Wrapped up the final steps and have the truck in roller mode. I had a set of FT Threaded Shocks already prepared for the truck. I changed the front springs to the Gold, and haven't built the Kit Blue Shock Sets. I am sure they will work just fine. I just prefer the FT Threaded shock bodys.
One piece of advice as you install the electronics. If your servo has short leads or even if it doesn't, dont assume it can reach your normal receiver mounting location. The extra length of the chassis could make the lead a little short. Pre fit the receiver with the Servo Lead plugged in before you make the final attachment.
Also if your using the KO 2413 Servo. It does fit (width) but it is a little tight. Ive been using this servo in my T4 for some time like this.
I did test fit a Traxxas Body on the SC10 Chassis just to confirm homologation. By relocating the mounting locations on the Traxxas body, the body does fit the SC10. Although the work AE did on theirs makes a great looking truck.
For Slash owners, The AE body will even look good on your truck. You will just need to trim some material away to clear the Front and Rear Bumpers on the Traxxas Chassis.
#9836 SC10 Clear Body
#9838 SC10 KMC Body Prepainted & Detailed
#9839 SC10 Lucas Oil Body Prepainted & Detailed
#9840 SC10 Bully Dog Body Prepainted & Detailed
#9841 SC10 ProComp Body Prepainted & Detailed
#9842 SC10 AE Body Prepainted & Detailed
#9843 SC10 KMC Decal Sheet
#9844 SC10 Lucas Oil Decal Sheet
#9845 SC10 Bully Dog Decal Sheet
#9846 SC10 Pro Comp Decal Sheet
#9847 SC10 AE Decal Sheet
This was a Fun Truck to build. Every part was packaged, labeled, and undamaged. Something you dont always have when you get a first run of production.
If you have a spare set of FT Threaded Shocks, go ahead an build them up while you wait on your truck to arrive. You will be a litttle ahead once you get your truck.
One last thought: Since few of anyone gets to build their own kits nowadays another thing I though I would add ~ work slowly and pre-thread everything using some old spare screws/bolts so as to not strip any heads on your new hardware.
so are you guys gonna use diff fluid in the diff or just grease ? It is sealed rite?
I will be using Grease for now.
The output shafts are double sealed with O-Rings.
One small one (external) which is held in place by a groove and seals between the bearing inner race/shaft, and one standard size (internal) between bearing and washer/roll pin which holds the output shaft in place.
There is a paper type gasket when you close up the gear assembly. I put a thin coat of Mobil 1 Grease on each side to help seal once the assembly is screwed together.
JD your killing me! Mine hasn't come in yet! Did you get all you had ordered or like everyone else and only got a few or none in my case? See you in a couple of weeks in Little Rock!
JD your killing me! Mine hasn't come in yet! Did you get all you had ordered or like everyone else and only got a few or none in my case? See you in a couple of weeks in Little Rock!
I'll have one with your name on it, should you still need it when you come down.
Thanks JD and by the way this was a great write-up on your build. You should work for the hobby business somehow!lol Hope we have good weather for the L.R. race.
Thanks JD and by the way this was a great write-up on your build. You should work for the hobby business somehow!lol Hope we have good weather for the L.R. race.
Everybody that got one or will get one from the initial shipments are in most cases getting them because they pre-ordered them. Sitting around asking ain't getting it done.
He's right on the pre-order and the fact that there aren't that many being shipped on the first go around. I wouldn't look for extra's until May. Trust me when I say I hope everyone gets one. I've been a fan of full fender offroad since I started in this addictive hobby 20 yrs ago. My first RC was a Kyosho that had a real truck looking body instead of a RC10T because it just didn't look real to me. This is going to be a huge class this summer!
The diff gear is the same material as our TC3/ B44 gears and B4 idler gear. All new B4 diff gears are made out of this as well. This material has no coloring and is the most durable we've found. The original photo gear was black because that's all we had at the time.
The T4 CVDs will work. Others:
1283 FT T4 Ti Turnbuckle Set
1406 FT Ti Turnbuckle, 2.00” (blue)
1408 FT Ti Turnbuckle, 2.65” (blue)
1409 FT Ti Turnbuckle, 1” (sway bar) (blue)
1417 FT Ti Turnbuckle, 2.80” (blue)
1585 FT B4 Aluminum Trailing Axle
1595 FT Chassis Lead Weights, 1/4 oz.
1598 FT Blue Aluminum Shock Caps, (blue) see also #6439
1654 FT Solid Axle Pins
1734 FT Blue Body Clip, 4 long, 6 short
1735 FT Blue Body Clip, long
1736 FT Blue Body Clip, short
1770 FT Milled Aluminum Motor Plate, (blue)
1777 Blue Aluminum Shock Ball Ends with Eyelets
1778 FT Milled Aluminum Motor Plate, (black)
1779 FT Servo Mounts, blue aluminum
1780 FT Blue Aluminum Threaded Shock Bushings
1781 FT Rear Shock Bushing (short)
3971 Steering Rack Bearings
6416 Gold Shock Shaft, 1.32” stroke
6417 Gold Shock Shaft, 1.02” stroke
6439 FT Blue Aluminum Shock Caps, (blue) see also #1598
6906 Ball Bearing, PTFE Sealed 3/16 x 3/8”
6937 FT 4-40 Aluminum Locknuts (blue)
6943 FT 8-32 Aluminum Locknuts (blue)
7412 Rear Threaded Shock Body, 1.39”
7414 Front Threaded Shock Body, 1.02”
7416 FT Threaded Shock Collar & O-Rings
7447 T4 Front A-Arm, Carbon
7449 T4 Rear A-Arm, Carbon
7922 GT2 Caster Block 30 deg, (left & right)
9565 B4 / T4 Chassis Brace, Hinge Pin Brace, Carbon
9567 B4 / T4 Top Plate, Carbon
9577 B4 / T4 Steering Block, Inline (left & right) (req. #9623)
9592 B4 / T4 Caster Block 20 deg, (left & right)
9600b FT B4 / T4 Aluminum Motor Plate (blue)
9608 RR Axle Wheel Spacer (silver)
9610b B4 / T4 Blue Servo Saver Bolt
9633 FT T4 Front Threaded Shock Kit, 1.02”
9634 FT T4 Rear Threaded Shock kit, 1.39”
9635 B4 / T4 Sway Bar Kit. Includes color coded bars,
soft (black), med (silver), hard (gold)
9665 FT B4 / T4 Aluminum Hinge Pin Brace V2
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