Team Associated 1/8 Electric Buggy Info and Tips
#1
Team Associated 1/8 Electric Buggy Info and Tips
Hello Guys,
Looks like there are several small threads started about the RC8E conversion kit and other RC8 questions, but no main thread. I thought this could be the thread to talk about it all.
I have the conversion kit on order and I plan on making some upgrades when the new RC8 parts are released.
Let talk about the ESC systems that are being used as well as tires etc.
I can only see the eletric 1/8 getting bigger.
Post any set ups or tips you have.
Thanks for your comments
Kevin Boyle
Looks like there are several small threads started about the RC8E conversion kit and other RC8 questions, but no main thread. I thought this could be the thread to talk about it all.
I have the conversion kit on order and I plan on making some upgrades when the new RC8 parts are released.
Let talk about the ESC systems that are being used as well as tires etc.
I can only see the eletric 1/8 getting bigger.
Post any set ups or tips you have.
Thanks for your comments
Kevin Boyle
Last edited by Kevin Boyle; 04-07-2009 at 09:20 AM.
#3
rc8
Hmm, where to start.
Ups =
Aluminum front chassis brace
Kings or EQ A B C D plates GHEA has some real nice stuff
Steering mod
RC8T shock tower mod ( really squares up out of turns)
Plastic Kyosho spur
Setup:
MMM CC 2200 + Zippy 4S 20C 5000 geared 44/18 = 18-22 min run times
Be sure to ZIP TY the MMM or IT WILL FAIL!!!
Worlds setup does not work for me at all, I need way more steering so here goes.
Front= Blk spring/1.3x6/30wt/Blk sway bar/14*/2up topfr/2upbotfr/camber hole inner/2mm bump w steering mod. Shocks up/out
Rear= Bronze spring/1.3x6/25wt/silver sway bar/2* toe/3*squat/ camber hole lowest/ shocks up/out w RC8T tower /29mm shafts
Diffs are 3000/10000/2000
Any tips on getting more turn in (off power) would be appreciated.
Ups =
Aluminum front chassis brace
Kings or EQ A B C D plates GHEA has some real nice stuff
Steering mod
RC8T shock tower mod ( really squares up out of turns)
Plastic Kyosho spur
Setup:
MMM CC 2200 + Zippy 4S 20C 5000 geared 44/18 = 18-22 min run times
Be sure to ZIP TY the MMM or IT WILL FAIL!!!
Worlds setup does not work for me at all, I need way more steering so here goes.
Front= Blk spring/1.3x6/30wt/Blk sway bar/14*/2up topfr/2upbotfr/camber hole inner/2mm bump w steering mod. Shocks up/out
Rear= Bronze spring/1.3x6/25wt/silver sway bar/2* toe/3*squat/ camber hole lowest/ shocks up/out w RC8T tower /29mm shafts
Diffs are 3000/10000/2000
Any tips on getting more turn in (off power) would be appreciated.
#5
Let keep it rolling with the input, even Andrews info LOL.
I know AE is coming out with plastic spur gears as well.
I will be back soon to talk about the car
Later
Kevin Boyle
I know AE is coming out with plastic spur gears as well.
I will be back soon to talk about the car
Later
Kevin Boyle
#7
COME ON MEN, POST SOME PICTURES.
#10
Guest
Hi, here you can find the first pictures of my RC8, with all accessories and modifs :
http://sylveris.free.fr/serie2.html
Be carefull with the motor choice, due to the 3mm and 4 mm motor mount screws !!!
Will post some comments and videos on my website later, but it's under construction...
http://sylveris.free.fr/serie2.html
Be carefull with the motor choice, due to the 3mm and 4 mm motor mount screws !!!
Will post some comments and videos on my website later, but it's under construction...
#11
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
I run an RC8FT with RC Product Designs conversion. What I have found is that if you use the Neu 1512 2.5D/F motor, you don't really need to stray much if it all from the nitro diff setups. I currently run 5-5-3 and it works quite well. I also use the plastic chassis braces with no issues, and the aluminum top plate now.
#13
Hey Guys,
Since I am new to the Electric 1/8th scale I do have a few questions.
1) How is the weight distribution?
2) What are the average run times of the cars?
3) How does the car handle with breaking (not parts)
That is it for now
Thanks
Kevin Boyle
Since I am new to the Electric 1/8th scale I do have a few questions.
1) How is the weight distribution?
2) What are the average run times of the cars?
3) How does the car handle with breaking (not parts)
That is it for now
Thanks
Kevin Boyle
#14
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
As for runtimes, this is VERY track dependent. I went with a 6000mah pack as I wanted consistent 15 minute runtimes regardless of track conditions. I have dumped this pack in about 18 minutes on a large flowing track against nitros. Running on a more technical or shorter track should really increase your runtimes. I would say that a 5000mah 4S pack will consistently give you a minimum of 12 minutes of runtime even on a high drain track. You may get much better runtime than this though in your experience. If you have a radio that can do it, having telemetry to warn you of when your pack is getting close to dumping (assuming you are doing swaps with nitros or just would like to know) is a good tool.
As for braking, depends on what camp you fall into. If you need braking bias, only option right now is a tekno conversion. Very good stuff in the tekno conversion, I just wish the battery tray was a bit longer. As my conversion uses the ESC for brakes, I don't really use the brakes that much, if at all. I usually coast around turns and then power through. Against similar competition with nitros using mechanical brakes or a similar skilled electric driver using his tekno rc8, I didn't feel I was at a disadvantaged based on where they were using their mechanical brakes. If the pro's start seeing an advantage to this turning into wins, I would say it will be something the next generation of electrics will incorporate (looks like Hot bodies D8E has it in it already). Me personally I would like to see what could be done to simulate the braking bias effect without using a servo to do it. Maybe a center driveshaft oneway clicker like losi's XX4 setup? You could then dial in as much braking force to the front brakes till the car was 50 - 50 braking. Seems most bias is with the rear brakes having more braking force than the fronts (40F - 60R).
I do know I would like to see Tekno's RC8 conversion (mechanical brakes, long shank pinion) combined with the RC Monster center diff slipper and using the Tekin RX8 ESC with its coast feature. I think it would be a killer setup.