B4 Racer1

iTrader: (2)

if your car powers up on two wheels then maybe there could be something wrong with the front of your car...

whitty

iTrader: (4)

gearing is 87/15. cut off is set to nothing, roll pins are all there as i just changed my wheels, but last set of wheels i had the pin slot on the rim got chewed out. motor temps have been relatively good, but i might be able to try a friends motor on it, so would going to the 5700 be a bit more sensible?? can you remagnatize or any way of telling by looking in the motor to tell if magnets are shot?

DARKWAV

How is the motor connected to the ESC? Hard-wired or through the bullet plugs that came with the system? Are they the older style barrel spring bullet plugs or are they CC Bullets (male connector is a solid piece with a split down the center)? The older barrel spring connector can fail in a short period of time. I understand Castle has now switched over to the better CC Bullets, but there still could be a lot of stock still out there that uses the older connectors. If you have the barrel spring plugs either change the male plugs to 4mm CC Bullets (don't need to change the female end) or just cut the connectors out and solder the connection.

whitty

iTrader: (4)

the way you describle them it is the older barrel ones. but i dont see how this would effect it, as it goes flat chatt off the ground and spins normal but as soon as hits the ground power dropps. as soon as it comes againts the smallist obstacle in shutters, and even with the diff tight if i hand spin the wheels (rear) they both go different directions. should this be happening with a tightish diff, could the diff be the reason for me loosing all of my power as soon as the motor comes under load.

DARKWAV

Because the connection is bad (assuming that is the case) you are only getting enough current to the motor to spin the wheels under very low-load conditions. If one of the barrel springs spins freely around on the male plug that would likely be the bad connector. Also look to see if there are any very small pinpoint size black dots on the connector. This would idicate where there has been some arcing, also another sign of a bad connector.

Anyway since those connectors you have are known potential problem areas you wouldn't be wasting your time removing or replacing them.

Chimer

iTrader: (26)

Sounds like your diff is messed up, not assembled correctly, or not adjusted correctly so pull it out and make sure it is assembled and adjusted correctly according to the instructions. Make sure your slipper is adjusted correctly, if it's too loose you won't be going any where fast. Check your CVD's to see if they are assembled good and tight or if the pins are loose.
The connectors on your motor are crap so please do yourself a favor and solder the wires directly to the motor or get good connectors.
If you can use a friends ESC and motor combo that you know works properly do a process of elimination with the electronics.
Make sure the gear mesh is correct between the pinion and spur.
Also check the settings on your radio like the Throttle EXP, etc.
I don't know what is wrong with it if you can't get it fixed that way.
Best of luck!

whitty

iTrader: (4)

i shall rebuild the diff, i guess i could also put the motor in my other car and see how it goes. if the diff is loose will i loose all speed. have checked radio equipment, and checked my cvds and all good but have noticed one is slightly bent. I will replace the barrel ones for some cc bullet type connectors, does it matter if they arent bullet connectors??? found the cc bullet connectors what size do u reccomend 4,5 or 6.5

Snap

iTrader: (5)

Try reversing the TH on your controller and recallibrate. Set your throttle trim to 100%. This should fix the calibration problem. It may also fix the power/speed problem.

whitty

iTrader: (4)

i rebuilt diff and recalibrated, and still no luck, if i ge some time after school tomorrow i will put the 6900 combo in my ta05 and see what sort of speed i get out of it. i am pretty sure that its the motor cuz it makes some weird noises. and sometime the dela dit (turn on noises) are alot quieter than other times.

crazyjr

There is no way to know about the rotor, unless you take it apart, That will void any warranty though. The 3.5mm plugs that castle uses could be causing problems, i hard wire mine, or use 5.5mm plugs. 200* and above will demag the motor, If it has gotten there, its possible its happened. I would suggest trying a different motor to see what happens, if that fixes it, then the motor is possibly bad. If not, try different plugs. Another thing, If you ever messed with the settings, try zeroing everything on the transmitter, then reprogram to reciever and see if that helps.

Chimer

iTrader: (26)

I really don't know what type of connector would be best. The thing to do is eliminate the connectors and wire directly to the motor. Use a connector with the least amount of resistance.

sport10

Try a new battery. Just because they cycled right does not mean it will not drop a cell under load. Most of the time I have had this happen it was from the batteries. The IB 4200 cells are prone to going bad. I had a new IB4200WC pack only last 15 runs and I had to throw it away. And I maintain my batteries well.

Also, when testing the diff action both wheels should be turning opposite directions if you are holding the spur. This is correct.

patbob

If it's a slipping drive train or stripped drive train gear thing, when you blip the throttle, you'll hear the motor spin up but the car won't go faster. If its really bad, you might be able to hold it in place and get the motor to spin without pulling away from you too hard. A misadusted slipper clutch will accomplish the same thing.

However, after reading the thread, it really sounds like a motor/voltage thing, or more specifically, a current limiting sort of thing. Could the shuddering you describe be motor cogging? With no load, the motor doesn't need much current to spin fast. With load, it needs a lot more current, and if it can't get it I think the BL motors will cog. Oxidation or corrosion on connectors can act as a current limit, so disconnect and inspect them all -- even if you don't see anything bad, just doing that might (temporarily) break the layer and allow different performance (and then you'll know for certain where the (one?) problem is). It could cause multiple problems too -- a sag of voltage into the ESC might cause the BEC output to sag and the receiver to get flaky as well.

Insulating oxidation layers are why high end AV connectors for your home theater are gold plated -- not only does it look cool, gold doesn't oxidize. Without them, you have to disconnect and reconnect the connectors every few years.