b4wires

iTrader: (19)

They do exist. Yokomo make them and I saw them on an earlier thread somewhere. I use the stock hub and it works fine.

xtrememadness

iTrader: (2)

richard. racers edge makes them. they are high quality

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

Duh!!!! Thanks!!!

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

Got tired of waiting for a AE T4 Light so!

Wonder how far I'm off from the AE T4 Light!!!!

===

Adjusted the B4 Light to fit my T4 FT.
Worked good (2/27/09) lead the first 8 laps of a 10 lap race, finished second!

Front
Shock tower = 2
Arm = I
Tower link = 1 w/ 3 washers
Hub = B
Height = just below level
Axle height = UP
C-hub = 25 degree
Bump = 2 washers
Toe = 0
1/2 ounce of weight in bulkhead
(Found this after I got home from the race as I checked the steering bearings)

Rear
Shock tower = 0 << drill the inner hole
Arm = I
Tower link = 1 w/2 washers
Hub = A
Axles = level
Wheelbase = Long
Anti-squat = 0

Shocks
Front = 25wt AE
Springs = Green
Pistons = #2
Limiters = 3 (inside)

Rear = 25wt AE
Springs = Black
Pistons = #1
Limiters = 3 (inside)

Front tires
Proline Edges
AE rims

Rear tires
Panther Komoto Dragons
AE rims

Motor and ESC
Speed Passion 13.5
Core-RC 3250 lipo
Battery centered one pad front and rear.
Wires towards the rear.
Spur/P = 81/23

Track (Farmers Hobby Tampa, FL USA)
http://farmershobbyshop.com/

Bumpy
Med/high traction
Wet
Red clay

===

Practice the track was dry and sandy/dusty (they hadn't prepped the track "watered" yet) and this setup worked!

The red clay at that track has a lot of sand in it and there is a lot of loose sand/dust until it's watered.

What up?

iTrader: (14)

what is your truck wt at?

just weighted my B4 with a 3800 and I still need 7 AE weight bars at 7g a peice and the 6 in the rear tranny to get to 1515 overall. I think it will just be easier to buy a reedy pack.

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

Have no idea, local track doesn't have a weight rule!!!

The Core-RC 3250 Lipo is only 210g, so I'm thinking I'm way light!

What up?

iTrader: (14)

Everyone basis there weights off of Roar and I think for truck its like 1700g over all.

Rich Panganiban

iTrader: (72)

I ran Cavalieri's CRCRC setup today for the first time at OCRC's hard packed clay track. The only change was a 13.5 brushless motor. Man, my B4 pushed like a dump truck. It was really stable but lacked agressive turn-in as well as overall steering.

Any suggestions?

Wild Cherry

Could be a couple things ...

Ft Tire ?
Did you use the .5 hubs ?

teambighead

It could be a few things. The set up a recieved a while ago from thielke and pudge donig testing for the lightweight set up was done on the OCRC track...

The tires they noted as running were Proline M3 8175 ribs up front and M3 Square fuzzies in the rear, with buggy grip as tire sauce.

Also, they ran 25 wt front oil with only 1 limiter rather than 2.

Otherwise they were running the CRCRC set-up.

With these changes if you still are experiencing a push, try grinding down the front tires to give them a more worn look, this will make the nose of the car a bit more aggresive.

Also removing the 1/2 degree hubs and running the stock toe hubs will also free up the rear end.... I personally have not felt the need for the 1/2 degree hubs on an indoor clay track, as there most often already enough traction.

Another note, what gearing are you running on your 13.5? Have you gone to the newer style spur gears to move the motor further forward to compensate the the larger pinion gear needed?

Rich Panganiban

iTrader: (72)

For the front tire, I used a set of "well scrubbed" 4-rib M3 tires that normally have a ton of bite.

As far as the .5 hubs, I actually ran the zero degree hubs and left the .5s in the box, since it would tighten the rear end even more.

Thanks for the input.


The track had just recently been redone to a new layout, so the bite was unusually high. I tried both the Square Fuzzies and the Holeshots in M3 and found the Holeshots a little better with the moister conditions.

Shock setup wise, that is definitely the direction I was going with the rear. I normally like a lot of down travel in the rear so when I'm hard on the brakes, it really allows the weight to transfer to the front end and gives me a ton of off power steering. The front shock length seems to be pretty close, just the right amount of on-power steering coming out of the corners.

I do not have the new spur gear yet and my car was definitely under geared even with a 30/81. That will be the next change that I make.

Anyways, thanks for the input. It is definitely appreciated. I could see how this setup would be great for the mod class. It is really easy to drive, super stable with a lot of rear bite out of the corners. But you guys know how the "stock" classes are: You gotta fling it in there and get in and out of the corners in a hurry.

I'll keep testing and making changes and I'll let you know what I end up with.

Thanks again.

AxiomJacob

iTrader: (27)

I ran the setup before with the .5s and it was about impossible to get the car to rotate into the corner. Without them it is a little better but the setup is still gives a lot of rear bite and in most cases a push. Green springs in the back have helped as well as 30 in the back.

Wild Cherry

Rich , first thing I would try is a tire that steers more , like the Panther Switch , Losi Taper or JC Bar Code...


still have a push ?
try a stiffer rear spring first
try moving the rear hub back .030.

Rich Panganiban

iTrader: (72)

I don't think Pro-line would be all that happy with me if I ran a competitor's tire...

AxiomJacob, I did run a pack with the green rear springs and it did help a lot. I think I do need to go heavier with the rear oil as well as playing with the rear roll center a bit.

Wild Cherry

Definitely
grind the ribs first....

or

build your own front ProLine Hole Shot taper pin by cutting the middle pin section & gluing the halves back together .....