how to get more turning....??
#1
how to get more turning....??
can anyone help me on this? i was at the track for the first time yesterday with my xxxt-cr and my truck by far does not have enough turning. the turning radius is wayyy to wide. i had the servo arm straight up and from what im told at the track its all set up properly other than the alignment. i got the truck withing 1/8 inch or less tonight and it still wont push the tires out a long ways. ive seen som trucks that look like they want to fold the tires over. is there anything i can do?
#2
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
If you can't physically turn any tighter than you're going to have to try to get the car to oversteer rather than understeer. More traction in the front, slightly less in the rear can bring that on. Adjusting the slipper some can help rear steer the car too. I have the same problem with my RC10T4 on our local track in one turn, I'm learning to set the car up to make that one tight turn efficiently. It comes to setting up to oversteer some so the ass end comes around. Lots of throttle control is required too.
#3
Tech Elite
iTrader: (23)
is your dual steer trim rate at 100%? that would help give you more steering. if you want a ton of steering, go all the way in in the front top and middle on the bottom hole for the shock. in the rear top go 1 out from the inside and the bottom all the way in. this will give you some rear bite and a ton of steering. in working on that but i cant seem top get it aggressive enough on the small tight turns.
#4
ive got to look into the D/R. im not sure the dx3s has that. i do have expo up to 100%....but i dont know if it should be?
edit: it does, just gotta find it!
edit: it does, just gotta find it!
#6
loose pack red clay, outdoors.
we are in the middle of a rebuild, so no jumps were built when i took this
we are in the middle of a rebuild, so no jumps were built when i took this
#7
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
well if you have all your adjustments done right on your radio, you can try standing your rear shocks up further
another way to remedy your troubles would be to just let off of the throttle earlier, maybe even tap the brakes if necessary
another way to remedy your troubles would be to just let off of the throttle earlier, maybe even tap the brakes if necessary
Last edited by action135; 12-28-2008 at 11:13 PM. Reason: more thoughts
#8
i tried that on the oval, and it was...okay...10.5 down the straight wants to really enter the corners hard and letting out at the front side of the corner doesnt get much slowdown. im going to have to figure out the dual rate i think. as well as some deeper groove front tires.
#9
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
Couple of things you can try.
Obviously tires are one of the biggest changes you can make, but some other subtle changes would be to lengthen the rear turnbuckles a bit or stand up the rear shocks one hole or lay down the fronts one hole. Only make one change at a time and test drive after each change.
A slight toe-out on the front tires will also provide a bit more aggressive steering entering the turn, but I wouldn't go more than a degree or so. Same with camber. -1.5 degrees or so on the camber so that the top of the tire is leaned in slightly. This allows the contact patch to even out when pressure is applied during a turn.
There are a few chassis tuning guides available online to learn the basics...I don't have any links handy though.
Driving will also make a big difference. When you run smaller/tighter tracks, sometimes you will need to tap the brakes to get into the turn properly. You may find that at the correct speed for the turn that you have more steering than you realize.
Obviously tires are one of the biggest changes you can make, but some other subtle changes would be to lengthen the rear turnbuckles a bit or stand up the rear shocks one hole or lay down the fronts one hole. Only make one change at a time and test drive after each change.
A slight toe-out on the front tires will also provide a bit more aggressive steering entering the turn, but I wouldn't go more than a degree or so. Same with camber. -1.5 degrees or so on the camber so that the top of the tire is leaned in slightly. This allows the contact patch to even out when pressure is applied during a turn.
There are a few chassis tuning guides available online to learn the basics...I don't have any links handy though.
Driving will also make a big difference. When you run smaller/tighter tracks, sometimes you will need to tap the brakes to get into the turn properly. You may find that at the correct speed for the turn that you have more steering than you realize.
#10
You could have the same setup as everyone else, and still end up pushing the truck all around. So, if that is the case, tune it to your driving style. It sounds like you need to degrade the rear traction or increase the front. You can do this by raising the rear ride height just a few turns and see what happens, or try lowering the front end a few turns, this can give more steering.
#11
im confused as ever by now
im trying to get my rear arms at or dang close to parallel to the ground at ride height. i tried switching to stiffer springs out back thinking it would pick up some weight and raise the car. it didnt. then i went about setting the car up static with no springs in it to the setup i wanted geometry wise. after doing that i tried matching up the holes with my shocks and none of them come even close to matching. how in the world do you get the rear arms close to parallel and also i have absolutely zero droop it seems...
im trying to get my rear arms at or dang close to parallel to the ground at ride height. i tried switching to stiffer springs out back thinking it would pick up some weight and raise the car. it didnt. then i went about setting the car up static with no springs in it to the setup i wanted geometry wise. after doing that i tried matching up the holes with my shocks and none of them come even close to matching. how in the world do you get the rear arms close to parallel and also i have absolutely zero droop it seems...
#12
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
get your car completely ready to run, with the body off.
pick up one end of the car about a foot off the ground and let it drop, wherever it settles is the ride height you have.
and from there just adjust your shocks with either spacers or if you have threaded bodies adjust them.
do each end like this till you get them to the height you want, and if you really wanna get precise put some coin down for the associated ride height gage, it's a nice piece.
pick up one end of the car about a foot off the ground and let it drop, wherever it settles is the ride height you have.
and from there just adjust your shocks with either spacers or if you have threaded bodies adjust them.
do each end like this till you get them to the height you want, and if you really wanna get precise put some coin down for the associated ride height gage, it's a nice piece.
#13
keep in mind that the wrong tires can give it a pushing feel. are you running a rear swaybar?
#14
i've done that. with losi silver springs basically cranked all the way down, where the setup wont droop at all.........it still sits super low. it should be way up in the air i'd think...
#15
if you could post a few pics of your car we could get a better idea of what your situation is