1/8 Medusa motors, thoughts, opinions, suggestions etc....
#1
1/8 Medusa motors, thoughts, opinions, suggestions etc....
here's a thread for the Medusa motors. I'm going to give them a good run and I want others who have experience to share what they've learned.
here's my question
I have a medusa motor. I have put in the 3mm screws (i took them from my extra screws box from the Kyosho lazer). the fit ok however there is a bit of a shake even when they're in beyond the 1.5mm depth they need to be snug.
I called them and they said that the screws (the 3mm) should be snug.
any thoughts about this? anyone else have issues like this?
thanks
Sean
here's my question
I have a medusa motor. I have put in the 3mm screws (i took them from my extra screws box from the Kyosho lazer). the fit ok however there is a bit of a shake even when they're in beyond the 1.5mm depth they need to be snug.
I called them and they said that the screws (the 3mm) should be snug.
any thoughts about this? anyone else have issues like this?
thanks
Sean
#2
I had no issues with the screws (Maybe you have the wrong thread?). I have the 36-60-2000V2 in an old MBX5 running on 5S A123's. I've been running it every weekend for almost 3 months. The motor works great & is 1/2 the price of a Nue 1512. The only tip I have to offer is that an AE 1/10 scale snap-on heat sink fits well (I had one laying around). In fact you can almost fit 2 of them on it. I put a regular on & the short one that AE offers on mine. All in all I'm very happy I bought it. Medusa informs me that there will be a 2200Kv version of the 36-60 V2 out this month.
#3
Tech Adept
I run my Medusa 36-60 2000 kV motor in my 8ight conversion and it's an awesome motor especially for the price. I run it with a MMM and 5s1p A123 pack with a 14T pinion. Plenty of speed and tons of low end and it barely gets warm. I think the hottest it has gotten in my buggy has been around 145 and the ESC around 120.
Is anyone running this motor in their truggies? I was thinking of getting a medusa for my lighting pro arr conversion but I don't know if it can handle all that weight. Or is there going to be a larger motor can made by medusa for truggies?
Is anyone running this motor in their truggies? I was thinking of getting a medusa for my lighting pro arr conversion but I don't know if it can handle all that weight. Or is there going to be a larger motor can made by medusa for truggies?
#8
Medusa 50mm 2200kv, closed (older version), MM ESC
Medusa 50mm 2200kv, closed (older version)
so I had the chance to try this one out this weekend. Here are my thoughts.
Mamba Max,
being sponsored by Mamba is a great honour. I received my esc this past week. here are a few tricks that will assist in changing the wires to 12gage.
first cut the 13gage flush to the board; this will stop the heat from transferring to the wire. then solder from the bottom to release the last bit of the wire from the solder hole. I found that once it was out, I heated up the solder in the hole and quickly removed the soldering iron and blew through the hole to clear the solder and open it up. this helps later on with the attachment of the new 12g wire.
when I tin the 12g wire, I like to cut about 35% of the circumference off to help it fit into the circuit board.
I find that this technique works best to help avoid overheating the board.
I started my setup with a 13t and 46 spur on the Losi 8. my medusa has the heat sink on it. I only have 2 5000 stick packs for now so I resorted to using the Dean's connectors. I did the Y skip right off the ESC. it worked quite well.
I attached the esc to my RCPD conversion with 2 pieces of DSTape, quite thin. this allowed for air to flow along the bottom. then I attached zip ties right along the 3 capacitors on top of the heat sink, and in front of the heat sink holding down the MM case. once this was done, I put one of the "woody woodpecker" guy's brushless fans on top, (these fans are pretty awesome@@@!!!) he's posted here before.
the motor was hardwired and double shrinkwrapped. the CC BEC I stuck on the bottom of the Circuit board where the wires stick through. I removed the metal "female" part from the CC MM ESC wire to the receiver by bending up the plastic tab and then I pulled the wire out. this will allow for it to be replaced if I want to use this esc in a 1/10 application in the future.
All I can say is that this thing is fast. I don't think that I would want a 60mm version as this one has tons of torque. I might have to go up 1 or 2 teeth on the pinion.
with this setup the receiver is always on when the battery is plugged in. the ESC is only on when the power is on. on my maiden run, the power switch broke off. still works though.
another point. I did have to raise the body posts to fit the 2 stick lipos. I thought that it was going to be ugly however it isn't as bad as I thought.
so I had the chance to try this one out this weekend. Here are my thoughts.
Mamba Max,
being sponsored by Mamba is a great honour. I received my esc this past week. here are a few tricks that will assist in changing the wires to 12gage.
first cut the 13gage flush to the board; this will stop the heat from transferring to the wire. then solder from the bottom to release the last bit of the wire from the solder hole. I found that once it was out, I heated up the solder in the hole and quickly removed the soldering iron and blew through the hole to clear the solder and open it up. this helps later on with the attachment of the new 12g wire.
when I tin the 12g wire, I like to cut about 35% of the circumference off to help it fit into the circuit board.
I find that this technique works best to help avoid overheating the board.
I started my setup with a 13t and 46 spur on the Losi 8. my medusa has the heat sink on it. I only have 2 5000 stick packs for now so I resorted to using the Dean's connectors. I did the Y skip right off the ESC. it worked quite well.
I attached the esc to my RCPD conversion with 2 pieces of DSTape, quite thin. this allowed for air to flow along the bottom. then I attached zip ties right along the 3 capacitors on top of the heat sink, and in front of the heat sink holding down the MM case. once this was done, I put one of the "woody woodpecker" guy's brushless fans on top, (these fans are pretty awesome@@@!!!) he's posted here before.
the motor was hardwired and double shrinkwrapped. the CC BEC I stuck on the bottom of the Circuit board where the wires stick through. I removed the metal "female" part from the CC MM ESC wire to the receiver by bending up the plastic tab and then I pulled the wire out. this will allow for it to be replaced if I want to use this esc in a 1/10 application in the future.
All I can say is that this thing is fast. I don't think that I would want a 60mm version as this one has tons of torque. I might have to go up 1 or 2 teeth on the pinion.
with this setup the receiver is always on when the battery is plugged in. the ESC is only on when the power is on. on my maiden run, the power switch broke off. still works though.
another point. I did have to raise the body posts to fit the 2 stick lipos. I thought that it was going to be ugly however it isn't as bad as I thought.
#9
Tech Adept
Hi Sambonee, do you have any pics of your car? I am thinking of putting spacers to move the body up as it rubs slightly against my A123 cell. It angles up slightly because it doesn't fit flush with my battery tray and I am too lazy to make a proper tray for those cells I am running my motor in my 8ight with a MMMv2 and 14T pinion with stock 48T spur and the setup feels almost perfect for small tracks. I think 15T would be good for larger tracks. I get around 145-150 degrees on the motor and under 120 on the ESC. I was thinking of changing the ESC to a MM since the MMMv2 seems like overkill, that and it takes up a lot of chassis space. My friends were all blown away to see how large that ESC is.
Also, what temps are you running on that 50 mm motor as well on the ESC?
Also, what temps are you running on that 50 mm motor as well on the ESC?
#11
I just ordered the 60-2000kv, hopefully it will be here on friday. I am finally converting my Revo to elec.
Tekno conv.
Medusa 60-2000kv
MMM
4s 5000ah
Hyperion
Any ides on run time. I am going to assume that 20 minutes shouldnt be an issue.
Tekno conv.
Medusa 60-2000kv
MMM
4s 5000ah
Hyperion
Any ides on run time. I am going to assume that 20 minutes shouldnt be an issue.
#13
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
i have a few questions for the guys running the 36 60 2000 motors in buggys.
1...what pinion/ spur combo and is the buggy the standard 13/43 diff setup.
2...what cell count are you using?
3....what type/ size tracks have you run them on and what are the temps and overall power feeling?
4... what are some of the settings you have tried in the mamba max or monster max escs like timing, throttle curve ect.
1...what pinion/ spur combo and is the buggy the standard 13/43 diff setup.
2...what cell count are you using?
3....what type/ size tracks have you run them on and what are the temps and overall power feeling?
4... what are some of the settings you have tried in the mamba max or monster max escs like timing, throttle curve ect.
#14
Tech Addict
iTrader: (26)
i have a few questions for the guys running the 36 60 2000 motors in buggys.
1...what pinion/ spur combo and is the buggy the standard 13/43 diff setup.
2...what cell count are you using?
3....what type/ size tracks have you run them on and what are the temps and overall power feeling?
4... what are some of the settings you have tried in the mamba max or monster max escs like timing, throttle curve ect.
1...what pinion/ spur combo and is the buggy the standard 13/43 diff setup.
2...what cell count are you using?
3....what type/ size tracks have you run them on and what are the temps and overall power feeling?
4... what are some of the settings you have tried in the mamba max or monster max escs like timing, throttle curve ect.
Gear for your track - http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_top_speed.html
#15
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
anyone know the ratio for an RC8? Had it written down but can't find it.
For me, I use the following RC8:
Medusa 2000Kv 60mm V2 motor (or the Neu 1512 2.5D 2050Kv motor)
PolyRC 4S 6000mah Battery 25C
Gearing range between 17T - 20T
Temps: 135 - 145ish
Tracks: tight to more free flowing
ESC Settings (Mamba Monster V1)
- Timing Lowest
- Cutoff 13.2V
- Brakes 40%
- Punch Control 20%
- Start Power Low
using anything lower than 10% for punch control would cause more pronounced cogging effect on harder throttle pulls. You have to be really smooth on throttle to do that, or, play with start power I am thinking.
I don't really change gearing between the Neu and the medusa. Both do about the same, Medusa feels like it has more low end, Neu, more top.
For me, I use the following RC8:
Medusa 2000Kv 60mm V2 motor (or the Neu 1512 2.5D 2050Kv motor)
PolyRC 4S 6000mah Battery 25C
Gearing range between 17T - 20T
Temps: 135 - 145ish
Tracks: tight to more free flowing
ESC Settings (Mamba Monster V1)
- Timing Lowest
- Cutoff 13.2V
- Brakes 40%
- Punch Control 20%
- Start Power Low
using anything lower than 10% for punch control would cause more pronounced cogging effect on harder throttle pulls. You have to be really smooth on throttle to do that, or, play with start power I am thinking.
I don't really change gearing between the Neu and the medusa. Both do about the same, Medusa feels like it has more low end, Neu, more top.