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Old 01-02-2009, 06:07 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by JR007 View Post
I have the 12 turn geared at 21 teeth. It doesn't get too hot after 5 mins.

The manual says NOT to change motor timing on brushed motors. I may try it anyway, done everything else.

Punch control is disabled.

I may have a GTX I can borrow to eliminate everything but the esc....
The amount of power each speeco needs is different so what works on one might not work as well on another. I still think that if it runs for 5 minutes and then gets funny I would like to see what happens if you get to try a lipo or a really top of the line 4600 or so matched racing pack. I just think that will solve the problem.
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Old 01-02-2009, 06:28 PM   #32
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do you have the castl link? the rx progrming is kinda difficult...
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Old 01-02-2009, 07:35 PM   #33
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No castle link Just the "blip and trigger" programming.

The battery thing is a bit harder. I'll have to buy a new battery, and there is no LHS, so the esc is the easier test for now. I still struggle to see how it can be the batteries when they work mint wit hthe 19 turn in standard wiring, but don't work with the 19 turn in High-Power wiring.

If I try the GTX next week and have no problem, i'd be fairly sure it's the ESC. Maybe i'll pull the wiring apart and resolder it all again. Repeating the same task hoping for a different result is a sign of insanity, but the GF says i'm driving her nuts going on about this, so it may work!
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:36 PM   #34
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Wired it back into standard configuration. Works fine, as it did before. Just can't use my 12 turn

Looks like i'll have to get a new esc for the hot motor, unless some bright spark comes up with another idea why it wouldn't work.
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Old 01-04-2009, 10:38 PM   #35
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Without reading all of the suggestions/comments and based on your original description of the symptoms, my two bits...it could be a faulty charger resulting in poorly charged batteries. I had a very similar situation with my Novak system.
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Old 01-04-2009, 11:48 PM   #36
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Thanks for the idea. It's not that though. I have wired it back to the standard configuration and it's sweet again.

My batteries are getting old, but they're not completely gone. I doubt they would stop it working all together considering I use them for racing with the 19 turn and I get a good 8 minutes of power out of them before they start dropping off.
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Old 01-05-2009, 01:22 PM   #37
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I uncovered a set of my batteries that were not useable in my Mamba Max setup. These batteries were enough to power a 10-turn machine-wound motor with a Novak GTX setup in my BJ4WE that I used to own.

I would definitely suspect it's the battery. Even if it's sometimes smooth, sometimes stutter, the instantaneous current of a battery (which is the most critical factor besides continuous current) is not a constant thing since batteries are chemical in nature.

In a brushless system, when you throttle it, the brushless system is basically saying "give me all you got... is that all you got?" to the battery.

A quality battery is definitely a must-have with brushless systems. Most NiMH are good enough with brushless systems for 1/10th scale, but make sure that all the cells are in good condition. They are all wired in series so it only takes one weak cell to make the whole pack a POS (piece of ****).

Try to test your setup with a known good pack with high discharge (say from a pit mate or a friend). Then and only then, you will know if it's your ESC or not.

Also, try to update your Sidewinder's firmware if you have the USB dongle (sold separately for Sidewinders). This is not just the USB-A type to USB-FTDI type cord, for the Sidewinder, it's actually a little module that plugs into the connector on the ESC that goes to the receiver, except you plug it into the dongle and not to the receiver to program it.
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