Zerodefect

Ok, lets see if I've learned anything while I've been lurking here. I'm planning to get back into electric racing after being away for 7 years. I think I'll build an Associated rc10-B44 4wd buggy. I've got the tools and radio. Everything else hasn't been bought yet. I'm building it to race and don't want to cut any corners with slow parts.

I'm curious what you guys think/recommend.

Chassis: B44

Motor/esc: Mamba Max 6900 ( ok the 5700 is a better choice right? I might get the 4900 later though for days when or track is slippery. Usually its pretty grippy. The track is big for 1/10th scale but kinda small for 1/8th scale nitro buggies. 1/8th scale truggies are slow around the track cause its too small for them. To give an idea of the tracks size the 1/10th scale 4wd is only a few seconds slower than 1/8 nitro buggy per lap. Nitros and electric run on different days.) Is 6900 too much motor? If you could pick 2 motors one being the 4900 what would the other be? I really think that the faster motors will be useless on one of our slippery days. But if I have a primary motorand a spare I would like one to have excessive power and the other to be more for run time & slippery track. 4900 and 5700 are so close It might not be that big of a change to warrant chaning between the two. (I'll bet that 4900 and 7700 would be: one is too slow the other is too fast LOL!) Our track changes that much! I do not want to be short on power! I'm preety good about controlling the car sliding. Getting onto the back straight on or track in a mild oversteer seems the fastest approach if u can do it without losing forward momentum. I do not want lack of power before our big jumps.

Battery: Max Amps 6000 saddle pack, hard shrink, deans connector. (Most of the drivers I've seen racing Lipos permanantly mount thier batteries in their cars and charge them between runs. They never switch batteries! Or should I get 2 4400 batteries. I'd run one 4400 for practice. Then the other for qualifying while the first charges. Then use the recharged battery in the main.) The 6000 deos produce better amps for the motor though. I could easilly run the 6000 without recharging if I skip practice. But i'll probally just top it off after each run. Should have enough time to charge the battery between runs. Will the MM6900 be hard on the little 4400 lipos? Plus the 4400s are nice and light. That'll help in our tight infield. I haven't decided between these two yet.

Radio: Airtronics M8 with Novak Switch module (allready have this)

Reciever: Novak extra (allready have this)

Servo: Airtronics standard or AE standard servo. (I have both sitting on the shelf as leftovers. I'd like to try them and then invest in an Airtroncs Rockcrusher if I need to. Do you this servo. Not the 200 once/in one but the slightly faster version.

Charger:Hyperion EOS0606i AC/DC Balance Charger. I've no reason to avoid the higher model Hyperion chargers but I can't think of a real good reason to go with the fancier models either. Do you see any real benifit to the other models as far as car racing goes?

Tires: Holeshot, Inside job, or Double dees? I'm leaning towards the holeshots and trimming the center spikes to clean out better.


So what do guys think? Sweet kit, or should I change some things?

party_wagon

iTrader: (29)

motor//esc:sidewinder w/ 5700
(too much power & its cheap). Anything more is useless.

Servo: any servo w/ 100oz. torque & a sub .13 resp. time on 4.8 volts. A standard servo will probly be broken by the end of race day.

tires: just run what ever the other guys at your track run

batteriesair of 4400s
You should get over 15 minutes of run time out of each charge so you can nock out 35 minutes of practice time & the 1st pack you ran will already be 1half of the way back to charged when you finish running your other pack.

Jason Pelletier

iTrader: (33)

go novak or lrp.... Orion/peak/novak 7.5

Servo, Jr9000s or jr9100s these are dialed !! .06 servo speed.

OG RC 10T

iTrader: (41)

If you are interested I have a new, still in the orgional package, max amps 6000 lipo saddle pack, with the deans plug and the hard case. I paid $135 from Max Amps.

I have 2 of them. I get 45 minute run times at the track with a 7.5 bl, and its in the car permenately. The second I have as a back up and with the long run times I dont need the second one.

PM me if your interested.

salteen

iTrader: (89)

you get an F+ for no pictures

ray3619

putting on my flame retardet clothing , novak or lrp for racing , mamba stuff is for bashing , max amps is the cheap way to go , get hard case track power lipos , no standard servos , ray

Lowrance

iTrader: (30)

B44
Novak GTB/6.5
Trak Power 4900mah saddle lipo
Ace DS1313 servo

...thats gonna be my combo when the funds come around

party_wagon

iTrader: (29)

The mamba systems are great for racing. They have a proven track record too. If your track lets you run them then they are a great way to save $100. If you want to waste your $100 then you can. However I would rather save my money to buy things I actually need.

Jason Pelletier

iTrader: (33)

I agree 100% Don't flame.

How about spending alittle more on something as important as you brushless esc and get the best ones. It is so smooth !!!!!! I have 3 spheres ....Love them .... no regrets.

You spend less you getting less, sure that thing has a usb computer thing but thats a great way to put yourself behind if you don't know what your doing and those motors arent roar legal.

I know someone who was running a mamba.. He said it sucked for racing.

Thugs Bunny

iTrader: (5)

I've not used the Mamba max stuff but wasn't happy with the mini system. No complaints at all about my Novak stuff. Your FM gear will be okay to start but believe me go spektrum as soon as you can. You not only no longer have to deal with crystals, you get rid of most glitching issues as well.

As far as servos go, the single best piece of build advice I offer is go KO. KO Propo have bullet proof servos that will last forever. They are designed so that the weak link is a single gear in the case. If you max out the drivetrain on the servo, as you inevitably will, the same gear always fails. The smart part is that the gear is the same across most servos, therefore they are plentiful and cheap 3 for $5. This is much better than having to buy a complete gear set for your servo, if you can even get it, or swapping out servos and having to re-setup your car/radio. I switched to all KO a little while ago after trying literally every brand on the market over a 20yr+ period, and I'll never go back. They are not cheap at $100 per servo, but you can swap them to another car at the end of the season and they will give consistent, solid, fast and powerful performance for years. Oh and no I'm not sponsored in any way by KO or anyone related to KO or by KO's rich uncle.

Zerodefect

Cool, thanks for the replies.

Everyone agrees that I need a better servo so thats cool. I'll add that to my list. Ko propo or Airtronics. I'm going to look at the Ko, thanks for the tip. I've never ever had trouble with Airtronics so its hard to pry me away from thier stuff.

I'm going to hang on to the M8 as long as I can. Since I have the switch module and xxtra rx, I can just set it to an oddball frequency nobody at our track ever has and not worry about crystals. I've never seen anyone at my track run channel 88 so I leave it there for check in. By the time the M11 gets replaced by the MXX, I'll probally be in the market for a radio. Still lots of M8's at my track. I've never glitched yet!

Suprized about the anti Mamba guys. There is a guy running an undergeared MM 7700 in a b4 buggy 2wd and its plenty smooth. Never gets hot. The thing I like about them is their durability and replacement cost ($50 to replace/repair a burnt speed control) I'm hard on equipment. ( I still seal my reciever in a balloon wrap it in foam and zip tie it to a piece of lexan then shoe glue the lexan down to the chassis, way over kill. I balloon my servos to.)

I'll look into the LRP and Novak units some more. I don't mind the price difference. The MM deos seem to work, so unless I find something compelling I'll stick to the MM5700.

I saw alot of Proline holeshots at the track today so I'll probaly stick to those.

party_wagon

iTrader: (29)

Well, I guess if you know what your doing you can purchase the cheaper & more programable esc//motor combo. Not to mention that they are super smooth w/ the new update to them.

Zerodefect

I've seen the Mambas do fine at my track. I was more concerned about what size motor to run then what brand to run. I'm sure LRP and Novak have decent stuff, I've run brushed novak stuff before and did well with it.

When Novak started putting goofy capaciters rolling around thats when I started to shy away from them. Don't need more components that are hard to mount. Castle just puts theres on top of the esc where it belongs. No fans on MM either. I could allways put a fan on the esc or motor if needed. LRP has a nice fan/heatsink combo.

I see either the smallest 4900 or the fastest 7700, but nothing in between. When I mentioned it the drivers, they didn't know/care what difference there is between the motors. They went with the 4900 for drivability and some went with the 7700 simply cause it was the fastest. Both get down the track fine.

The 7700 works real well in 2wd buggies. But theyre lighter than my b44, and have less driveline drag.

I'll try the MM for now. We'll see how it goes. They have the reputation for the most durability right now. The castle link seems really simple to tune, that won't be a problem.

I see servos that are around 120 onces/in torgue with a .06 transite time! That'll work. I think I'll try my first digital servo at the same time. Thanks for the ideas on servos.

I'll second the idea of the Trackpower batteries. I'm keeping an eye on them. They have great airplane batteries (Flightpower). But right now I've noticed thier wire posts interfere with the cars body. Eventually they'll figure it out and get those wires tucked in nice and proper.

CJ RC

iTrader: (6)

Hi all I’m in a similar situation to Zerodefect been away from racing and looking to get back into it with a b44 and race stock engine class

This is the set up I’m considering

Chassis: B44
Motor: LRP Vector X-11 Stock Spec (17.5T) or Novak SS17.5 Pro Brushless
ESC: LRP Sphere Competition (should I get TC Spec?)
Battery: Trakpower saddle packs (with Re-designed B44 Lipo braces)
Servo: JR Z9100S Digital Ultra Hi-Speed Surface Servo
Receiver: Spektrum SR3100 (because I have a DX3R I use for my Baja SS)

Please give me some advice on this set up, suggest some hop ups for the Chassis, gearing to start with and some optional gearing etc

Thanks

OG RC 10T

iTrader: (41)

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