bmaglinger

iTrader: (-8)

Yep, already ordered at G-land.
I owe 439.54 to RK.

Went ahead and pawned the G-hound to a Pawn Shop.

My upgrades I already have:
Black RPM ball-cups
B44 Battery Tray w/ the thumb screws
87 tooth B4 Spur Gear
18 and 19 tooth Tamiya 48 pitch Pinon gear set.

With a B44 and 501x WE by my side I'm retired.

Now to beat Stallard is gonna be tough, but you gota do what your gota do.
It may take 2 years before I even come close, but patience pays off.

Gota beat the top-dog to succeed!
Eddie H, has put all this stuff in my head....
that it's gonna get rough trying to beat stallard because he even has trouble
sometimes, "B-mag practice your heart out and go for it!"

DavidAlford

iTrader: (32)

Isn't there a Tamiya thread?

d16dcoe45

iTrader: (1)

who are you talking to?

d16dcoe45

iTrader: (1)

As for the RPM ball cups--does RPM make metric cups? If not, I don't think they will fit properly on the Tamiya ball studs. The Rpm cups are most likely for 4-40 sae studs. Seems alot of guys are using Hot Bodies ball studs and Losi cups which are supposed to match up pretty well (size wise).

The Tamiya cups are supposed to be OK at first, they apparently only start popping off once they have been removed/installed a few times. I wouldn't worry about the cups, money would be better spent on tungsten or ceramic 3mm diff balls as the Tamiya ones are supposed to be pretty soft.

The T4 87t spur also doesn't seem like a necessity, I only am going to use one because I happen to have an extra from my T4. Get the important stuff--shock o-rings, diff balls, front arms, front shock tower.

B4james

iTrader: (13)

As far as the shock orings go, get yourself some of the Kyosho X type orings. They are a perfect fit and due to the x seal design there is more suface contact on the shaft which makes the shocks heaps smoother and they dont leak like the Tamiya ones do. I did it with mine along with the rod and guide kit option and it was the best thing I ever did to the shocks.

Also try and build the shocks in the same manner as you would an associated shock and not use the bleed screws, much better for setting rebound right.

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (94)

Don't fight it...I petitioned to get him banned for a while. I guess there's no rule against being a douche (though there should be).

rdub202

iTrader: (19)

where do i sign

sght4

.

bmaglinger

iTrader: (-8)

I'll use the B44 ball studs then.
I want my 501x *WE* to be bullet proof....

Gonna have to do it because I might be crashing some.
As I have seen the original 501x run already at Albion.

Just after I called Wes, and Rudd, they have the 501x WE already.
They have to wait for thiers to get to thier door to race the blast though.

I on the other hand need 439.54 to get mine out of layaway at GL.
I already have that covered.

d16dcoe45

iTrader: (1)

Do you think before you purchase things? If I am not mistaken the B44 uses SAE style nuts and screws just like the Jconcepts BJ4, since there happens to be alot of aluminum on the 501 that is already pre-tapped for the metric ball studs, b44 ball studs (which are 4-40 sae thread) will not thread in. (unless you want to take a 4-40 tap and risk ruining the threads just to try to fit the b44 studs)

I suppose you could use a b44 ball stud on an area where it will need a nut holding the stud on, but then you will need to use a 4-40 nut. And if you are going to have to use a 4-40 stud, why stick to the b44 ones? Might as well upgrade to Losi or Lunsford titanium, but I wouldn't bother--I would stay metric with one of the Japanese manufacturers. If you are determined to not use Tamiya ball cups, I have heard the Kyosho cups fit pretty well and also some guys are using the Yokomo Mr4bx ball studs--although I don't know if you must use Yokomo ball cups with them.

d16dcoe45

iTrader: (1)

B4James, are these "standard" Kyosho o-rings, or will they say x-ring? If I recall correctly, Traxxas has been using an x-ring style o-ring in the Stampede/rustler/Bandit for a few years now.

Concerning the low friction rod guide (tamiya optional part)--I think the WE comes with them. Does it(low friction rod guide) come with different o-rings than the standard red tamiya ones?

SQC049

iTrader: (18)

Dude, you suck. Please stop posting, nobody cares about your crap. Nobody even knows what you are talking about.

bmaglinger

iTrader: (-8)

I'll just use the kit ones until they break, then I'll upgrade to Lunsford when they do break if ever. OK.

Jason Pelletier

iTrader: (33)

Ha ha ha !111

B4james

iTrader: (13)

The Kyosho part number is ORG03XR which is the orange X type orings, they also do a clear version ORG03X but I was told this was more for the onroad cars. I am not sure on the worlds edition as far as the rod guide kit goes, I would presume they would have it.