Originally Posted by Saint728
The reason the IB packs are cheaper because they are not match cells, like the EP packs your looking at. If you bought the IB cells matched they would be way more expensive. If they were both matched cell packs then I would go with the IB cells. Remember with matched cells you need to monitor the cells, keep them topped up and equallize them regularly.
Originally Posted by gndprx
I'm running the non-matched EP4200's from MaxAmps. They seemed to be about the best bang for the buck on a club level pack. Good voltage and good runtime, just tends to get out of balance a little quicker since they are not matched.
With a 2wd buggy and a 4300 brushless or 19T brushed, I am getting about 15 minutes of practice or about 12 min of race time at our smaller track. Larger track will likely burn through them faster.
I think they've actually moved up to the EP4600's now so the run-times will be different.
The IB's are hit or miss. If you get a good pack, just keep the charge rate in check and you should be fine. Make sure to store it with a partial charge on it or they will flatline.
Some people say go with IB other say stay away from them and they blow up. Not sure which is true and what to believe but thats besides the point.
Right now I have a bunch of crappy venom battery packs and one checkpoint racing matched cell pack.
What is the proper way you are supposed to use and care for these matched "race" battery packs?
Charge them at 6A, use them, discharge them, charge them again? I have the checkpoint 1030 charger and am looking to buy a discharger. What would be a good one? How is the Novak Smart Tray Special Editon Discharger?
How fast does that discharge a battery? 1A, 5A, 10A, 20A, 30A, 35A?
When do you cycle? HOw many cycles do you do? What do you guys do to keep your batteries in top shape and always ready to go. Thanks.