yokfans

Hello all

I'm new to electric buggy and has just bought a B4 factory team. I find that the rear shocks are leaking oil seriously all the time and I've to rebuild the rear shocks after every 2 packs of battery run. Is it normal or have I done anything wrong with the shocks? Pls help. Thanks.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

When you rebuild your shocks, did you put new orings in as well?

My guess is that you have damaged orings in the shocks and they are leaking. Make sure when you push the shock shaft through the shock body where the rings are you be careful not to snag the orings.

oxymoron

Rebuilding shocks and just re-filling them with oil are two entirely different things.
If you were rebuilding them and changing out o-rings your problem should have gone away if you did it right.
Then again, if you're new to rc cars and jumping it off the house or some other huge ramp the problem you describe is more a result of abuse than it is with faulty shocks.

luckyp

Associated shocks can be difficult to build, but it is doable. First, make sure your shafts are straight and smooth. Next, clean all "flash" from the plastic parts. When your are sliding seal "pack" on the insert tool make sure to lube the "O" rings, I use green slime. You do not need much of this, just enough to wet the entire o-ring. When you put the seal pack in place pay attention for a definate click that tells you the pack is seated. When adding oil I pull the piston to the bottom, fill shock body about 3/4 full, then stroke the shaft, being careful to stay far enough below the oil so as not to draw air into the oil. When I feel I have all the air out I fill the shock body the rest of the way, put a little oil in the cap and thread the cap on the body. I check the rebound, if the shock won't compress completely you need to pull the shaft out, loosen the cap a little, drain a very small amount of oil and tighten cap. Check rebound, repeat bleed if necessary. There are caps with bleeder screws to make this part easier.

nutz4rcyktw

iTrader: (67)

You did not say where the leak is and everyone has given good info for a leak out of the bottom. Don't forget to check the ring that goes at the top of the shock this seals the cap. If built correctly, the cap doesn't need to be too tight and the bottom seals will not leak. Making absolutely certain you don't damage a seal and that the retainer ring "snaps" into place are crucial.

yokfans

Thanks very much to everyone here. I'll take all of your advice and check it thoroughly. Thanks again.

CE28N

As people have mentioned, your area of focus should be on that oring/nylon part sandwich that you insert into the shockbody using that tool that associated gives you. If there is a nick on one of the orings or if the parts aren't seated correctly (you don't hear a distinctive snap when you use the tool) the shock will leak. The associated shocks are trickier to build than other shocks and will require some extra visual inspections to make sure all the parts are seated right.

Chimer

iTrader: (26)

When you change the shock oil you can damage the o-rings if you clean out the inside of the shock body with Nitro Blast or Motor Spray(it eats the o-rings). I always use the Green Slime when I rebuild my shocks. Be sure to put some slime on the o-ring that seals the cap-it will slide over the threads easier without damaging it.

SoCalMitch

There were a batch of shocks that had manufacturing flaws that for some reason will not hold the retaining clip inside the shocks reliably. I have had many shocks dump the oil out and it was not from assembly errors. To make sure it was not me I had someone else build the same shocks with the same results. I have built more associated shocks over the years than I care to count and I have never had an issue with them blowing out this bad.

jamminnay

iTrader: (11)

i always use the greem slime when rebuilding.. also make sure you put some shock oil on the shaft when you slide it through the new orings

JeromeK99

iTrader: (3)

The green slime really does nothing but contaminate your shock fluid... Somehow over the years after being the "cool" thing to do it caught on.. just make sure you put a little of the shock fluid on the o-rings when you are assembling the shock to get them to seal better.

If you really want to do something to help the life of your shocks use the MIP "blue" shock seals http://www.miponline.com/MIP/Tools/P...C_Tools.html#3 instead of the cheap red rubber type you get with the kit. They are stronger and last a whole lot longer..and only $2.00.


Jerome

Jason Pelletier

iTrader: (33)

Associated shocks blow !!!

i drive a b4 and t4 i should know...

I hate'em... gotta rebuild them like every 2 weeks.

Wild Cherry

Wrong !


Green Slime is use for coating the rubber seals ,

it helps protect them from swelling from the silicon shock oil...

pirate60

iTrader: (15)

The mip seals also swell faster than the stock associated ones. Stick with the red associated o-rings coated with green slime and you will be fine.

JeromeK99

iTrader: (3)

I totally disagree with both of the previous posters...

The MIP seals last much longer.. I have used them in many, many different cars over the better part of 2 decades of racing.. If they swell.. it's ok.. they are both round and a circular donut in shape.. the swelling if anything makes them seal better...

How long do you think grease will last on the o-rings in the silicone shock fluid? Not very long.. so you can be cool and do something totally unnecessary if you want.. take a look at the goop in your shock fluid when you change them.... then try without.. you can see the grease in the fluid and left sticking to the piston.

The B4 and T4 manuals even list it as a "Racer's Tip".. they sell it.. they want you to buy it... The B44 doesn't mention it once.... You think if it was that important they might at least continue to list it as a "Racer's Tip".

Do with this what you may...

Have fun all!

Jerome