whitty

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys, I have just used my t4 for the first time in about 2 months. It is alot slower then normal. Now i mean substatially slow. I am running a mamba 6900 combo. It used to fly past me and almost uncontrolable. Now its just extremly slow and very contralable. If i lift up the car off the ground the tires spin and the car powers up. But as soon as the car hits the ground i get no power from it or speed. I have really no clue on why it would do this. I have tightend the diff, adjusted the slipper clutch and still no speed.
Any help apreciated.
cheers
alex

BSS07

iTrader: (16)

what batteries do u have?

JeromeK99

iTrader: (3)

Check to see if your control is on the correct model setting if it has multiple memories.. and maybe reset your speed control..

Just a couple of things that don't cost anything and take a few seconds to eliminate them from the equation.

Jerome

Brandon A

iTrader: (1)

BSS07 may be on to something with the batteries. If they haven't been cycled in two months they will probably suck @$$, at least until you get them charged and discharged a few times.

whitty

iTrader: (4)

the batteries are intellects 4200 mah. i have used them in my drifter while i wasnt useing the truck so i am positive they are all good. its like as soon as i put it on the ground all the power goes im not sure. what if i connect it up to pc and do the tunning in that. and i have gone threw my contorler and is all good, its a futaba 2pl

schmelme

iTrader: (13)

Odds are your running on 5 or maybe 4 of your 6cell pack. Recycle those 4200's they are really good for loosing cells. Happens all the time.

B-FAST R/C

iTrader: (9)

Did you check your Castle Link software cutoff setting? If the cutoff is set too high for your battery type it will restrict power to the motor.

BSS07

iTrader: (16)

connect your mamba to the computer and reset all the settings to default.

Tubaboy

iTrader: (9)

Take out your diff and make sure it is still ok as well. One time I saw a guy break a diff by separating the gears from the center disc. Just throwing out the random thing for ya. Also make sure the T-Nut isn't stripped out as you may think you're tightening your diff, but really it's just spinning.

Cya,
Paul

scott54

iTrader: (5)

Tighten your trigger finger!




But seriously, I'm trying to think of what would cause this.... or would make it look like this. Check to see if one of your rollpins may have snapped on your axel. It'll sit there and rev and move slow... kind of like the way you described it. Especially with you saying that it runs normal when you hold it up.

whitty

iTrader: (4)

I have plugged the mamba into pc and set all to default. Cycled my batteries. Rebuilt my diff but even when it is tight both wheels still spin in oposite directions. I tried to recalibrate but no luck, i have my finger on throttle and turn on. it goes dela dit, then pauses then goes dela dit 4 times, then the red led comes on and just starts flashing and beeping. Im not to sure what you mean by rollpin (scott45) and i just noticed when the car come under some sort of pressure like a steepish hill, or some long grass or even driving over my foot it shutters and stuff. So i really got no clue.

shurcooL

By "rollpin", I think he means the small pin that goes at the end of your axis and makes the wheel turn. Without it (of it it's broken), all the power transfered to that wheel will be wasted and not make the wheel turn.

Here's a picture of one, just in case my description wasn't clear enough. Make sure it's there, not broken, and that the wheel is 'hooked up' to it. By hooked up, I mean it doesn't spin freely on the axis, but rather *together* with the axis it's on.

Picture here

As far as the most common electrical source, I'd say check your Lipo cut off and make sure it's set to something like 4V or 5V or even off, if you're using 6-cell NiMH. If it's set to 6-7v, most likely that's where your problem is.

nutz4rcyktw

iTrader: (67)

Also make certain you haven't spun the center out of one of the rear wheels. The roll pin could be there but if the hub on the wheel has spun, the pin will slip around inside the rear of the wheel and give you issues.

crazyjr

All the advice is good here, but How are the temps on the motor? If it gets too hot the motor can Demagnetize and lose power. What gearing are you running? The 6900 is usually used for touring cars over stadium trucks, Not saying it couldn't run in a truck, Just saying the gearing is more sensitive

OG RC 10T

iTrader: (41)

I had the roll pin issue last race. The rear lock nut was worn and loosened up, the rim came off the pin just enough to strip out the slot on the back of the rim.

What your describing as an issue, is how my buggy was acting.

That may not be your problem, but it sounded familar.