Yea, I was putting 2000 back on the qualifiers in the truggy woth the 1700 motor on 5s and around 1500 mah back in the buggy with the 1900 motor on 5s. No info on the main packs yet, I havent gotten arround to charging them. Those numbers include basically running the whole warm up time also so they will look a inflated if you calculate with 5 minutes. Probably more like 7 minutes of real run time.
I have no knowledge of the medusa but my castle/neu 2200 and my neu 1512 2.5d/f can both be turned by hand.
The Medusa motors are the only ones I've ever seen that are very notchy and hard to turn by hand. Not sure why they are like this, but it's doesn't seem to hurt their performance any.
On a related note...I ran some laps this afternoon with the RX8 and my Medusa V2 2000kv since my T8 2050 is out of commission . I was really shocked how well the speed control handled the Medusa. It was surprisingly smooth and punchy even from a dead stop. I also didn't notice any issues taking off after a spinout and coasting backwards. Honestly it felt just as fast as the T8 and even after a long run the motor temps were only in the high 140's and that was without the heatsink.
I've gotta say that this speed control seems virtually perfect. I'm just a little concerned about the motors at this point.
im either gonna buy a tekin combo 2050 or buy neu 1512 2.5d/f.....but if tekins backorders takes to long ill prolly be buying the neu..but for those who have ran both or know...which one is a better choice...i heard that tekin is having problems also
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I think the direct drive is the problem. With the shock from the car's trany breaking the rotors inside the motor. Rc Monster has a 1/8 scale Slierenchel they sell acts like a slipper.... But i'm new to the 1/8 E class. All my 1/10 electric cars have a slipper. So should the 1/8 !!?
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I think the direct drive is the problem. With the shock from the car's trany breaking the rotors inside the motor. Rc Monster has a 1/8 scale Slierenchel they sell acts like a slipper.... But i'm new to the 1/8 E class. All my 1/10 electric cars have a slipper. So should the 1/8 !!?
+1 I think a slipperential from rc-monster is a must have...
One other thing I don't get is why they keep the center diff on e-conversions...replacing it with a dead simple slipper like on 1/10th scale 4wd cars would I think be just as good.... and it would solve the rear wheels backspinning problems someone talked about on this thread..
+1 I think a slipperential from rc-monster is a must have...
One other thing I don't get is why they keep the center diff on e-conversions...replacing it with a dead simple slipper like on 1/10th scale 4wd cars would I think be just as good.... and it would solve the rear wheels backspinning problems someone talked about on this thread..
I have close to 10 hours of runtime on my 2050 buggy motor in my direct drive RC8 with no issues, so I'm hoping the couple bad rotors were a bad batch. The backwards spinning wheels are from using too thin of a diff fluid in the center (5k in a truggy) and that is the only case I've seen. On bigger outdoor tracks I think replacing the center diff with a slipper unit would be ideal as you would have insane forward punch. However, on small, tight indoor tracks the affect of the center diff on making the car rotate is essential.
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+1 I think a slipperential from rc-monster is a must have...
One other thing I don't get is why they keep the center diff on e-conversions...replacing it with a dead simple slipper like on 1/10th scale 4wd cars would I think be just as good.... and it would solve the rear wheels backspinning problems someone talked about on this thread..
In 1/8th scale you need a center diff & there is only 1 guy that has that rear wheel back spin problem. I have a slipperential in one of my cars & it works well but is in no way a "must have". I've been running direct drive for over a year & don't even ware out the plastic spurs. It's not a problem at all.
We have now seen a few rotors slip on the shaft due to a bad glue joint, a very few out of many many motors so far. They appear to fail in the first few runs or not all. We think it is a manufacturing problem and not a design issue.
If you see the pinion get misaligned with the spur gear the shaft may have slipped. We have already made some changes to the manufacturing process and the design.
Something had to happen sooner or later. It has been a pretty amazing couple weeks with no problems. We are still smiling and will promptly take care of anything we learn from here on. Any failed rotors will be replaced immediately. Please contact support@teamtekin.com
We have now seen a few rotors slip on the shaft due to a bad glue joint, a very few out of many many motors so far. They appear to fail in the first few runs or not all. We think it is a manufacturing problem and not a design issue.
If you see the pinion get misaligned with the spur gear the shaft may have slipped. We have already made some changes to the manufacturing process and the design.
Something had to happen sooner or later. It has been a pretty amazing couple weeks with no problems. We are still smiling and will promptly take care of anything we learn from here on. Any failed rotors will be replaced immediately. Please contact support@teamtekin.com
Tekin Prez
That's what I like to see. Prompt willingness to resolve issues! If only some other companies would follow suit. Thanks guys!
We are selling 2 packs pretty reasonable. We can probably work out some bulk deals for people also.
We think it is mostly dirt getting in the fan. Impacts can also damage them, but they should not be able to flex enough to let the fan blades hit the top. there is a dimple in the middle of the top to hold it down also. We are looking at an air filter, but it really kills the air flow.
I have a MMM V1 and the fan will last all season. I have installed one of these, http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-3ra...8-p-22626.html it keeps the blades form catching the grill work and makes the fan last.
They are also available in a 25x25 size.
We are selling 2 packs pretty reasonable. We can probably work out some bulk deals for people also.
We think it is mostly dirt getting in the fan. Impacts can also damage them, but they should not be able to flex enough to let the fan blades hit the top. there is a dimple in the middle of the top to hold it down also. We are looking at an air filter, but it really kills the air flow.
The first one just stopped working, I got a new one from your driver here. That one lost one blade in the second heat, a second blade broke in the main. On Sunday at practice the it finally stopped. I understand and am not upset but I'm woundering why you choose the same fan that fails regularly in the MMM's?
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