For those of you who are running a MMM how did you mount it? The switch? Any pictures??
The MMM will fit on the radio tray as intended. The switch is a little wide but it fits in the intended area on the radio tray. Sorry, I don't have pics. We have 2 of our setups with the MMM in different vehicles and both are sitting on the radio tray as described.
That set up will not work for me. If you look closely the battery tray in the photos was shortened.
Hey chuck just cut off the switch and hook the 2 wires together and put a little piece of shrink wrap over them.Then when you plug your battery in it will just turn on. I ran a switch for a while until i lost a race because the damn switch turned off.You always think the worst until you figure out its just the switch and then the race is half over.
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TEKNO PERFORMANCE PARTS
I have a quick question for the tekno guys. I am ready to order the conversion for the rc8 and Im not sure which motor mount to get(36mm or 44mm)? I am guessing that different motor have different diameters. I plan on either getting the 1512 2.5d/f or one of the medussas(still not sure which one is reccommended for the buggies). Thanks for any help.
I have a quick question for the tekno guys. I am ready to order the conversion for the rc8 and Im not sure which motor mount to get(36mm or 44mm)? I am guessing that different motor have different diameters. I plan on either getting the 1512 2.5d/f or one of the medussas(still not sure which one is reccommended for the buggies). Thanks for any help.
Hi,
You are correct, different motors have different diameters. The Neu finned cans are 44mm, the Neu smooth cans are 40mm, and the Medusa's and Feigao's are 36mm. There are a couple other brands that are not one of those three but in between, in those cases you just go to the larger case.
If you get the 1512 2.5D/F you'll need the 44mm. If you get the 1512 2.5D/S you'll need the 40mm. And if you get any of the Medusa's you'll need the 36mm. If you're ordering from Impakt RC / Tekno RC and wish to go with the 40mm mount for the smooth can just put that in the comments section and it'll be swapped out.
As for what Medusa to run that'll depend on your battery. I'm guessing you're running 4S because you're looking at the 1512 2.5D. If that's the case than I'd suggest either the 50mm 2200kv or the 60mm 2000kv. If you go with the 2000kv you may want to pick up another clutch bell one tooth larger than what's included to get a little more top end out of that motor. Also, you may want to consider the 1509 1.5Y. It's a great motor to race with in a buggy, lot's of top end and plenty of torque. It's a 2400kv motor rated for 65 amps. And in case you missed it, here's a video of a qualifier of me running a 50mm 2200kv Medusa in my Tekno Losi 8ight conversion. I've also run the 2.5D with similar results, it has a little more squirt on the bottom end but I had to gear up one tooth on the bell to get the top end back.
Hope all that helps! Good luck and let us know what you decide.
Yup, either that one (which is what is in the video) or this one (which is out of stock). I like my Medusa a lot, if you use the clutch setup it will run great. The only thing I recommend is to run a bead of CA around the seam of the rear endbell to prevent it from ever popping off. It's a tight fit stock, but I like the extra security.
We're working on it now. It's a great looking truck. Many little improvements since the RC8 buggy. No word on release date, but it will likely be after the SC8 is released. Thanks.
One track where I run allows the use of ROAR appoved LiPos only. I made the following battery tray for my Losi 8ight:
I was thinking of trying the Tekno conversion, so I downloaded the instructions. I see you have extra braces between the center diff and the chassis and as a result, the battery tray is further away from the center diff than in my conversion. Are those braces absolutely necessary? I would have no problem making another tray for the ROAR LiPos for a car using a Tekno conversion so long as I know it can be fit in the car. But I am concerned about getting a conversion chassis and not being able to fit the batteries in it. (Yes, I could have had both standing up or both flat, but that would have jacked up the body quite a lot. One on edge next to the diff and one flat over the stone guard was the only way to fit two 2S hard-case packs in the car and have the body mounted as it is supposed to be. Plus, they needed to be angled in at the rear.)
It's a cool buggy.
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