Brushed mod motors extinct?
10-01-2008, 08:42 PM
#16
RCdad- Im right there with ya. I have alot of V2's and Checkpoints and in offroad these motor's will last 30-40 runs on most occasions before any maintance is needed.
I love the feel of them to.
I have alot of Reedy,Check and Orion arms but the only thing is most of them are for my onroad side and are 7 turns.
I have alot of 11 turn arms for trinity,epic.
Let me know if any of these fit what you need.
Otherwise it's almost cheaper to pick up USED measured Mod motor's that it is even armature's from motor companies.
Let me know if I can help.
Les
I love the feel of them to.
I have alot of Reedy,Check and Orion arms but the only thing is most of them are for my onroad side and are 7 turns.
I have alot of 11 turn arms for trinity,epic.
Let me know if any of these fit what you need.
Otherwise it's almost cheaper to pick up USED measured Mod motor's that it is even armature's from motor companies.
Let me know if I can help.
Les
10-01-2008, 10:31 PM
#17
Try looking on ebay.
I have listed a BUNCH of brushed motors and feel like I am giving them away for what people keep bidding...
I am sure theres more than enough on ebay to keep your supplies from drying up.
If not I would say Banzai could keep ya covored!
I have listed a BUNCH of brushed motors and feel like I am giving them away for what people keep bidding...
I am sure theres more than enough on ebay to keep your supplies from drying up.
If not I would say Banzai could keep ya covored!
10-01-2008, 11:44 PM
#18
I've been into RCs for 20 years now. As a kid, my first real RC was a RC10CE graphite (see avatar) and then later a Jrx-T (converted to an LXT), and a RC10LSS.
All I've ever known was brushed stock motors. After a 10+ year hiatus, I started to get into cheapie modified motors. Some of the lower turn, single/double machine-wounds were pretty hot IMO.
This year, I bought a brushless for the first time, the Mamba Max 5700. At first I regretted it, since I have one of the best brushed controllers on the market, the Novak GTX (this thing is still a beauty, so small and compact).
After running the Mamba Max with the brushless 5700kV, I've never looked back ever again. The brushless was a little hard to get used to, but after a few runs with it, I wondered how I ever got along with my cars without it. No longer will I have to worry whether I had enough stretch to get up to speed for a double (or a triple) jumps, no longer will I have to worry about holding up traffic on the straightaway.
After tuning this ESC via Castle Link software, the ESC and Motor feels very comfortable. The throttle does not "jump" as some people claim with brushless systems.
I've enjoyed my time with brushed. I even own a Cobra Lathe to cut my brushed motors to keep them in top shape. However, since the brushless, I do not miss having to service it at all. I do not miss the times when I worry that the motor isn't enough for my car. I do not miss the uncertainties I faced when gearing since brushless has so much more torque across the entire RPM band...
I think brushed motors WILL be extinct one day. The maintenance and the performance alone is enough to obsolete the brushed IMO...
Some people are still die-hard brushed motor fans, and I can respect that. It's market share that manufacturers care for the most. If majority of the market or the trend of the market is moving towards brushless, you can bet that brushed will become "nearly" extinct as NiCd batteries when NiMH batteries matured...
All I've ever known was brushed stock motors. After a 10+ year hiatus, I started to get into cheapie modified motors. Some of the lower turn, single/double machine-wounds were pretty hot IMO.
This year, I bought a brushless for the first time, the Mamba Max 5700. At first I regretted it, since I have one of the best brushed controllers on the market, the Novak GTX (this thing is still a beauty, so small and compact).
After running the Mamba Max with the brushless 5700kV, I've never looked back ever again. The brushless was a little hard to get used to, but after a few runs with it, I wondered how I ever got along with my cars without it. No longer will I have to worry whether I had enough stretch to get up to speed for a double (or a triple) jumps, no longer will I have to worry about holding up traffic on the straightaway.
After tuning this ESC via Castle Link software, the ESC and Motor feels very comfortable. The throttle does not "jump" as some people claim with brushless systems.
I've enjoyed my time with brushed. I even own a Cobra Lathe to cut my brushed motors to keep them in top shape. However, since the brushless, I do not miss having to service it at all. I do not miss the times when I worry that the motor isn't enough for my car. I do not miss the uncertainties I faced when gearing since brushless has so much more torque across the entire RPM band...
I think brushed motors WILL be extinct one day. The maintenance and the performance alone is enough to obsolete the brushed IMO...
Some people are still die-hard brushed motor fans, and I can respect that. It's market share that manufacturers care for the most. If majority of the market or the trend of the market is moving towards brushless, you can bet that brushed will become "nearly" extinct as NiCd batteries when NiMH batteries matured...
10-02-2008, 12:57 AM
#19
Brushed motors are the pox, Sooner they are gone the better.
10-02-2008, 08:46 AM
#20
I have enough used motors, but most have been cut and re-cut, bearings are getting sloppy, brush hoods tarnished etc. They have just lost their peak. I'm not an eBay fan, if I want someone's misrepresented old crap I can find that locally. I'll only buy nib off ebay, and I did grab a few of those Reedy's while they're still available.
It appears that Banzai is going to be the way to go if I want new cans with fresh magnets and new bearings. By the time you zap the magnets and replace the bearings, then buy a new armature, it just doesn't add up. BanzaiMom, I'll be in touch soon.
It appears that Banzai is going to be the way to go if I want new cans with fresh magnets and new bearings. By the time you zap the magnets and replace the bearings, then buy a new armature, it just doesn't add up. BanzaiMom, I'll be in touch soon.
10-02-2008, 10:57 AM
#21
I have enough used motors, but most have been cut and re-cut, bearings are getting sloppy, brush hoods tarnished etc. They have just lost their peak. I'm not an eBay fan, if I want someone's misrepresented old crap I can find that locally. I'll only buy nib off ebay, and I did grab a few of those Reedy's while they're still available.
It appears that Banzai is going to be the way to go if I want new cans with fresh magnets and new bearings. By the time you zap the magnets and replace the bearings, then buy a new armature, it just doesn't add up. BanzaiMom, I'll be in touch soon.
It appears that Banzai is going to be the way to go if I want new cans with fresh magnets and new bearings. By the time you zap the magnets and replace the bearings, then buy a new armature, it just doesn't add up. BanzaiMom, I'll be in touch soon.
take the hoods off and dip them in some brasso or copper cleaner.. but make sure to use a brush hood realigning tool when you place them back on. you can buy new bearings and the motors can be cut many times before worrying.
10-02-2008, 11:33 AM
#22
For whatever reason I just enjoy working on brushed motors. I clean bearings every 2-4 runs, cut comms and replace brushes nearly every race day (4-10 runs) on every motor. I even dyno them once or twice each season to make sure the springs are still set right. My comms all have only 1 or 2 cuts left and the magnets just don't have the force they used to. I did send some cans off to get the magnets zapped but was only marginally happy with the results.
IMO there comes a point where a complete new motor is in order, usually after one full season at most...although I have one unusually durable Trinity D5 can that's been in use for 3 years with a variety of armatures in it.
Does anyone have a good tip for replacing bearings? Bushings come out easy enough and the endbell bearing isn't usually a problem but when trying to drive out the bearing in the front of the can I always seem to pop the inner race out of the bearing and end up damaging the can to get the outer race peeled out by itself.
IMO there comes a point where a complete new motor is in order, usually after one full season at most...although I have one unusually durable Trinity D5 can that's been in use for 3 years with a variety of armatures in it.
Does anyone have a good tip for replacing bearings? Bushings come out easy enough and the endbell bearing isn't usually a problem but when trying to drive out the bearing in the front of the can I always seem to pop the inner race out of the bearing and end up damaging the can to get the outer race peeled out by itself.
10-02-2008, 02:25 PM
#23
For whatever reason I just enjoy working on brushed motors. I clean bearings every 2-4 runs, cut comms and replace brushes nearly every race day (4-10 runs) on every motor. I even dyno them once or twice each season to make sure the springs are still set right. My comms all have only 1 or 2 cuts left and the magnets just don't have the force they used to. I did send some cans off to get the magnets zapped but was only marginally happy with the results.
IMO there comes a point where a complete new motor is in order, usually after one full season at most...although I have one unusually durable Trinity D5 can that's been in use for 3 years with a variety of armatures in it.
Does anyone have a good tip for replacing bearings? Bushings come out easy enough and the end bell bearing isn't usually a problem but when trying to drive out the bearing in the front of the can I always seem to pop the inner race out of the bearing and end up damaging the can to get the outer race peeled out by itself.
IMO there comes a point where a complete new motor is in order, usually after one full season at most...although I have one unusually durable Trinity D5 can that's been in use for 3 years with a variety of armatures in it.
Does anyone have a good tip for replacing bearings? Bushings come out easy enough and the end bell bearing isn't usually a problem but when trying to drive out the bearing in the front of the can I always seem to pop the inner race out of the bearing and end up damaging the can to get the outer race peeled out by itself.
The D5 lasted 3 years, eh? There's a hint there: the cans with good magnets last longer and are not as susceptible to degradation.
The proper way to replace can bearings is with a bearing tool (specially designed for removing and pressing in bearings). However before I got a bearing press I used an improvised method as follows. I had an old slot car wheel (aluminum). It was big enough that the bearing would fit inside the wheel. So I put the wheel inside the can, took a looonnng 4-40 screw and put that in the bearing from the outside and put a nut on the other end. Hold the nut with a nut driver and slowly tighten the 4-40 screw. The secret to successful bearing removal is not to pound on it but to apply pressure slowly. Slow pressure will remove them without damage. Then you can use the equivalent technique to get them back in. If using the improvised method, stop before they are all the way in and then use a wood dowel larger than the diameter of the bearing to pound it in the rest of the way. Being larger than the bearing, it will be stopped by the can before it can damage the bearing.
10-02-2008, 04:29 PM
#24
RC Dad: When Brandon put in that good battery pack his speed sure came up for the main. i was worried the B44 guy was gonna beat ya! Can't be having that! when i raced that guy the day before with the loaner brushless B4, took a lot of throttle control to keep the car going forward for sure.
It takes alittle getting used to going from brushed to brushless in my opinion. Just seems like there is much more punch. When you have an ESC though that lets you play with the various settings like a Mamba Max, etc. You can tune it to feel just like you like. Pretty much what I did with the Mamba Monster ESC and my Brushless RC8. you also need to be good on the throttle finger, but having that power there is a blast.
may be worth going with 1 brushless setup in a vehicle to get used to the feel and working from there.
It takes alittle getting used to going from brushed to brushless in my opinion. Just seems like there is much more punch. When you have an ESC though that lets you play with the various settings like a Mamba Max, etc. You can tune it to feel just like you like. Pretty much what I did with the Mamba Monster ESC and my Brushless RC8. you also need to be good on the throttle finger, but having that power there is a blast.
may be worth going with 1 brushless setup in a vehicle to get used to the feel and working from there.
10-03-2008, 08:13 AM
#25
Yeah, the poor kid had to qualify with a stick pack out of the nitro starter box while we charged up a good ProMatch pack for the main!
I think we'll be switching at least one car over to brushless this winter. We have run BL in the 1/18 but not 1/10 yet. I like the concept of the mamba system computer link but haven't been able to work it to any usable advantage yet in minis.
I think I'd rather look for something ROAR legal for 1/10 in case we actually get to some bigger races in the next year or two. Any suggestions for 4-6 cell setup? That way we can run it in 1/12 on carpet this winter and hopefully figure it out before off-road starts again.
I think we'll be switching at least one car over to brushless this winter. We have run BL in the 1/18 but not 1/10 yet. I like the concept of the mamba system computer link but haven't been able to work it to any usable advantage yet in minis.
I think I'd rather look for something ROAR legal for 1/10 in case we actually get to some bigger races in the next year or two. Any suggestions for 4-6 cell setup? That way we can run it in 1/12 on carpet this winter and hopefully figure it out before off-road starts again.
Last edited by RC Dad; 10-03-2008 at 12:55 PM.
10-03-2008, 08:38 AM
#26
It used to be nice being able to swap out a $35 armature with the right wind for the track, compared to having to swap out an $85 brushless motor today.
Although having 1 single lipo battery makes up for it!
Although having 1 single lipo battery makes up for it!
10-03-2008, 11:46 AM
#27
Regarding the feel issue and the need for a ROAR legal setup, consider the Novak Light series. We’ve tried a couple, seem to work pretty well for offroad. Kinda like running a double or triple wind instead of a single. A couple of the brushed fans at our track have ran some hot laps and they seemed to be encouraged too.
Doesn’t mean they won’t take some getting used to. I’m guessing most of the guys that are having a hard time adjusting to brushless have years of experience. The Lights work great with the punch adjustability of a Speed Passion GT controller, makes a smooth combo for us anyway.
Doesn’t mean they won’t take some getting used to. I’m guessing most of the guys that are having a hard time adjusting to brushless have years of experience. The Lights work great with the punch adjustability of a Speed Passion GT controller, makes a smooth combo for us anyway.
10-03-2008, 11:54 AM
#28
Regarding the feel issue and the need for a ROAR legal setup, consider the Novak Light series. We’ve tried a couple, seem to work pretty well for offroad. Kinda like running a double or triple wind instead of a single. A couple of the brushed fans at our track have ran some hot laps and they seemed to be encouraged too.
Doesn’t mean they won’t take some getting used to. I’m guessing most of the guys that are having a hard time adjusting to brushless have years of experience. The Lights work great with the punch adjustability of a Speed Passion GT controller, makes a smooth combo for us anyway.
Doesn’t mean they won’t take some getting used to. I’m guessing most of the guys that are having a hard time adjusting to brushless have years of experience. The Lights work great with the punch adjustability of a Speed Passion GT controller, makes a smooth combo for us anyway.
I have 7.5L it's a good motor. You have to get used to it alittle bit but it's awesome when you do. Very fast IMHO.
10-03-2008, 01:04 PM
#29
I was looking at those light series for that same reason. What are thoughts on the Sphere or GTB speedos so I can go back and forth between B/BL if the track requires it?
Also, 17.5 is the stock equivalent, right (for 1/12 scale)? Does it have to be sensored to be ROAR legal? Are there BL speedos that do both sensored and non?
Also, 17.5 is the stock equivalent, right (for 1/12 scale)? Does it have to be sensored to be ROAR legal? Are there BL speedos that do both sensored and non?
10-03-2008, 01:10 PM
#30
general concensus I get is that the LRP sphere esc works really well for a sensored ESC. Tekin's RS also appears to work well too.
I would probably go with whatever ESC and motor combo that has the sensor wire detachable from the motor and the ESC.
I would probably go with whatever ESC and motor combo that has the sensor wire detachable from the motor and the ESC.