Rc10t4 Build !
Rc10t4 Build !
11-24-2007, 02:11 PM
#2
the t4 is amazing, It was my first kit and it went together flawlessly, the only thing i have trouble with is the shocks.
11-24-2007, 02:20 PM
#4
Yeah those were the 2 hardest parts but still pretty easy.
11-24-2007, 02:29 PM
#6
its a great kit, its worth it
11-24-2007, 02:34 PM
#7
Assemble the innereds with the nifty little shock tool and read the directions carefully!! When it comes time to the oil, fill the shock right to the top, SLOWLY raise the piston up and down. Fill the shock again to the top, maybe just a tiny pinch over but don't let it spill. Now put the shock top on hand tight, slowly compress the shock, it's gonna compression binde, when it does, slowly lossin the top while compressing the shock. The fluid should leak out and the piston will rise to the top, WITHOUT RELEASING THE PRESSURE, tighten up the shock top tight. As for the diff, Its harder to screw it up then do it right.
11-24-2007, 06:25 PM
#8
I have built several associated trucks and most recently the B44. Associated kits are great to build and the directions make it very easy to understand. Once you build the shocks once and the rear dif once, you will see how easy it is.
With in the last 2 months I have built a Kyosho lazer zx5 which was difficult and took me 20 hours, total. The associated b44 took me under 12 hours total, and was easy.
Buy the kit and if you have any questions just post up.
With in the last 2 months I have built a Kyosho lazer zx5 which was difficult and took me 20 hours, total. The associated b44 took me under 12 hours total, and was easy.
Buy the kit and if you have any questions just post up.
11-24-2007, 06:53 PM
#9
Well the problem I had with my shocks it that I built them the first time then ran the car, found the arms to be soaked in oil took them apart the o rings were cut,then when I tried to rebuild them everytime the parts snap in place I break an o ring, so I have no idea how to solve that problem
11-24-2007, 07:56 PM
#10
when im having trouble i make sure to green slim all parts on shock tool , then after snapping in place i re green slim the tool and insert it from the bottom to make sure everything is green slimed on the inside , if you cant slide the tool in how are you gunna slide a threaded shaft in , then green slim the shock shaft and insert , most of the time i use after market silicone o-rings , stock are ok , hope this helps , ray
11-24-2007, 08:36 PM
#11
its just weird cause i cant snap the part in place without having the o ring get cut in half. I green slime everything but it still gets cut. its the weirdest thing
11-25-2007, 12:15 AM
#12
That has happened to me a few times too. I have never used green slime, just shock oil.
Put all of the pieces on the shock tool and put a couple of drops of oil on the o-rings and other parts. Keep the bottom end of the tool on the table and place your shock body over the tool untill it seats in place and you can see the tool coming out of the shock shaft hole. Press down firmly untill you hear the Click and see the tool sticking out further than it orgionally was.
Thats it. Just be patient, work slowly, and dont be afraid of using too much oil or slime.
Put all of the pieces on the shock tool and put a couple of drops of oil on the o-rings and other parts. Keep the bottom end of the tool on the table and place your shock body over the tool untill it seats in place and you can see the tool coming out of the shock shaft hole. Press down firmly untill you hear the Click and see the tool sticking out further than it orgionally was.
Thats it. Just be patient, work slowly, and dont be afraid of using too much oil or slime.
11-25-2007, 12:25 AM
#13
I had trouble the first time I built the AE shocks, mainly because I rushed it.
Take your time. Use green slime on all the internals, works far better than the shock oil. Use fine sand paper to smooth down all the burs on the spaces and pistons.
As for the bleeding I still have a little trouble, its just messy. I also found that using the tools to tighten the shock caps caused bleeding as it destroys the rubber seal, just hand tighten them and the seal will do its job.
The diff is cake. Set it as it says in the manual and its perfect.
Take your time. Use green slime on all the internals, works far better than the shock oil. Use fine sand paper to smooth down all the burs on the spaces and pistons.
As for the bleeding I still have a little trouble, its just messy. I also found that using the tools to tighten the shock caps caused bleeding as it destroys the rubber seal, just hand tighten them and the seal will do its job.
The diff is cake. Set it as it says in the manual and its perfect.
11-25-2007, 05:56 AM
#14
Yeah, the associated diffs are amazing and very easy to build. My first kit was the b4 and the first time I built the diff it was super smooth, take your time with the diff too and make sure that you read all the steps. My first and only diff is over a year old and still smooth!!!
