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Tekin RX8 1/8 Scale Brushless ESC Thread

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Tekin RX8 1/8 Scale Brushless ESC Thread

Old 02-15-2013, 01:29 PM
  #17086  
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Originally Posted by aland
I'm running a RX8 - Pro4 4600 - combo in my DESC410V2.

What could it be when it feels like the car is losing power after about 4mins of runtime. Batteries are new, tried several. The powerloss is not huge but it's there.
I have used this combo in a Losi and in a Slash and I have never noticed this before.

Could it be the temp in the ESC? It's around 160-170 after 6 mins.

Funny that I get higher temps in the ESC when I have swtiched to a lighter car...?

Other settings:
RX8 currentlimit around 65%
EPA throttle around 90%
Pinion 13 (really small track)

Thanks for your help!
What batteries are they? Your esc temp and gearing for a small track should be fine.
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:34 PM
  #17087  
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
What batteries are they? Your esc temp and gearing for a small track should be fine.
Nanotech shorties, brand new. Have tried both dual shorties and single, just to see if there was some issues with the connectors.

I will try a 12t pinion tomorrow.
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:43 PM
  #17088  
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Gearing down isn't what you're looking for. If you're losing power every run around 4 minutes I'd say your batteries aren't up to the task, no matter how new they are. We do not pull back power due to temperatures unless the esc thermals, we will then pull all of the throttle away, not just some.
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:37 AM
  #17089  
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I got higher temps on the esc when I switched to a more efficient truck too. It was because the airflow wasn't as good over the esc. Putting the fan back on brought me back down around 110 from 180, while it used to be around 125 no fan. Make sure it can breath.

As for power loss, I haven't found it to do so on the rx8, but my Castle mmp was horrible once it got hot. I agree with Randy though, this sounds more like a battery dump to me. That makes a lot of sense since you say shorty pack, as I think the max capacity on those is 4200, and I used to see fading around 5 min on anything less than a 5000 with good C. The 6600 nanos I used for a long time used to dump like that around the 7 min mark of an 8min main.
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Old 02-16-2013, 03:23 AM
  #17090  
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
I doubt 14awg wire will be sufficient. You can try it but if the wires are as warm or nearly as warm as the motor, I'd swap it out.

Why you thinking of giving it a shot?
To avoid any stress on RX8's posts and because I have 13AWG wires on a MMP I'm using on a buggy with the same motor + lipos and it doesn't get hot. Just wanted to try it out

I'm trying to figure out what is the max length of screw that can go into the T8 threads.. Do you eventually have this info?

edit: for the guys interested it's 6mm I just opened my T8 to mesure it

Last edited by Pulse_; 02-16-2013 at 05:39 AM.
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:45 AM
  #17091  
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i need some help here guys, my issue is my motor is getting wayyyyyy too hot.
brand new losi8 rx8 and 2050 on a 4s and the gearing is 16/45 and the motor went 205* geared down to 15/45 the change was only a few degrees. the track i run on is revelation raceway and its huge, lots of full throttle sections.. i pulled the power down in the rx8 to 80% and it did nothing for the temps then went and put the throttle setting on #1 and the hit comes in too slow but, it did not make a difference in the motor temps.. the car is not binding and rolls free..
any idea's before i smoke this motor.
thanks ralph
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:35 AM
  #17092  
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@Ralph How long did you run the car? Rev is big so if the layout is open and flowing 16/45 isn't too far off.

Do you have a lot of wheel spin?
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:22 AM
  #17093  
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
@Ralph How long did you run the car? Rev is big so if the layout is open and flowing 16/45 isn't too far off.

Do you have a lot of wheel spin?
Randy, roughly 8-9 min, and yes the track was loose and dusty so i had my fair share of wheel spin.. i even pulled my m11x down to 80% to try to control the wheel spin witch was ok but i would flat out get beat down the straight.. im learning the set up on the 8 as i came from the rc8b....the weather was in the mid 80's yesturday as well.
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:33 PM
  #17094  
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I recently bought a mint condition RX8/T8 combo for my 8th scale buggy, and tried it out at the track for the first time today. First impressions, I liked it, the esc was very responsive (maybe too responsive ), and was very smooth.

But, one thing I noticed was that the RX8 interfered with my Hitec Servo too much. The servo and the ESC would sometimes cut off, whether I'm about to hit a jump or land from a jump. Is this normal? How do I fix it? I'm going to be switching to a Savox soon, and I want to avoid the loss of power. Thanks.

Also, is there any way to reset the setting on the Rx8 back to factory (Default)settings? Thanks.
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:42 PM
  #17095  
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Put a cap on it dude! I run a savox with spektrum radio without a capacitor its glitch city.
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:44 PM
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Oh to reset it read the directions..haha hotwire or teamtekin.com i forgot how to do it one touch.
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by I Wheelie A LOT
I recently bought a mint condition RX8/T8 combo for my 8th scale buggy, and tried it out at the track for the first time today. First impressions, I liked it, the esc was very responsive (maybe too responsive ), and was very smooth.

But, one thing I noticed was that the RX8 interfered with my Hitec Servo too much. The servo and the ESC would sometimes cut off, whether I'm about to hit a jump or land from a jump. Is this normal? How do I fix it? I'm going to be switching to a Savox soon, and I want to avoid the loss of power. Thanks.

Also, is there any way to reset the setting on the Rx8 back to factory (Default)settings? Thanks.
I had similar issues with an RX8 that is from 2010/11 and a JR high speed servo (JRPSZ9100HVS). It got worse over time, and finally had to get the internal BEC replaced.

Now I have freed up the steering a little bit, and avoid to have the front wheels get caught under a pipe (stalled digital servos eat BECs for breakfast).

Hitec and Savox servos do draw more current. Which servos do you (plan to) use?

Randy: Does the RX8 internal BEC shut off at current overload to protect itself, e.g., when front wheels get caught under a pipe?
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Starter box
I had similar issues with an RX8 that is from 2010/11 and a JR high speed servo (JRPSZ9100HVS). It got worse over time, and finally had to get the internal BEC replaced.

Now I have freed up the steering a little bit, and avoid to have the front wheels get caught under a pipe (stalled digital servos eat BECs for breakfast).

Hitec and Savox servos do draw more current. Which servos do you (plan to) use?

Randy: Does the RX8 internal BEC shut off at current overload to protect itself, e.g., when front wheels get caught under a pipe?
I plan to use the Savox 1257tg/1258tg.
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ralph brunt
Randy, roughly 8-9 min, and yes the track was loose and dusty so i had my fair share of wheel spin.. i even pulled my m11x down to 80% to try to control the wheel spin witch was ok but i would flat out get beat down the straight.. im learning the set up on the 8 as i came from the rc8b....the weather was in the mid 80's yesturday as well.
i was running 16/46 at rev with the 2050kv and my temps were fine but it felt a bit slow. i went to a 18 t pinion and it jumped up quite a bit. maybe like 195. other drivers recommended i drop the pinion down to like a 14-15 and add some boost. i havent been back in a couple weeks but next time i go out I'll be putting an extra heat sink on the motor. i also cut some holes in the body to get some better airflow to the motor since mine sits up front.
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:18 PM
  #17100  
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hello randy, o have any info on ty campbell trx truck????? pics or anything
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