectors on my truck how would i go about converting the leads ?? or would I?? can some one please help explain this part to me??
Like i said im deployed to iraq so me seeing these cheaper batteries sound good to use while im here.
thanks SSG Stevens
The Traxxas connectors are very good, so I wouldn't neccesarily change them. The issue would be, finding batteries that are inexpensive enough that already have the Traxxas connector on them. Or, being able to change the connector on a battery your self. Can you solder? Or do you have a soldering iron availbale to you? If not, then you would have to find batteries that already have the Traxxas connector on them. You're planning on running LiPos? NiMH's would be cheaper, easier to charge, and probably less hassle.
08-08-2009, 05:51 AM
#41
thanks for the help and answers, i can sodder and good thing i came prepared and do have access to a sodder gun. the other question would be sence i have stock motors and esc the water proof version, would i have to get some type of regulator for the lipos to run on the esc?? any ideas?? if i do have to have a regulator can anyone tell me a good cheap regulator to get with these??
thanks again for listening
SSG Stevens
thanks again for listening
SSG Stevens
08-08-2009, 05:50 PM
#42
thanks for the help and answers, i can sodder and good thing i came prepared and do have access to a sodder gun. the other question would be sence i have stock motors and esc the water proof version, would i have to get some type of regulator for the lipos to run on the esc?? any ideas?? if i do have to have a regulator can anyone tell me a good cheap regulator to get with these??
thanks again for listening
SSG Stevens
thanks again for listening
SSG Stevens
08-08-2009, 05:58 PM
#43
You need a Lipo cutoff for that ESC. I know Novak makes a good one called the Smart-Stop, but I heard there was some compatibility issues with Traxxas ESCs. You will have to do a bit of research online to find out what will work for you. Or maybe someone here already knows which cutoff will work with that Traxxas EVX-2 ESC.
08-08-2009, 06:13 PM
#44
A quick look at the Novak website shows that the Smart-Stop Cutoff Module is compatible with all ESCs except the XL-5 from Traxxas.
08-09-2009, 12:28 PM
#45
hello, i have a question......im new to rc tech so bare with me please.
im currently deployed to iraq and have been looking for some cheap batteries that will last me the deployment durring my down time here, i saw those zippy's for around 25$ someone posted earlyer??? this is what i would need help with...
i have a Stock E-revo 1/10 scale..ive had it for a month now.
also i have traxxas connectors on my truck how would i go about converting the leads ?? or would I?? can some one please help explain this part to me??
Like i said im deployed to iraq so me seeing these cheaper batteries sound good to use while im here.
thanks SSG Stevens
im currently deployed to iraq and have been looking for some cheap batteries that will last me the deployment durring my down time here, i saw those zippy's for around 25$ someone posted earlyer??? this is what i would need help with...
i have a Stock E-revo 1/10 scale..ive had it for a month now.
also i have traxxas connectors on my truck how would i go about converting the leads ?? or would I?? can some one please help explain this part to me??
Like i said im deployed to iraq so me seeing these cheaper batteries sound good to use while im here.
thanks SSG Stevens
Also, as far as the cut off, we don't use one and you will notice the drop in performance and know when to stop. Been using this method since spring without killing a battery yet.
As for peoples comments about the Zippy's. I've been using the 4 for months now. Granted I'm not racing, but my son is 7 so I think bashing with him is harder on the batteries than racing. We'll go to a construction site and they'll last for 30 minutes or more. There's been no drop in run time or speed.
I'm very please with the price performance ratio.
As far as the DOA packs, it's been mentioned the soldering of the tubes could come lose, for the price, I'd have no problem popping the case open and re-soldering the tubes.
Shipping was fast without paying for express shipping. To each their own, but when I need new batteries I'll buy Zippy again.