Alrighty, so I've been home for the past few days and able to borrow Chazz's camera... Here's some pretty detailed pics on how I put LiPo in my X - 5, along with some other stuff at the end.
Please, PLEASE excuse the dirty car. It needs a complete rebuild/cleaning quite a lot, and I just haven't been able to get around to it. I figured the family would like pics of a dirty car rather than no pics and a clean car... even though I wish it was clean
I plan on putting this on the tech page of 4wdrc pretty soon; its easier to write a post for now. Here goes:
1. My car.
2. Body off top shot. You get the idea of how it fits in pretty quickly.
3. A little closer shot. You can see where some lead weight has fallen off and the shoo-goo is still there...
4. Battery Out. I've been running a soft-case LiPo, and so wanted to protect it from things poking through the battery slots. The lexan was just from the front part of an X - 5 wing. I guess I didn't lose the weight after all!
5. Here you can see how I dremeled on the forward battery post mount and servo post mounts in the chassis. The battery post was then mounted forward and spaced up some. I located the post spot by laying the battery in the car and then putting it where it looked good, not much science to it.
6. Here's the back of the battery area, very similar. Just a touch with the dremel here and there and everything fit well.
7. The battery strap. I made mine out of some extra Carbon Fiber that Brandon Rhode actually had at the CRCRC race (when I put the Lipo's in). It was just a scrap piece of CF anyways, I just took the dremel to it and had a strap in about 5 minutes. Make sure the front of the strap doesn't rub on the body, if you're particular about it.
8. The SMC 5000 soft-case lipo's I've been running. This has been in my X - 5 since January, running nearly every weekend. I have one of these in all my cars; they provide just super power, and I've not had a problem with the soft-case yet. I'll be putting the new 4000 hard-cases in in the near future to comply with ROAR rules. The battery does rub a small bit on the servo, so I put some tape on the end just to help protect it.
9. Here's the other side of the car, showing how my electronics are mounted. The capacitor is glued down, as it likes to pop off in hard landings. There's a piece of lexan glued over the two cell slots, and the GTB is on top of that.
10. Other fun stuff: This pic shows my belt roller in front of the drive pulley. The roller's shaft is actually a XX4 CVD front axle, with the round part cut off. The axle is the perfect diameter for a drive bearing, of course, and the little lip holds it on. The two "hat" spacers are just rear axle spacers (That go between the bearings and the drive pin). I just drilled the hole in the chassis by eye and adjusted it (file in or out as needed) as needed. The large "hat" spacers cover up the slightly-oblong hole, and clamp the whole thing tight on the chassis with a regular wheel nut on the end. Probably the hardest thing about doing this is you have to shave down one of the flanges on the drive pulley - just take your time with this and it'll come out fine.
11. Picture of my double-idler pulley set-up. I just use two regular small idler pulleys (as opposed to the larger HD idler pulley that some use), and a XXXS belt. Look at the dirt! That's accumulated over the last six months or so; like I said, this car really needs a rebuild.
Hope that satisfies! Let me know if you have any questions; I'm happy to provide the best answers I can.