Jim Bob

iTrader: (2)

I just ordered a Kyosho Lazer ZX5 (non-SP) and want to know what parts I should order since no LHS stock Kyosho. I am guessing A-arms, spurs, knuckles?

Thanks

ultima

I broke a few castor blocks/hubs (LA254) a while back with only slight impacts - but I haven't busted anymore of these despite some very heavy collisions. I think the part has been strengthened. So kudos to Kyosho for addressing this issue!
Other than that, I bent a rear shock shaft (was able to straighten it), and bent the spur gear layshaft (because I didn't tighten the motor sufficiently).

mog ruith

iTrader: (6)

shock stay or shock tower

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

I'd replace that shock shaft. Any slight bend will cause binding and possibly wear out your shock seals...

Bike racer

iTrader: (6)

What parts break on teh Kyosho ZX5? All of them if you try hard enough......


You want to get the aluminum front pivot BEFORE you break the plastic one cause when that breaks it takes the diff case with it.

Arms, caster blocks, hubs and the shock stay uprights.

Jason Pelletier

iTrader: (33)

Get the aluminum front pivot block, It will pay for itself. I have a sp but i break hubs and front arms sometimes.


Dogbones wear out and cause's the car to feel like crap. so when those wear out replace them.

Rfury

iTrader: (6)

I found it hates being landed nose first. I broke the chassis right behind the front diff case.

Other than that I have found the car to be super strong. I just suck at jumping and land the car wrong a lot.

Jason Pelletier

iTrader: (33)

Remeber, Alittle throttle will lift the nose in the air.

Rfury

iTrader: (6)

Its a 8th scale track and the jumps are contoured with lips to give the heavier buggies the lift needed to jump the HUGE triples and quads that the tracks have around here. I have hit them and never lifted from full throttle and still landed nose first. Its probably a combo of my driving and the setup. The setup is better for smaller tracks with less big air.

For this reason I have decided to go for an electric 8th scale. The tracks here are not built for 10th scale electrics. The big air jumps break them all. No matter who makes the car or what class its for. They are car breakers for the 10th scale cars. The ZX-5 is a dream to drive and easy to work on though. I like it a lot. I will hate to see it go when I sell it.

Exterminator

If your starting with the zx-5 non sp. You might want to think about stocking up on some front end parts. Shock tower mounts, C-blocks and front arms. If you can find one get the SP upgrade kit. it's well worth the cost and is a much better handling ride.
I have raced a SP outdoors on 8th scale tracks all summer without any breakage problems. Set up so the nose doesn't dive on blown out jumps is the key to keeping the car together.
IF you can't find the SP upgrade. you can replace the front end parts with SP ones as you get wear and tear. Arms and hubs should only set you back about 20. The dogbones are the expensive part. somewhere in the 30 range I think.

good luck and keep driving

Rfury

iTrader: (6)

The main thing with mine is I suck. That's why it broke.

Jim Bob

iTrader: (2)

I can't find the aluminum hubs or knuckles on a-main, does anyone know where to get them or the part numbers?

rcjunkie3000

iTrader: (94)

I've been racing off-road nearly every weekend since January. I've broken mostly front arms due to bad landings, clipping the track's barrier pipe from to not paying attention, or driving in the street and clipping a car's front tire by being stupid driving under people's cars.

Another part I broke was the rear shock tower mount from a very very bad landing. It also broke along with the rear plastic hinge pin holder when someone rammed sqare into the rear of my car; turn marshall put my car back on a high speed straight when cars just turned the corner.

In the beginning I broke an SP kit steering knuckle and castor block. I haven't broken since, I think like everyone mentions, Kyosho beefed up that part.

So my list of my replacement parts so far are:
Front arms, shock tower mounts, castor block/steering knuckle, and rear hinge pin holder.

Some solutions that have worked or my driving has gotten a little better is that I replaced all my shock tower mounts with the aluminum KMC mounts front and rear from speedtechrc.com. I also replaced the rear hinge pin holder with Kyosho part #KYOLAW37 aluminum hinge pin holder.

As for the front and rear shock towers, they havent failed me since. I think they are the most durable part of the car. I've even seen people crack their chassis in half towards the front. I've been waiting for them to break so I can get the cool looking carbon fiber ones. Oh well, at least that saves me some $$$ for now.

Jim Bob

iTrader: (2)

What degree caster blocks do I want? 4,7,10 etc?

kawirider

iTrader: (14)

aluminu, front and rear hubs are on ebay by three racing along with front pivot mount as well and very reasonable. buy the aluminum shock tower mounts front and rear, they are the same part, the stock ones crack quite easily if you land on the top at all. with those parts the car is REAL tough.