I have been using my Tekno coverted Losi 8ight buggy and truggy for a few weeks now and I have been amazed by the performance and quality of the kits. I was a little concerned about the clutch at first because I had issues with the original two shoe clutch. I can now report the new three shoe clutch works great, it runs cool and allows a very smooth power delivery. One thing, to remove the clutch bell for service you have to remove the clutch from the motor. Which is not a biggie, but constant removal wears out the set screw and is one extra step. I decided to make a custom tool that allows me to hold the clutch so I can loosen the screw holding the bell on. I took some cheapo vise grips and ground down the end until it could slip between the motor and the clutch. I can now hold the clutch and remove the bell screw without having to remove the clutch from the motor.
Normally you would do this with the motor removed from the chassis, just showing how the tool fits.
I have been using my Tekno coverted Losi 8ight buggy and truggy for a few weeks now and I have been amazed by the performance and quality of the kits. I was a little concerned about the clutch at first because I had issues with the original two shoe clutch. I can now report the new three shoe clutch works great, it runs cool and allows a very smooth power delivery. One thing, to remove the clutch bell for service you have to remove the clutch from the motor. Which is not a biggie, but constant removal wears out the set screw and is one extra step. I decided to make a custom tool that allows me to hold the clutch so I can loosen the screw holding the bell on. I took some cheapo vise grips and gound down the end until it could slip between the motor and the clutch. I can now hold the clutch and remove the bell screw without having to remove the clutch from the motor.
Normally you would do this with the motor removed from the chassis, just showing how the tool fits.
Very cool idea I just started using the clutch and was wondering how the heck to hold the clutch to remove the bell and now I know!
I apologize if this question has already been answered, but this is a long thread! Anyways, I was looking at the Motor KV/ Battery comparison chart on the impakt site. My question is, what if you run a motor/battery that is out of the 30-35K rpm range? For example, some of the motors out there are at too high of a Kv that they wont provide the 30-35K rpm like the new LRP motors. Will running that be unsafe or does it just decrease the lifespan of the motor/battery? (When I say life span I mean how long the motor/battery will actually be functional, not run time). I am not saying that I am going to run the LRP motor, I was just curious if motors like that with higher kv are not really feasible setups? By the way, anyone have any experience with the speed passion motors/esc? Thanks!
I apologize if this question has already been answered, but this is a long thread! Anyways, I was looking at the Motor KV/ Battery comparison chart on the impakt site. My question is, what if you run a motor/battery that is out of the 30-35K rpm range? For example, some of the motors out there are at too high of a Kv that they wont provide the 30-35K rpm like the new LRP motors. Will running that be unsafe or does it just decrease the lifespan of the motor/battery? (When I say life span I mean how long the motor/battery will actually be functional, not run time). I am not saying that I am going to run the LRP motor, I was just curious if motors like that with higher kv are not really feasible setups? By the way, anyone have any experience with the speed passion motors/esc? Thanks!
-Sean
I believe all motors have their MAX RPM. For example, the Neu 1515 and 1512 max RPM is about 60K. I believe so long's you do not over due the max rpm and you do not over heat your motor, you should be okay. But running outside of the 30-35K will be more for bashing, and most likely to fast for racing. Also, I have notice when running out side or faster than that range, you are subjecting your tires to un-mount off of your wheels. so be careful...
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* Mugen MBX6T -- TEKNO Conversion -- Tekin 1700kv System on 5S
* Losi E-8ight-B 1.8 -- TEKNO Conversion -- Tekin 1900kv System on 5S
* Mugen EMBX5 Prospec -- Castle Creation MMM 2200kv System on 4S
* Xray M18 -- Castle something on 2S
* EMBX6 in HD action and E-8ight-T 2.0 in HD action: just YOUTUBE(teeforb)
I have been using my Tekno coverted Losi 8ight buggy and truggy for a few weeks now and I have been amazed by the performance and quality of the kits. I was a little concerned about the clutch at first because I had issues with the original two shoe clutch. I can now report the new three shoe clutch works great, it runs cool and allows a very smooth power delivery. One thing, to remove the clutch bell for service you have to remove the clutch from the motor. Which is not a biggie, but constant removal wears out the set screw and is one extra step. I decided to make a custom tool that allows me to hold the clutch so I can loosen the screw holding the bell on. I took some cheapo vise grips and gound down the end until it could slip between the motor and the clutch. I can now hold the clutch and remove the bell screw without having to remove the clutch from the motor.
I normally just use the 2.5mm driver inserted in to the set screw. This holds the motor from turning, while I loosen the end screw securing the clutch bell. Does that make sense? I think you need 2x 2.5mm drivers/allen wrenches.
Thanks TeeForb
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Losi 8 2.0 Buggy + 1.5 Truggy & Associated SC8
Tekno RC Conversion Kits on all
MMM ESC
LEKTRON "square can" brushless motors
Fully Max - Polyquest - Neu - Flight Power LiPo's
[quote=Marzac2;6570109]I normally just use the 2.5mm driver inserted in to the set screw. This holds the motor from turning, while I loosen the end screw securing the clutch bell. Does that make sense? I think you need 2x 2.5mm drivers/allen wrenches.
A driver would work, but you have to be careful because most drivers are hardened (brittle) and could snap off if you get carried away. An allen wrench would be a better choice. I decided to go with the modded vise grip because I wanted to keep the set screw socket as pristine as possible.
I believe all motors have their MAX RPM. For example, the Neu 1515 and 1512 max RPM is about 60K. I believe so long's you do not over due the max rpm and you do not over heat your motor, you should be okay. But running outside of the 30-35K will be more for bashing, and most likely to fast for racing. Also, I have notice when running out side or faster than that range, you are subjecting your tires to un-mount off of your wheels. so be careful...
^^
Why not use motor brakes, they're just as powerful or more powerful than mechanical brakes?
Putting the front/rear brake bias ability aside, mechanical brakes are easier on the motor and ESC resulting in less heat. Subsequently, they are easier on the drivetrain as well. Mechanical brakes are just as reliable and some say more predictable than motor braking. Adding the front/rear bias back in and you have a cool operating system that can out-handle motor brakes alone.
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Why not use motor brakes, they're just as powerful or more powerful than mechanical brakes?
Putting the front/rear brake bias ability aside, mechanical brakes are easier on the motor and ESC resulting in less heat. Subsequently, they are easier on the drivetrain as well. Mechanical brakes are just as reliable and some say more predictable than motor braking. Adding the front/rear bias back in and you have a cool operating system that can out-handle motor brakes alone.
+1 What he said
__________________
Losi 8 2.0 Buggy + 1.5 Truggy & Associated SC8
Tekno RC Conversion Kits on all
MMM ESC
LEKTRON "square can" brushless motors
Fully Max - Polyquest - Neu - Flight Power LiPo's
Originally Posted by jonas123
Hello ,
i have a question
i have a mugen mbx6 with a tekno rc kit
what karo can i use ?
Thx
What's a karo?
Quote:
Originally Posted by doctorweb
^^
Why not use motor brakes, they're just as powerful or more powerful than mechanical brakes?
Putting the front/rear brake bias ability aside, mechanical brakes are easier on the motor and ESC resulting in less heat. Subsequently, they are easier on the drivetrain as well. Mechanical brakes are just as reliable and some say more predictable than motor braking. Adding the front/rear bias back in and you have a cool operating system that can out-handle motor brakes alone.
Ok guys here is one for ya. I have the Techno rc mbx6 coversion with the castle system in it with a thunder power 5000mah 30c lipo and 2 servos. I started to get it to work well today as far as setup. It is heavy and doesnt rotate as well as the nitro car but im getting it there. The problem I have is I broke 3 rear axle shafts in half. Not from wrecking either. Just snapped in half. Now these are not new shafts they were ones that were ran when my car was a nitro car and had no problems. I did have a brand new one once due this and I figured it was just a faulty one. But now 3!? In my opinion I think the car is to heavy for the stock mbx6 drivetrain. At least the axle shafts. The car is at least 2 to 3 pounds hevier then my nitro car. So if anyone has had issues like this please post them or TecnoRc please give me your thoughts. I will sell this car if this keeps happening. Thanks
Clutch tool
I just started using the clutch and was wondering how the heck to hold the clutch to remove the bell and now I know!
^^
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