R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

So I had this 4S pack that would get very hot running in my 8th scale. I decided to break it into two 2S packs for my Slash and SC10(much lower amp draw). I got one all rigged up, worked out well. So now I'm trying to get the second 2S pack ready. I have a very small metal tab coming from the second cell. I've tried about 4 times to get the lead to stick, and it just barely stuck. Any force at all, and it pops off. Is there some secret to soldering to those very thin metal tabs that come from each cell? I'm trying to be very careful not to heat up the cell itself...

CClay1282

iTrader: (4)

I would hand sand it very lightly to rough it up and then use quality wire and solder and you should be ok.

Dave H

Suggest you try some flux. Electrical (not plumbing) flux paste on the tab before soldering. And pre tinning the tab of course, maybe even with some flux. Agree on roughing it up as suggested. Both the roughing and flux are trying to dig through any surface issues such as oxidation.

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

I did both, roughed it up and fluxed. Then, when I try to tin it, the solder beads up and rolls off. Am I not getting the tab hot enough? This is the first time I had to go this deep into my lipos... I'm scared and need moral support!

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

Man, I tried everything, and the solder just won't stick to the thin metal tab. Does anyone else have experience with this?

bshack

iTrader: (2)

Probably the wrong alloy to solder to. I've seen tabs that have been spot welded onto. Really hard to solder to unless you have a 1000+ degree Iron and silver solder. Do you have enough room to put forceps on to transfer heat? Litton has a flux that works with tough situations like this but hard to find.

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

Nah, just needle nose pliers, and I got those pretty darn hot too. The only thing that doesn't seem to get very hot, is the cell itself. I thought about the liquid solder that's like glue, since the Dean's solder I'm using won't work...

whitrzac

iTrader: (97)

you need zink solder... be sure to have a spare tip on hand and to do it outside...

http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/?sid=1630096&pgid=bldg

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you have some experience with this... any more warnings/suggestions? Somehow, I got solder to stick to the other pack I made. I guess it stuck to some of the other GLOB of solder that was on the other side...

boomerrw

They make this stuff in a tube called solder paste or something very similar. I have seen it used successfully a few times. As a matter of fact the packaging shows it being used on the tab of a lipo battery!

whitrzac

iTrader: (97)

if there was allready solder on it it would have stuck just fine, but trying to solder on a alloy tab with none on in is a PIA without the right stuff...


not all lipos have alloy tabs, some have copper.


remember, the soldering iron conducts elc. it may sound stupid, but I'v done it before...

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

That's what I thought, as I watched the solder just bead up and roll right off the tab! I was getting really frustrated, and even let my little bro try(he's done copper pipes and such). I'll see if I can either find the Zinc stuff, which may be a bigger pain than it's worth, or I can try the stuff in the tube. What was the brand of stuff you found with a lipo on the label?

pyro18t

iTrader: (1)

Brad is that you? LOL

Jay

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

Tis ME! I cut that Ugly Losi pack apart and got one setup. I even tested it yesterday, seems to work pretty well but now I'm thinking my motor is about done. That Titan just has no b-lls anymore.

I'd love to get this other pack rigged up, but the dang thing has some crazy alloy tab on it!

pyro18t

iTrader: (1)

HA! I knew it! I read that other post about you throwing pinions and I was like THAT GOT TO BE HIM!

I don't know what we can do about that Lipo though? Did you see Hobbycity now has 4 new hardcase lipos?

Jay