SBV2 pro buggy, is it any good?
07-22-2008, 03:21 AM
#1
SBV2 pro buggy, is it any good?
i plan on purchasing an MRC SBV2 pro by the end of the summer and want to know if their any good. ill be running spektrum, novak 5.5 and SPC 4600 6 cell nimh's, along with either a JR servo or a waterproof traxxas servo
does anyone run it? if so, tips?
thanks
does anyone run it? if so, tips?
thanks
07-22-2008, 04:41 AM
#2
Just going on specs and looking at it, it looks pretty good. Where are you going to get parts for that thing? And what made you decide on that car? Thats a bit of an odd choice. You obviously dont mind purple, so since you can get over that flaw you ought to look at the Hot Bodies D4 WE here. Its a very solid car and its proven. I'm not sure how long that Academy is even going to be produced because they haven't sold many of them at all.
07-22-2008, 06:03 AM
#3
idk really, its just different from a lot of things ive seen, and, i already planed for part deficiencies, im ordering $400 in spare stuff that i know ill break, i actually looked at the hot bodies buggy, but i dont like the 3x3 configuration, it would make all my other packs worthless
07-22-2008, 10:48 AM
#4
So far on my son's I know that the factory setup is good but the shocks (30wt/white springs) were too soft for almost every track we've been to. Stiffer shock oil (35) and harder springs are in order. Associated springs will fit the Academy shocks but are very tight, Losi springs are slightly too big in diameter but that's what we're using as we have a bigger assortment to tune with and they work fine. I believe he's running green fronts and pink or orange rears right now and it handles great but still not enough pop on some jumps.
Other than that it's awesome. No durability issues so far other than the plastic outdrives - order extras (2 sets) as they wear very quickly. The factory tires are even pretty decent, but we use red ifmar studs on loose tracks.
It drives so different from the SB pro kit - the SBV2 really flexes and sticks to the track compared to the older version. Most hobby shops can get Academy parts but some have to be ordered in sets of 2, so plan to buy everything in pairs if you special order. Stormer usually keeps a pretty good assortment on hand.
Other than that it's awesome. No durability issues so far other than the plastic outdrives - order extras (2 sets) as they wear very quickly. The factory tires are even pretty decent, but we use red ifmar studs on loose tracks.
It drives so different from the SB pro kit - the SBV2 really flexes and sticks to the track compared to the older version. Most hobby shops can get Academy parts but some have to be ordered in sets of 2, so plan to buy everything in pairs if you special order. Stormer usually keeps a pretty good assortment on hand.
07-22-2008, 12:12 PM
#5
The SBV2 Pro is a very good performer, but you will want to do the following to get the most out of it or have on hand:
1. Purchase AE lower shock cups, and use AE springs. The lower cups will allow the springs to fit perfectly to the cups as Academy cups are just a tad bigger. I liked running green front springs and silver rear springs.
2. From memory, the B3 titanium turnbuckle kit will work on the SB V2 series. I ran lunsfords all around as I preferred those to the stock steel, though the stock steel is pretty strong.
3. If using stock tires, (they are actually pretty good) go with a better foam. the stock foam doesn't last very long. I used losi firm foams, others, were using proline grey I believe. I ran a full sized rear losi foams in the fronts as they were pretty big compared to other 4wd front tires, but worked well.
4. purchase the steel outdrives for ultimate durability.
5. purchase the rear 3 degree toe in mount
6. Don't build the diffs with the kit diff grease. Use AE grease or something similar.
If I recall correctly, AE shock pistons can work in the Academy shocks with some filing. You could also just use the stock pistons and drill as needed.
The SB Pro kit used a much more flexible plastic and the top deck was two piece. Also, the motor mount left ALOT to be desired. the sport version was better. The V2 Pro did alot to solve this.
I really enjoyed my SB V2 Pro when I had it, and if there was a class for it out here I would have kept it.
As for parts, I would say the usual suspects as other kits I woudl stock up on. Only thing I broke that I can remember on the SB V2 Pro was the front shock tower.
RC Dad's sons really get those wheelers going (we attend some of the same events). if I lived where they were, would be a third academy at the track!
1. Purchase AE lower shock cups, and use AE springs. The lower cups will allow the springs to fit perfectly to the cups as Academy cups are just a tad bigger. I liked running green front springs and silver rear springs.
2. From memory, the B3 titanium turnbuckle kit will work on the SB V2 series. I ran lunsfords all around as I preferred those to the stock steel, though the stock steel is pretty strong.
3. If using stock tires, (they are actually pretty good) go with a better foam. the stock foam doesn't last very long. I used losi firm foams, others, were using proline grey I believe. I ran a full sized rear losi foams in the fronts as they were pretty big compared to other 4wd front tires, but worked well.
4. purchase the steel outdrives for ultimate durability.
5. purchase the rear 3 degree toe in mount
6. Don't build the diffs with the kit diff grease. Use AE grease or something similar.
If I recall correctly, AE shock pistons can work in the Academy shocks with some filing. You could also just use the stock pistons and drill as needed.
The SB Pro kit used a much more flexible plastic and the top deck was two piece. Also, the motor mount left ALOT to be desired. the sport version was better. The V2 Pro did alot to solve this.
I really enjoyed my SB V2 Pro when I had it, and if there was a class for it out here I would have kept it.
As for parts, I would say the usual suspects as other kits I woudl stock up on. Only thing I broke that I can remember on the SB V2 Pro was the front shock tower.
RC Dad's sons really get those wheelers going (we attend some of the same events). if I lived where they were, would be a third academy at the track!
07-22-2008, 01:41 PM
#6
its a good piece, i know brian reigle ('wyd') runs 1 after moving out of a b4 and x6, he's pleased with it. 1 tip i could give is find out what motors folks in ur area run, and maybe even go 1-2turns slower. slower is faster and slower is easy on tires 
R
R
07-22-2008, 04:32 PM
#9
From what I have seen and been told - if you need parts either call MRC yourself or have your hobby shop call them for you. They seem very happy to help.
I built the original SV2 car for the Car Action review years ago - really enjoyed the built, thought it was very good piece. Wish I could have driven it!!
I built the original SV2 car for the Car Action review years ago - really enjoyed the built, thought it was very good piece. Wish I could have driven it!!
07-22-2008, 06:11 PM
#10
Love mine definitely put the steel outdrives in it (I think the newer kit's have them already)and A-main has all the parts.
07-22-2008, 06:13 PM
#11
07-22-2008, 06:15 PM
#12
07-22-2008, 06:32 PM
#13
OK not all the part's
but stormer has it on order https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=ACDVT006
but stormer has it on order https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=ACDVT006
07-22-2008, 10:14 PM
#14
Tech Adept
OK not all the part'sbut stormer has it on order https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=ACDVT006
but stormer has it on order https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=ACDVT006
In the meantime you can order the FRP top deck. I have a friend that just ordered it but it seems you can only get it directly from MRC and I guess my buddy got the last one. Hopefully they get more in. http://www.modelrec.com/search/product-view.asp?ID=6893
Tough to say if it is tougher than the standard V2 deck but I guess its better than nothing. My SBV2 is literally being held together with thick 4" zip ties and some epoxy putty. Works better than you would think. I would say one of the nice things about the SBV2 is that you can win one off ebay for relatively cheap. My other buddy just ebayed his and only got 88 bucks plus shipping.
Oh yeah A main and Stormer are great places to order parts for the car. Just kind of sucks not being able to buy parts for this car at your LHS. Luckily, I've pretty much stockpiled enough parts to build another SBV2.
07-22-2008, 11:40 PM
#15
1st, some background on me so you understand my perspective. The sbv2 is my first offroad car. I've been doing rc for about a year now and my sbv2 is 6 months old.
The car, in my opinion is below average in durability. I've watched a lot of other 4wd's take a lot more abuse and not break. Just so you know I run a mamba 5700 motor, and its pretty wicked fast. My guess is if you ran a 13.5 it'd hold together a bit better.
Tuning this thing has been a challenge. It's a light car. With my trakpower lipo and no ballast it weighs 1600g. It's been tough to find the right spring, shock oil, piston combo that works, but I think I'm finally getting close.
Steering is great after you do the mod. Stock shocks....I gave up on those. Not enough droop travel, rebuilding is a pain, parts are harder to get. I used to break/bend a lot of front shock shafts. Sometimes parts run out at Amain or stormer or MRC, it gets pretty frustrating. So I switched to b44 shocks. Everyone's got these parts and losipartshouse is an awesome place to shop.
In summary, I think when this car is working right, is a blast to drive. I also think it's a high maintenance beatch. To make sure I can run all day at the track, I carry a smorgasboard of spare parts with me. Then usually, at the end of the track day, I have to order parts to replace the spares that got used.
The car, in my opinion is below average in durability. I've watched a lot of other 4wd's take a lot more abuse and not break. Just so you know I run a mamba 5700 motor, and its pretty wicked fast. My guess is if you ran a 13.5 it'd hold together a bit better.
Tuning this thing has been a challenge. It's a light car. With my trakpower lipo and no ballast it weighs 1600g. It's been tough to find the right spring, shock oil, piston combo that works, but I think I'm finally getting close.
Steering is great after you do the mod. Stock shocks....I gave up on those. Not enough droop travel, rebuilding is a pain, parts are harder to get. I used to break/bend a lot of front shock shafts. Sometimes parts run out at Amain or stormer or MRC, it gets pretty frustrating. So I switched to b44 shocks. Everyone's got these parts and losipartshouse is an awesome place to shop.
In summary, I think when this car is working right, is a blast to drive. I also think it's a high maintenance beatch. To make sure I can run all day at the track, I carry a smorgasboard of spare parts with me. Then usually, at the end of the track day, I have to order parts to replace the spares that got used.