XX-4 WED help me set up my new car..
06-04-2008, 09:25 PM
#16
Tech Regular
the 0* front was for the street weapon (what spun off the xx4). don't run it. You should have a set of 2* blocks for the rear. That is - 2* squat and 3* toe. I would suggest running those.
also, if you can find them or have the utilities to make them, a front shock tower brace will definitely help you out if you ever decide to roll this car.
also, if you can find them or have the utilities to make them, a front shock tower brace will definitely help you out if you ever decide to roll this car.
06-04-2008, 09:38 PM
#17
So as I was typing this Dan told you exactly what you need but I'll leave my original post here so you know all the options.......You will want the 10* white front bulkhead. The 0* makes the car unstable, even the old Trinity 5* doesn't feel right in the car so stick with the 10*. As for the rear end there are a couple of options. The standard worlds edition runs the 3* toe in pivot blocks (they are just the split version of the old xx-CR or current XXX-CR blocks) with *2 of ant squat. There are really two standard ways to go at this point. The 3* pivot blocks either come with 2* of anti squat built in or 0*. I run the old Trinity 2* anti squat XX-CR pivot block cut for my car. Some people prefer the 0* and add .040 in shims to the front of the block to get 2* degrees of anti squat. The concept is to move the block higher, raising the inner pivot point of the arm. Another even more extreme concept is to take pivot block and flip it upside down (you will need to run the right on the left and the left on the right at that point to keep the toe in). This moves the arms pivot point even higher. The higher this pivot point the more it allows the rear end to roll, helping steering. Some feel it also allows the car to ride through bumps better (as it does not let the arms "catch" on ruts) but it affects the way the car jumps and can make it unstable out of turns. In the end if you can get the actual XX-4 WE pivot blocks that is easiest but you can also just cut the connect material between a XXX-CR rear pivot block and that will work identically (this is what I actually do as space in my pit box is tight. I keep 2 XXX-CR pivot blocks around and if I need to cut one down I do and if not I have a good unmolested one for my CR, either way I am covered). Hope this helps. Let me know if I confused you or if you need more info.
06-04-2008, 10:51 PM
#18
Tech Regular
I'll tag team some more with strong bad -
raising the pivot actually seemed to help my car in acceleration as well as corner entry (particularly high-speed) but it made the car really unstable under braking and seemed to land harsher. It also didn't seem to have that natural xx4 "float" off jumps. If your track is med-high bite with not many/big jumps it might be worth the shot. I didn't notice a big difference in bumps. And I wouldn't really recommend this in many situations. I can think of a few tracks off hand that this would be good, but in general stick to the lower pivot.
Actually, there are even more pivot options. The xxx pivot uses the same bolt-pattern as the cr/xx4 pivots and if you cut the bracing out of them they mount up fine as well. They are a narrower pivot and if you want to use cr arms you have to space them accordingly. This pivot will give you more forward bite and a little less side bite. You have to change the setup some, but in the end I found I could push the car a little harder...but i had to in order to keep the same laptimes as the standard xx4 pivot.
also word of warning to aluminum pivot uses: these can crack the chassis. If you run on hardpacked tracks with good sized jumps I cannot recommend using these.
As a wrap-up I would say definitely stick with the 10* white pivot up front and for the rear at the very least start with the stock xx4 pivot and you have the options Strong Bad and i have given you to work with from there.
have fun, awesome car
raising the pivot actually seemed to help my car in acceleration as well as corner entry (particularly high-speed) but it made the car really unstable under braking and seemed to land harsher. It also didn't seem to have that natural xx4 "float" off jumps. If your track is med-high bite with not many/big jumps it might be worth the shot. I didn't notice a big difference in bumps. And I wouldn't really recommend this in many situations. I can think of a few tracks off hand that this would be good, but in general stick to the lower pivot.
Actually, there are even more pivot options. The xxx pivot uses the same bolt-pattern as the cr/xx4 pivots and if you cut the bracing out of them they mount up fine as well. They are a narrower pivot and if you want to use cr arms you have to space them accordingly. This pivot will give you more forward bite and a little less side bite. You have to change the setup some, but in the end I found I could push the car a little harder...but i had to in order to keep the same laptimes as the standard xx4 pivot.
also word of warning to aluminum pivot uses: these can crack the chassis. If you run on hardpacked tracks with good sized jumps I cannot recommend using these.
As a wrap-up I would say definitely stick with the 10* white pivot up front and for the rear at the very least start with the stock xx4 pivot and you have the options Strong Bad and i have given you to work with from there.
have fun, awesome car
06-05-2008, 04:01 AM
#19
Thanks for covering the standard XXX option Dan...I totally forgot about it. I think when I tried it on my old X-5 I used the standard XXX/ XXX-BK rear hubs and that spaced it just like a first gen XXX/ BK1. About the rear pivots blocks; in my 10 years of running the car I have never broke the rear of the chassis running the cut Trinity pivots....(totally joking here) thanks now you made me all nervous about running them......
In conclusion to this all, I really recommend setting the car up with the standard kit rear end, 10* front bulkhead and go from there.
In conclusion to this all, I really recommend setting the car up with the standard kit rear end, 10* front bulkhead and go from there.
06-05-2008, 05:24 AM
#20
07-01-2008, 07:51 PM
#22
I love you guy's...
Everthing you said has worked so well! I use the Jessy Roberts set-up with the WE 3*rear pivot. .055 sway bar. Our track is a 1/8 track. works great! The only thing now is the shock towers blow-out on the rear often! I use the Penguin carbon brace but still manage to break them with a good cartweel. Think I might double them up with some cut stock xx-4 units. Crashback arms in the front, cr arms in rear!
Everthing you said has worked so well! I use the Jessy Roberts set-up with the WE 3*rear pivot. .055 sway bar. Our track is a 1/8 track. works great! The only thing now is the shock towers blow-out on the rear often! I use the Penguin carbon brace but still manage to break them with a good cartweel. Think I might double them up with some cut stock xx-4 units. Crashback arms in the front, cr arms in rear!
07-02-2008, 06:57 PM
#23
Suspended
iTrader: (7)
The new Graphite Rear Shock Towers break easy. The new Losi Graphite doesn't flow into the mold as well so it gets an air bubble at the base of the tower (below the wing mounts). The thing that I have found to fix the problem is to run an old Graphite tower or a plastic one (what I have on my car), and take the Penguin R/C brace that goes on the front side of the tower and use it on both sides of the tower. If you have any other ?'s send them this way I know all there is to know about this car (I'm not trying to sound cocky I've just run this car for the better part on 9 years).
07-02-2008, 07:14 PM
#24
xxx, no looking back once i switched to the b44. i have it on rails right now. i hope losi looks into putting out a new 4wd buggy. glen you gonna make it to the jconcepts supercup at coral springs?
07-03-2008, 09:46 AM
#25
The new Graphite Rear Shock Towers break easy. The new Losi Graphite doesn't flow into the mold as well so it gets an air bubble at the base of the tower (below the wing mounts). The thing that I have found to fix the problem is to run an old Graphite tower or a plastic one (what I have on my car), and take the Penguin R/C brace that goes on the front side of the tower and use it on both sides of the tower. If you have any other ?'s send them this way I know all there is to know about this car (I'm not trying to sound cocky I've just run this car for the better part on 9 years).
Penguin brace?
How do I score one or two, if it is needed on front or back.
Never heard of it. Got any pix?
This is the only hang up on my XX4 at the moment.
07-03-2008, 10:11 AM
#26
http://www.penguinrc.com/products/losi/p4700.html
The thin graphite is deceiving...they're very stiff. No problems with mine yet. The site doesn't show it, but there's a smaller brace at the rear of the tower also.
The thin graphite is deceiving...they're very stiff. No problems with mine yet. The site doesn't show it, but there's a smaller brace at the rear of the tower also.
07-03-2008, 10:34 AM
#28
Haven't taken any pics of the car yet, but the brace basically follows the shape of the flat part of the rear of the tower from the top wing mount bolts down to the part of the tower that sits on top of the gearbox.
Last edited by SMcpot; 07-03-2008 at 03:46 PM.
07-03-2008, 01:42 PM
#29
Got it, thanks.
Since we last posted, I've already made some out of some tuff Delrin plastic.
A bit thicker but it aint goin nowhere! I put them on front and back of the rear tower. BEEFY.
Actually bolted it to a broken shock tower since I didn't have a new one and it is dialed.
Gonna be the hot ticket.
Now to make the fronts.
Now need RPM to make some indestructable front arms.
I have tested the Crash Back arms and they didn't hold up. Sure any arm is gonna break in a gnarly enuff biff but this wasn't that bad and at about $30 bucks after shipping, I didn't get another set.
Are these being distributed anywhere in the U.S.? Anyone? Beuller?
Since we last posted, I've already made some out of some tuff Delrin plastic.
A bit thicker but it aint goin nowhere! I put them on front and back of the rear tower. BEEFY.
Actually bolted it to a broken shock tower since I didn't have a new one and it is dialed.
Gonna be the hot ticket.
Now to make the fronts.
Now need RPM to make some indestructable front arms.
I have tested the Crash Back arms and they didn't hold up. Sure any arm is gonna break in a gnarly enuff biff but this wasn't that bad and at about $30 bucks after shipping, I didn't get another set.
Are these being distributed anywhere in the U.S.? Anyone? Beuller?
07-03-2008, 05:13 PM
#30
So when I do get my XX-4 diled in you'll be sorry! Now go sell some Batt. at unbeleveable low prices.... P.S. Yes I'll be there and you'll see my Losi butt in your face!