Traxxas Slash stripped thread
#1
Traxxas Slash stripped thread
Greetings, new to the hobby and the forums. I've been searching the web and can't find much on this issue. My problem; got a new Traxxas Slash and have made some adjustments/tinkering around with it and when I REMOVE a screw (never been removed by me before) from pretty much any spot the thread comes alone with it (picture the screw with a piece of thread wrapped around it but the thread is plastic from the piece it was screwed into).
Of course when that happens I cannot tighten it back down, is this a common issue, is it because its a low end truck and what’s the fix (other than replacing the piece which I'd be doing a lot of).
I love the truck and the hobby but a little disappointed in the quality.
Of course when that happens I cannot tighten it back down, is this a common issue, is it because its a low end truck and what’s the fix (other than replacing the piece which I'd be doing a lot of).
I love the truck and the hobby but a little disappointed in the quality.
#7
Another fix depending on how bad it is, and you can only use so much CA glue. Try to break apart a toothpick tip and stick it in the stripped hole with a little bit of elmers glue. Let it dry and it'll be good as new without having to retap. But luckily parts for it are not that expensive if you have to replace it.
#8
I would say that the reason so many striped out was that they were over tightened in the first place. May have been assembled that way.
#10
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
I've purchased two Slashes and both had the exact same issue in various spots. I found it was usually in spots where the screw went into a nut on the other side and it was just stripping out the hole. In other spots that wasn't the case making me think it was simply over tightened at the factory. Thankfully they weren't that stripped and when I put the screw back in and tightened down gently it held pretty well. CA is a good temporary fix if you find it won't hold at all. You can also contact Traxxas and explain what you've found. They're either offer a good solution (I'm sure they've heard about this before) and/or send you replacement parts. Their customer service is excellent.
#11
Well sorry for everyone's trouble but glad I'm not alone. LOL I KNEW I'd get the "you turned it the wrong way" post and was going to stress I was not (I'm no engineer and hate to admit I do have to do the righty tight/left loosey thing every now and then).
I did read about CA glue; asked the hobby shop guy and he had no idea what I was talking about; is it just Crazy glue?
I did read about CA glue; asked the hobby shop guy and he had no idea what I was talking about; is it just Crazy glue?
#12
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
Nope, it's a special model glue for use with RC cars. I use the Losi thin kind. It comes with a little hose you cut into small sections and insert into the tip of the bottle. It allows you to be far more precise when building wheels/tires. It's also much thinner so will run and drip easier if you're not careful.
This will give you an idea of some of your choices.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.php/cPath/1_167_295
This will give you an idea of some of your choices.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.php/cPath/1_167_295
#14
Tech Rookie
I have a sneaking suspicion that they use a power driver at the factory when they assemble these. In the past I have overheated plastic parts using my own driver. What happens is the driver spins the screw into the plastic so fast that it heats up and literally melts to the threads. You know this is happening when the screw begins to squeak as you turn it. After you finish turning the screw the plastic cools off and re-hardens. Later you will find that the screw is abnormally hard to turn and frequently will pull plastic out in the threads when you remove it. Personally I have trained myself to take it verrrrry slow when using my electric driver with plastic. I have two Slashes one stock and one that I have modded out and both of them have had at least one stripped suspension piece. I would be surprised if Traxxas is NOT aware that this happens.
One other problem I have had with the Traxxas trucks is that frequently the upper shock mount simply will not stay tight for long without over torqing it. I have looked for a shouldered screw that is long enough to go through the whole shock mount so that I can back it with a nut but no luck so far. Anyone? Right now I have used just a tiny amount of Tamiya thread lock which my LHS tells me does not soften plastic? So far so good. I know some folks use a dab of CA. The hinge pins on the A arms are prone to backing themselves out also. These things should be checked before every race.
These nits aren’t meant to dump on this truck these trucks have become really popular at MOHR here in Denver and we are having a ton of fun with them. They could use a couple of small improvements though. As much commercial success as Traxxas has had with these trucks I don’t think they have a large incentive to fix relatively minor issues.
Steve
One other problem I have had with the Traxxas trucks is that frequently the upper shock mount simply will not stay tight for long without over torqing it. I have looked for a shouldered screw that is long enough to go through the whole shock mount so that I can back it with a nut but no luck so far. Anyone? Right now I have used just a tiny amount of Tamiya thread lock which my LHS tells me does not soften plastic? So far so good. I know some folks use a dab of CA. The hinge pins on the A arms are prone to backing themselves out also. These things should be checked before every race.
These nits aren’t meant to dump on this truck these trucks have become really popular at MOHR here in Denver and we are having a ton of fun with them. They could use a couple of small improvements though. As much commercial success as Traxxas has had with these trucks I don’t think they have a large incentive to fix relatively minor issues.
Steve