B-44 REAR TOP CHASSIS PLATE ALWAYS BREAKING
#32
Wow, excuse me dad for wanting an explanation I could learn from rather than a 'because I said so'
#33
once you ripe the ballstud in one hole that it you will break the other one in no time, its alway the rear top plate but not the front
#36
I been thrashing and racing mine for quite a while and haven't broken the top deck but i've gone through quite a few A arms, etc.
On the B44 thread Carolinas RC has some aftermarket CF parts that claim to be thicker than stock. And in colors! Neeto.
http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idcategory=952
I'll be putting some bigger washers above and below the CF tonight after reading this.
I suck with other cars but i'm actually competetive with this!!!
On the B44 thread Carolinas RC has some aftermarket CF parts that claim to be thicker than stock. And in colors! Neeto.
http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idcategory=952
I'll be putting some bigger washers above and below the CF tonight after reading this.
I suck with other cars but i'm actually competetive with this!!!
#37
We will be investigating this failure and fix it. Sorry we had a delay and the spare parts were not readily available.
Coach
Coach
#38
is this piece different from the bj4 w.e.? i never broke it on my bj4 with a lot of hard crashes, seems like an odd spot for breakage to me....
#39
I don't think the problem is with the top deck..... LEARN TO DRIVE!!!!!!!!
#40
If you put set screws into a hole, they don't just float there. They exert pressure on the holes to hold themselves in place. That pressure to me seems like it would add more stress when the piece comes under duress. To me when the car gets put into a situation that it lands hard on one wheel the turnbuckle is putting great leverage on the ball stud and snapping the top plate from the hole outward. If the force was instead side impact closing the holes would keep the CF from collapsing.
I see it like a wedge you have stuck in a piece of wood. If you drive it in part way and then hit another area of the log with an axe, the wood generally splits straight over to the wedge.
Anyway, you can just continue to call me names if you'd like...or it might have been easier to just say you'd seen it done before and don't really know why it works. However, last time I checked, on-road cars don't do that much jumping.
#41
#42
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Listen fella. I never claimed to know how it works. Just tried to explain it using common sense. It works in other applications. I think your over estimating how much stress is built up by using set screws. Now I don't own an engineering degree, but I'm not a window-licker either. Next, I didn't call you any names. This from a guy who proudly proclaims himself a "Computer geek" in his profile. The last word is yours, my friend. I will no longer respond to your posts.
#44
This is all just too funny.Xtreme racing is making replacement parts that are WAY THICKER than stock.I got the shock towers already from carolina's rc.They did not have the upper deck in stock but Bruce at Xtreme racing in York SC has plenty of them.Each part is around 20.00.
If you break these parts there is no hope.
Anybody want to buy my stock parts? 50.00 plus shipping for 2 shock towers and A rear upper deck.
Associated dropped the ball on quality of these parts but Xtreme was right on top of it.Quit arguing and call Carolina's RC or buy direct from Bruce at Xtreme racing.
If you break these parts there is no hope.
Anybody want to buy my stock parts? 50.00 plus shipping for 2 shock towers and A rear upper deck.
Associated dropped the ball on quality of these parts but Xtreme was right on top of it.Quit arguing and call Carolina's RC or buy direct from Bruce at Xtreme racing.
#45
I might would try using a larger nut on the top of the deck to screw the ballstud in and a larger steel washer on the bottom next to the ballstud to distribute the load a little more. I run a BJ4 and have only broken lots of arms.