My kit is officially on it's way...Any hints tricks or tips for the 8b setup?As always thanks for the great feedback from this thread..
I just finished my RC8B w/ Tekno conv and been running it the past two days in practice. The box stock setup in the manual actually works really well, only thing I've changed so far is the rear springs.
I would also suggest you download the last couple Maifield race setups from www.rc10.com and look those over as well.
This actually sounds like a slipped rotor in the motor (magnets slipping off the shaft). Try a different motor if you have one, because the clutch should stay consistent for a very long time. The fact that you cleaned everything and replaced some parts tells me the problem is probably somewhere else as we rarely have clutch issues. However, it's the first thing that people suspect when something goes wrong . Please let us know what you find out, if it still slips with a different motor I'd be interested in taking a further look at your setup. Thanks.
Quote:
ambo wrote - HH: The magnet on the shaft is slipping....better have a look at it before you totally destroy your motor....
Well I put my Neu/Castle 2200kv in my Tekno 8ight E and took it out to Rev last night (which btw has the new track layout they'll be using for the ROAR event) and it was hooked the **** up. The clutch that is! I was actually struggling to find the right tires cause this buggy had so much punch. So you guys were on the money with your diagnosis that the rotor was slipping, which is new info for me. I'm guessing the magnets must be linked together around the shaft as it seems the rotor is slipping/spinning but not detaching completely.
As always.. Thank you for the timely assistance, it is appreciated.
HH
__________________
HB Ve8 - on the workbench - Tekin RX8 1900kv
OFNA Hyper 9e - MMM 2200kv 4S 5000mAh ROAR
Losi 8ight E 2.0 - Tekno MM 1700kv 5S 5000mAh
B44 - Novak GTB 6.5 Velociti Reedy 2S 5100mAh
Slash - Velineon 3.5 BL 2S Reedy 5000mAh
Question. Last weekend, Dan was saying my transponder signal was weak. I remember someone saying the transponder has to be face up (transponder light facing the sky). I had my transponder in the tekno box upside down (light facing the ground). Could this be the reason for a weak signal? I reversed them now, but curious could that have been the problem.
thx
__________________
* Mugen MBX6T -- TEKNO Conversion -- Tekin 1700kv System on 5S
* Losi E-8ight-B 1.8 -- TEKNO Conversion -- Tekin 1900kv System on 5S
* Mugen EMBX5 Prospec -- Castle Creation MMM 2200kv System on 4S
* Xray M18 -- Castle something on 2S
* EMBX6 in HD action and E-8ight-T 2.0 in HD action: just YOUTUBE(teeforb)
I have put PT upside down & sideways at the same track you run at & the only time I had a poor hit was a week or 2 before my reciever died & then the T/B servo(gas car) died the next week.Turns out the servo was pulling HUGE current & killed the reciever.I found this by turning the wheels with the transmitter & watching the transponder light go dim. The instructions for the TP do say to mount with the light up & not over alum though.
I've had only a couple issues with transponders. A couple times at ARC, the loop wouldn't pick up a lap here or there, but I've never had it not pick up for a whole race unless it got unplugged somehow. It may be that your servo is pulling a big load from the ESC BEC. Make sure your EPA's are set good on the steering servo so you're not pulling big amps every corner. Other than that, I've had the PT up front, on the battery, under the tray, sideways, upside down, etc. Never had any problems except for a couple laps as stated above.
Can you guys help me on diff setups for rc8b. I'm running 5 all the way around right now. I don't like the way the buggy is handling right now. Thanks for the help.
Well I put my Neu/Castle 2200kv in my Tekno 8ight E and took it out to Rev last night (which btw has the new track layout they'll be using for the ROAR event) and it was hooked the **** up. The clutch that is! I was actually struggling to find the right tires cause this buggy had so much punch. So you guys were on the money with your diagnosis that the rotor was slipping, which is new info for me. I'm guessing the magnets must be linked together around the shaft as it seems the rotor is slipping/spinning but not detaching completely.
As always.. Thank you for the timely assistance, it is appreciated.
HH
Hi, sounds like you have never seen the rotor, here you go.
Here is an Tekin rotor that separated from the shaft.
Here is the magnet on the shaft, most rotors are wrapped in kevlar to keep them from coming apart.
Here is a rotor from a Neu 1515 motor
And here is a shot of the inside of a Neu motor showing the windings. And some pretty dirty front bearings.
The larger one is in the rear because of the layout on the chassis.
Yeah I had a problem with it rubbing slightly on my 8ightB so I chucked it in a drill and ground it down until it fit. But the the newer black discs fit with no problem (they are the small size and use the same size front and back). My truggy was fine, because it uses a bigger spur so there was more clearance.
Yeah I had a problem with it rubbing slightly on my 8ightB so I chucked it in a drill and ground it down until it fit. But the the newer black discs fit with no problem (they are the small size and use the same size front and back). My truggy was fine, because it uses a bigger spur so there was more clearance.
I have the 50T spur gear I just have not installed. I went from a 1.0 nitro to 2.0 electric. My plan is to grind the rear brake down until it fits. I just might put the bigger spur on that way I will not have to do that every time I change the brakes.
One other option is to put another small disc in the back. I'd recommend the 48t spur over the 50t since the 48 won't stick out beyond the chassis bottom like the 50 does. Just a few less rocks and pebbles. There's no problem with the 50, just the 48 may be a bit better in that regard.
One other option is to put another small disc in the back. I'd recommend the 48t spur over the 50t since the 48 won't stick out beyond the chassis bottom like the 50 does. Just a few less rocks and pebbles. There's no problem with the 50, just the 48 may be a bit better in that regard.
. Please let us know what you find out, if it still slips with a different motor I'd be interested in taking a further look at your setup. Thanks.
I was actually struggling to find the right tires cause this buggy had so much punch. So you guys were on the money with your diagnosis that the rotor was slipping, which is new info for me. I'm guessing the magnets must be linked together around the shaft as it seems the rotor is slipping/spinning but not detaching completely.
Similar Threads