Fusion EX1R PRO Set up/tuning/Build thread
#1
Fusion EX1R PRO Set up/tuning/Build thread
just starting a helper thread for the fusion EX1R pro line of electric buggys,feal free to post tips, tricks and pics,chassis gearing or electrical
I just finished the build on my EX-1R ill have it at the track tomorrow night and ill post some diff and shock oil set ups also suspension set ups
Build tips i figured out so far..
1-diffs come dry..and have 3-4 paper type gaskets pre installed..ditch these when re assembling and use 1 blue gasket.Nice and smooth with no play
2-if your using a fin canned motor like the neu, you have to unbolt the center chasis brace and drill a hole approx 10mm to the right of stock hole to relocate the center brace. Dremeling a small slot in the brace is necessary for drive shaft clearance
3- take every screw metal to metal and LOCTITE IT!! even the set screws in the CVD's..you can also put some large heat shrink over the cvd's to cover the drive pin just in case a set screw comes loose
4-Flip the upper wing mount around 180 degrees so you can move the wing more forward and make the wing more sturdy
5-the stock shocks are full of oil but some of it was emulsified..They need to be drained to put the correct weight oil in anyway.When i refilled the shocks i only pushed the shock shaft in about 1/2 the way and tightened down the cap.This seemed to give the best mix of rebound and dampening.
6-Not sure about all motors but i need to cut about 4mm off the end of my neu shaft to get it to clear the battery tray,you also may need to cut the slot back on the shaft.the pinion gear sits wayyyyy down on the motor shaft. after its assembled make sure you have 2-3 mm of clearance for chassis flex
7-if you want a wider width by about 4mm for some more stability the rc8 FT hubs fit right on with no slop for some more off set...
current set up for smooth indoor on clay in cold weather on my car is
35wt ft
30 rear
no pre load on rear bar
4mm pre load on front sway bar
blue springs f/r
46/13 gearing
one caster clip in front of upper arm one in rear
wheel base is set short
all the way back on ackerman plate
5/7/3 diff (may need to go higher in center the front seems like its unloading to much, but will be ultimately corrected if i need more or less brake)
1 degree toe out
0 degree of camber in the front
1 degree of camber in the rear
ride hight is level in the rear
slightly lower then level in the front
Panther switch clay with medium inserts on PL V2 wheels
this set up should be very stable and easy to drive,if it seems like its searching for more rear traction i may ditch the rear sway bar or go lighter then stock
will update tomorrow after a few hours of practice
http://img162.imageshack.us/my.php?i...npro001ii5.jpg
http://img527.imageshack.us/my.php?i...npro002og2.jpg
http://img114.imageshack.us/my.php?i...npro004mk6.jpg
http://img127.imageshack.us/my.php?i...npro005bu4.jpg
http://img127.imageshack.us/my.php?i...npro006ol2.jpg
http://img385.imageshack.us/my.php?i...npro010xz9.jpg
http://img354.imageshack.us/my.php?i...npro007re2.jpg
I just finished the build on my EX-1R ill have it at the track tomorrow night and ill post some diff and shock oil set ups also suspension set ups
Build tips i figured out so far..
1-diffs come dry..and have 3-4 paper type gaskets pre installed..ditch these when re assembling and use 1 blue gasket.Nice and smooth with no play
2-if your using a fin canned motor like the neu, you have to unbolt the center chasis brace and drill a hole approx 10mm to the right of stock hole to relocate the center brace. Dremeling a small slot in the brace is necessary for drive shaft clearance
3- take every screw metal to metal and LOCTITE IT!! even the set screws in the CVD's..you can also put some large heat shrink over the cvd's to cover the drive pin just in case a set screw comes loose
4-Flip the upper wing mount around 180 degrees so you can move the wing more forward and make the wing more sturdy
5-the stock shocks are full of oil but some of it was emulsified..They need to be drained to put the correct weight oil in anyway.When i refilled the shocks i only pushed the shock shaft in about 1/2 the way and tightened down the cap.This seemed to give the best mix of rebound and dampening.
6-Not sure about all motors but i need to cut about 4mm off the end of my neu shaft to get it to clear the battery tray,you also may need to cut the slot back on the shaft.the pinion gear sits wayyyyy down on the motor shaft. after its assembled make sure you have 2-3 mm of clearance for chassis flex
7-if you want a wider width by about 4mm for some more stability the rc8 FT hubs fit right on with no slop for some more off set...
current set up for smooth indoor on clay in cold weather on my car is
35wt ft
30 rear
no pre load on rear bar
4mm pre load on front sway bar
blue springs f/r
46/13 gearing
one caster clip in front of upper arm one in rear
wheel base is set short
all the way back on ackerman plate
5/7/3 diff (may need to go higher in center the front seems like its unloading to much, but will be ultimately corrected if i need more or less brake)
1 degree toe out
0 degree of camber in the front
1 degree of camber in the rear
ride hight is level in the rear
slightly lower then level in the front
Panther switch clay with medium inserts on PL V2 wheels
this set up should be very stable and easy to drive,if it seems like its searching for more rear traction i may ditch the rear sway bar or go lighter then stock
will update tomorrow after a few hours of practice
http://img162.imageshack.us/my.php?i...npro001ii5.jpg
http://img527.imageshack.us/my.php?i...npro002og2.jpg
http://img114.imageshack.us/my.php?i...npro004mk6.jpg
http://img127.imageshack.us/my.php?i...npro005bu4.jpg
http://img127.imageshack.us/my.php?i...npro006ol2.jpg
http://img385.imageshack.us/my.php?i...npro010xz9.jpg
http://img354.imageshack.us/my.php?i...npro007re2.jpg
#2
Mine was shipped yesterday, so I should have it by the weekend. I'll post up if I find anything that will be helpful to know as well
#5
im glad you guys like the rc8 body swap i did...deffintaly gives it a meaner look ,and it being a J-concepts body it dose not really look like a RC8. if you didnt want to cut the front end off the RC8 body in sure you wouldnt have to when you trimmed the body, i just think its easier to get a body on and off with the nose seperate from the body
Im also working on a quick release tray for this car, i got a few ideas, i wanna be able to do pit stops for the 30 minute mains here in the summer in about 25 seconds,so i need a FAST BATTERY TRAY!!
Im also working on a quick release tray for this car, i got a few ideas, i wanna be able to do pit stops for the 30 minute mains here in the summer in about 25 seconds,so i need a FAST BATTERY TRAY!!
#7
You can get by with only removing one body clip from each of the battery trays, and then swivel the strap to the side. That should make a pretty quick batt swap and less chance of loosing clips, etc.
The prototype car had a slick pivoting strap but we haven't got them made yet. It was easier for the factory to do the body post thing.
baddass, you don't need MA to build it for you... just take two packs and take off the deans and make it into a saddle pack....
I might have to grab an RC8 body too. I know that the 8ight body also can work pretty good.
The prototype car had a slick pivoting strap but we haven't got them made yet. It was easier for the factory to do the body post thing.
baddass, you don't need MA to build it for you... just take two packs and take off the deans and make it into a saddle pack....
I might have to grab an RC8 body too. I know that the 8ight body also can work pretty good.
#9
#10
#11
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
If you could post a diagram on how to wire it up it would be sweet. I can charge 2 2s packs but I only have 2 balancers and would like to be able to charge 4 2s packs at once with 2 chargers like a normal race day swapping out packs every heat. So I need to balance charge 2 on each charger and only use two balancers.
confused???
confused???
#13
I actually bought an MBX5R body from JC, and after I saw the RC8 body mounted up, sent it back for a swap out